Anyone with experience with the QuckJack portable lift?

 https://www.quickjack.com/

Given that the typical Pantera jack points, at least to get the whole car off the ground, don’t run along the side rails, not sure if it would work as well.  My jack points are the front corners of the frame where the jack hole is, but I use the center of the three motor mount bolts as the rear jack stand location.  I suppose you could angle this one in towards the center of the car to do that, but not sure if that would be safe or stable.

I checked the specs on the SLX model, and with a max spread of 60", it would reach from the front jack point to the center of the motor mount.  Alternatively, I suppose you could put it down the sides of the car using the front and rear jack points, and have a single jack stand under the center of the rear frame rail as a stabilizer, since the side rear jack point is still pretty far forward and not far aft of the CG.

$999 at Costco seems a heck of a deal when QuickJack want's $1365 for it.

Thoughts?  I don’t have room for a full car lift or two post portable. 

Thanks

Mike Thomas

Pres., Panteras Northwest

206-795-3302

Yellow ’74 #6328

www.panterasnorthwest.com

 

Original Post

Do an all forum search for lifts and you will find lots of discussion.  I posted in one of these in the last couple of years what I do.  There are good discussions of where to jack the car so that the body isn't damaged.

I have a pair of aluminum stands with long removable ramps that I got from I believe Discount Ramps.  I usually drive the front of the car (mine has an air dam-no clearance problems) up on these stands although I can drive the rear up.  I also have two long low hydraulic floor jacks that I got at Harbor Freight.  I have a couple of 2x6 boards that are cut to fit under the lower a arms and spread the load from the hydraulic  jack pads.  I jack up both jacks at the rear together until I can get a set of stands under the rear tires.  Set it down, remove the aluminum ramps to the front stands and you have total access to underneath the car. 

If you want to take off a wheel and work on brakes then just use the floor jacks and boards under the lower a arms.  I don't think my method stresses the body like using jacking points.  Be sure to read all the discussions about the damage that can be done using wrong jacking points.  I didn't spend over $500 on the aluminum ramp stands and hydraulic jacks.

I own one, and they work well. Hitting the jacking point's is not a problem, as the rubber lifting blocks slide around, so you can hit the points right on. It's a lot better than jacking which twists the body. It does take some time to get it positioned though, so it's not good for a quick wheel removal, but once there it's great for up and down work. The only thing to be careful of is if you don't have it positioned correctly and lift the car you can tip the car backwards with one hand pretty easily, so lift a few inches, test for stability, and then go. Good demonstration of just how weight distribution ain't that good on a Pantera. 

For the money a good investment.

 

 

I also own one and agree with what RRS1 has said.  The pantera rear jack points require the larger rubber blocks that come with the lift.  I ALWAYS place jack stands under the rear diff support after raising the car with the quickjack, because of the back heaviness of the car.  I've had mine a couple of years and am really satisfied.  I've used it on my BMW's and my my son's Mazdaspeed 3 and VW GTI without issue and have recently used it for a tire rotation on our Tesla Model 3

Good lift if you don't have room or budget for a full height lift.

Regards,

Dennis

I have a 6000lb scissor lift that I picked up for a steal on Craigslist, it has paid for itself many times over IMO and provides good access at a nice height. I use it extensively for the formula car pre/post race tear downs, but also other projects. It is heavy and movable around the garage, but f I wanted a lift to throw in the trailer and take to the race track I'd consider the Quickjack. For me that sums it up, the Quikcjack is more portable, a scissor lift provides more access and height, albeit not quite as much as installing a 2 post lift.

rrs1 posted:

I own one, and they work well. Hitting the jacking point's is not a problem, as the rubber lifting blocks slide around, so you can hit the points right on. It's a lot better than jacking which twists the body. It does take some time to get it positioned though, so it's not good for a quick wheel removal, but once there it's great for up and down work. The only thing to be careful of is if you don't have it positioned correctly and lift the car you can tip the car backwards with one hand pretty easily, so lift a few inches, test for stability, and then go. Good demonstration of just how weight distribution ain't that good on a Pantera. 

For the money a good investment.

 

 

Was it the 5000 lb. model that you purchased?

Yes, the 5000 LB version. Balance has not been a problem as I reversed he direction of the jacks (turned them around so the car lifts forward instead of backward, just make sure the lock bars are on the outside. I then used two thick blocks on end at the rear side jack point and one just behind, then a short block laid flat at the front jack point. With the two blocks at the back, one aft of the jack point, I’ve had no tipping issues. Getting the air cylinders to and holding the required 50 LBS pressure is a bugger but I’ve really enjoyed using it and feel much safer with this. For safety, I put jackstands under the front rail of the jack after it was up, and a pair under the frame rails at the back. I can now work under the car on a creeper!



Mike Thomas

Pres., Panteras Northwest

206-795-3302

Yellow ’74 #6328

<http://www.panterasnorthwest.com/> www.panterasnorthwest.com
fireandisis posted:

Anyone with experience with the QuckJack portable lift?

 https://www.quickjack.com/

Given that the typical Pantera jack points, at least to get the whole car off the ground, don’t run along the side rails, not sure if it would work as well.  My jack points are the front corners of the frame where the jack hole is, but I use the center of the three motor mount bolts as the rear jack stand location.  I suppose you could angle this one in towards the center of the car to do that, but not sure if that would be safe or stable.

I checked the specs on the SLX model, and with a max spread of 60", it would reach from the front jack point to the center of the motor mount.  Alternatively, I suppose you could put it down the sides of the car using the front and rear jack points, and have a single jack stand under the center of the rear frame rail as a stabilizer, since the side rear jack point is still pretty far forward and not far aft of the CG.

$999 at Costco seems a heck of a deal when QuickJack want's $1365 for it.

Thoughts?  I don’t have room for a full car lift or two post portable. 

Thanks

Mike Thomas

Pres., Panteras Northwest

206-795-3302

Yellow ’74 #6328

www.panterasnorthwest.com

 

Thanks Mike.I just ordered from Costco

Now $1099

Still cheaper than Quickjack by a mile.

To amend my earlier reply, you can’t use the motor mount as a lift point with the QJ if you’re using the front jack points at the other end. It’s critical that the two jack units are parallel, so turn them around and go left for right per the manual (doesn’t matter so long as the lock bars are on the outside) so you can put one short jacking block under the front jackpoint, then at the back, take two of the thick blocks on each side, stand them on end one at the rear jack point, the other just behind and slightly inward (see attached pic, be careful not to catch the flange on the inner edge of the frame as it turns in towards the motor mount). That will allow the car to lift level, and with the second rear block aft of the jack point, I didn’t have any tipping issues. Safety jackstands can be put under the front end of the QJ and under the rear frame rails as far aft as possible.

Good luck, Mike

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IMG_0057

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Some pics and more comments for reference.

 It’s critical that the two jack units are parallel, so turn them around and go left for right per the manual (doesn’t matter so long as the lock bars are on the outside) so you can put one short jacking block under the front jackpoint, then at the back, take two of the thick blocks on each side, stand them on end one at the rear jack point, the other just behind and slightly inward (see attached pic, be careful not to catch the flange on the inner edge of the frame as it turns in towards the motor mount). That will allow the car to lift level, and with the second rear block aft of the jack point, I didn’t have any tipping issues. Safety jackstands can be put under the front end of the QJ and under the rear frame rails as far aft as possible.

IMG_0056

IMG_0057

IMG_0055

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