Proportioning Valve

I assume you're going off this for instructions: http://www.panteraplace.com/page199.htm

I did mine several years ago using that info, and it worked fine. It doesn't mention any ring, and I don't recall finding anything different from that. Sorry my memory is no fresher.

Follow this link for dis-assembly instructions and a rebuild kit.
Web Link for instructions/rebuild kit

Jag, you're going through a lot of trouble to use the non-adjustable prop-valve as a large, heavy and rather ugly hard-line junction block, when you could set the whole thing on a shelf, cut the ISO flares off the lines and re-flare to SAE for a U.S 3-way fitting, for about $10 total. If you've changed tire sizes appreciably from stock, a manually-adjustable prop-valve may be needed to re-balance the braking.

MarsRed, Jake, Bosswrench:
Thanks for the quick response. I was following the PanteraPlace article, I am having a hard time driving the piston assembly out. As you state, Bosswrench, I'm sure getting a 3-way adjustable valve is probably the way to go, I was just leaning towards the nostalgia look. As for wheels & tires, I just ordered 17" Campy's with the 225/45 & 335/35. Will look meaner than it really is - basically running stock drivetrain.

quote:

Originally posted by Bosswrench:
If you've changed tire sizes appreciably from stock, a manually-adjustable prop-valve may be needed to re-balance the braking.

Just be aware that an adjustable proportioning valve is normally installed in the rear circuit, not the front like the stock one.

Julian

Locking up the front is not normally the issue. Locking the rears first makes the rear come around and spin the car.
All you can do in the front is have even pressure to both calipers.
If you do and all other components are equal, that's all you can do.
I suppose it is possible that if you can't eliminate that, it is occurring at a point where you are just out driving the car?