Pulling the transaxle need advise.

I found a speed shop that makes clutches. They tested my pressure plate and sold me a disc. What is the torque for the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel? I have the clutch in place and snugged up, but I want to get the torque wrench on it.

Any advice on getting the shaft to go back into the fly wheel. I cannot seem to get things lined up. It looks like the bell housing is lined up with the engine, and with a flashlight it appears that the shaft is centered but it wont slide in. How hard can you bump the clutch disc before it will move out of position?

If you did not use a clutch alignment tool, it may never go back in. The tool aligns the clutch disc to the bushing in the flywheel. The pressure plate is then bolted to the flywheel. After that you can attempt to mate the transmission to the motor.

I used the alignment tool.

You may have to rotate the input shaft slightly to align the splines.

John

That's a good Idea. I was thinking about trying that. Is there any chance that I could have moved the clutch disc as I shifted the trans around trying to get the shaft through the disc?

quote:

Is there any chance that I could have moved the clutch disc as I shifted the trans around trying to get the shaft through the disc?

If the pressure plate mounting bolts were tight, it is highly unlikely.

John

It's more likely that pilot bushing moved if anything.

I drove the car for the first time today. The engine is smoking from the left exhaust head. I will have to check that out tomorrow. Also you guys should have warned me not to over torque the nuts that hold the trans mounts to the trans. I broke a stud. Luckily it broke off outside the mount. I will deal with it next time I have to pull the trans.

I'm only kidding about you warning me, but I was surprised that it broke I had the torque wrench set at 50 lbs-ft.

Icole... SOME of the studs in the zf do not bottom out in the case. I broke one off the rear of mine and tried to drill it for an easy-out. The broken stud spun and fell inside! I had to pull the trans and shake it upside down... it finally fell out! ALSO, somtimes a stud can be inserted too far into the case and hit internal parts. Don't let that happen to you. Congrats on getting her running.. Bill 1362

Thanks turns out there was some grease or something on the exhaust headers. It burned itself off in the first few miles of driving.

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
Icole... SOME of the studs in the zf do not bottom out in the case. I broke one off the rear of mine and tried to drill it for an easy-out. The broken stud spun and fell inside! I had to pull the trans and shake it upside down... it finally fell out! ALSO, somtimes a stud can be inserted too far into the case and hit internal parts. Don't let that happen to you. Congrats on getting her running.. Bill 1362

...Bill, I realize this is too late to help You; But for anyone else about to face this Very Same Problem...Use a 'LEFT-Hand' DrillBit in a 'Reversed' DrillMotor! When the Drill Bites into the Stud it will Unscrew OUT!...

I replaced the broken stud tonight, and Got the clutch adjusted right. Tomorrow I have to look at the belts.
The stud came out with a visegrip, and no heating required. The new stud went in with my fingers, and did bottom. Now I won't have to worry about breaking my trans-axle mount. The auto store didn't have a new lock nut, so I got a regular nut and used red loctite. I put the non lock washer on the back, so I can take it off without jacking the trans up, but I am wondering if that is necessary. Will red loctite hold a non locknut onto the stud? I guess it's no big deal. I drove a few hundred miles with only 2 nuts on the mount.