Rear brakes

OK I looked at the master parts catalog. The original caliper was held on by 2 bolts. Does anyone know an inexpensive bolt on replacement for the rear brakes?

You are missing a bolt or the bracket is wrong if it only has one bolt hole.

quote:

Originally posted by icole:
OK I looked at the master parts catalog. The original caliper was held on by 2 bolts. Does anyone know an inexpensive bolt on replacement for the rear brakes?

Sounds like all you need a proper bracket, not a complete replacement. Can you post a photo of the bracket you have?

Do you know who supplied the Wilwood brakes? Is there only one bolt being used on both sides? What are the dimensions on the existing bolt?

So the caliper was rubbing the brake disc, or my dad ground some of the caliper away for clearance. The bolt that goes through the original mount and the caliper is too close to the axle. I removed the calipers, and switched the spacers to from left to right. Now the trailing edge is gently touching the outside of the brake. Now applying the brakes should pull the caliper away from the disc. The bracket was aluminum, and I am thinking that steel would be better. The brakes still make a lot of noise when I get on them hard, but I have not been able to leave mi 1/8 mile driveway, because I have both of my toddlers, and I have to take them with me. Maybe when my wife gives me some time I can do some more driving.

I am still interested in looking into a set of all 4 brakes that will fit under the stock wheels. I have the original wheels, but my discs are too big for them.

My Wilwoods are from Dennis Quella. The calipers are held on with (2) 7/16-20, 1.75" long. grade 8 bolts and flat and lock washers. There is also a spacer between the caliper and mounting bracket with my setup. Yours might be different. If you look at the setup for your remaining bolt you will know what to do.

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by icole:
I am still interested in looking into a set of all 4 brakes that will fit under the stock wheels. I have the original wheels, but my discs are too big for them.

We offer a very inexpensive brake kit for stock wheels that offer big 12" drilled, slotted, and vented rotors front and back, hats that mount inboard of the hub just like stock so it won't affect your offset, and 4 piston calipers all around. No proportioning valve needed. This includes caliper brackets and all mounting hardware. Our caliper brackets utilize metric Grade 12.9 bolts which equates to a stronger bolt grade than Grade 8.

This is the most inexpensive kit with the highest performance. We sell this kit for $1995.

http://blog.saccrestorations.n...rformance-brake-kit/

Good to know. When I have $2k to spend on the car, I will make the change.

What rotors are you using? If you want, we can put together a more inexpensive kit all around or just for the back, custom for you, that utilizes stock rotors and 4-piston calipers.

icole, how many holes are there in each rear caliper adapter bracket? Obviously, there should be four; two unthreaded holes, to bolt the bracket to the upright and two threaded holes, to bolt the caliper to the bracket. If one of these holes (or bolts) is missing, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR! Something is VERY wrong. If you don't know much about brakes, find someone who does, to help you.

What part # are the calipers and rotors ? I made these small brackets to fit my Wilwoods.

R

and the fronts

quote:

Originally posted by David_Nunn:
icole, how many holes are there in each rear caliper adapter bracket? Obviously, there should be four; two unthreaded holes, to bolt the bracket to the upright and two threaded holes, to bolt the caliper to the bracket. If one of these holes (or bolts) is missing, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR! Something is VERY wrong. If you don't know much about brakes, find someone who does, to help you.

Although this is the first car that I have done this much work on I am a mechanical engineer. My dad fitted the brakes, and they are definitly not pantera specific. THe front are sound, but the rear bracket has 3 holes not 4. It has on threaded hole and two non threaded. It uses one long bolt through the bracket to hold the caliper in place directly to the original mounting hole, and the other side of the caliper is helt to the bracket. The bracket is held in place by a third bolt. It is strong enough, but the front low side of the caliper had 1mm clearance with the disc, and that was after the caliper was ground down about 1mm. It was fine for light braking, but under hard braking there was enough flex that the caliper still hit the disc. I have switched the left mounting bracket to the right and vise versa. Now the caliper sits an inch lower toward the ground, and the trailing edge has the clearance issue. right now it is touching, so I am going to grind that edge 1mm like my dad did. The bolt pattern on the new caliper is to small to fabricate a bracket with 4 wholes as you have described. Now when I brake hard the caliper will flex away from the disc instead of into it. The front calipers are held on by a 4 whole bracket. If my solution doesn't work, then I will need new calipers anyway, and in an emergency I can stop with E-brake and front brakes only. I'm not racing or canyon carving. I'm putting around suburbia.

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
What part # are the calipers and rotors ? I made these small brackets to fit my Wilwoods.

R

These look like they would fit my rears. Are the Allen heads completely flush?

Icole, putting around or not, there are a couple of axioms in self preservation that hold true in racing and street driving. Make sure accelerator linkage and brakes are in good working order. I’m sure the accelerator advice is obvious to you but it’s not just about having brakes when you want them; it’s also about not having brakes when you don’t won’t them and also brakes that don’t apply stopping to just one corner.

If it let's go at the wrong time, you may find yourself in the opposite lane staring at an oncoming car.

If you have a brake bracket that can allow the caliper to rotate and hit the rotor, it is unsafe; plain and simple. Front/back, doesn’t matter. -Fix it.

Might be helpful if you posted a picture of the caliper bracket.

Best,
K

icole, the quickest, easiest and least expensive way to fix your problem would be to buy a set of rear caliper mounting brackets (and hardware) from Dennis Quella. Just tell him what size rear rotors you have and which Wilwood calipers you have.

Is that Dennis with the pictures?
Here is the rear caliper. It is a 4 pot wilwood superlight II, and I have 12" rotors. The racket is 3/4 inch thick. As you can see the disk was binding on the caliper, because of the caliper sharing a bolt with the bracket. The wilwood mounting wholes are 3.5" apart.

Dennis Quella, Pantera Performance Center in Castle Rock, CO., Ph. (303) 660-9897. The reason I specifically mentioned Dennis is that he will sell brackets only, whereas some vendors will only sell complete kits. He also has brackets for a number of different rotor size and caliper combinations, so it's likely he'll have exactly what you need. If there's another vendor you like dealing with, it wouldn't hurt to try them first. I've seen Marino Perna's (Pantera East, (727) 381-1151) brackets and they're a work of art and likely stronger than Dennis' brackets because they're made from steel rather than aluminum; however, I don't believe Marino will sell brackets separately.

Panteras by Wilkinson has a willwood system that fits under the stock wheels , give them a call for the price.

I posted a picture and states on my rear caliper and mount on the last post I made. I am very sorry that I do not know how to better scale the pictures. I definitely want to buy the rear brackets. I will call Dennis tomorrow. The rears are 4 piston wilwood superlight II on 12 inch rotors 1.25inch thick. The spacing between the mounting bolts on the caliper is 3.5 inches. The mounting bracket is 3/4 inch thick. The front are 4 piston wilwood outlaw calipers on 12" rotors. The brackets my dad made look good, and the brakes position is good.

Close up of rear mounting bracket. This is the one I need to replace.

Here are a couple of pictures of the rear brakes we sell.

http://saccrestorationsblog.fi.../2011/07/photo-3.jpg

That is a 12.19 rotor and will fit under stock wheels. It uses a 4 piston setup and was engineered using CAD for a perfect fit!

We also Engineered a bracket so you can use Wilwood 4 piston Calipers on stock rotors for those on a budget.
http://saccrestorationsblog.fi...2011/07/photo-31.jpg

We also will sell piece parts like other vendors or complete kits. Whatever the customer wants.

These are your brakes so a properly engineered bracket is the key. Data required to make a bracket is rotor size, EXACTLY... Rotor Width... and Hat Dimensions. Oh, and Caliper dimensions.

Regards, Scott

We also Engineered a bracket so you can use Wilwood 4 piston Calipers on stock rotors for those on a budget.

The rear brackets in your performance kit look like the right ones. are they .75" thick? I have 12.2 inch rotors. It was slightly more than 6 inches to the center of the axle. Those wilwood calipers also look like mine. I would assume that if your brackets are .75 inch thick that they will work. If I measure those dimensions how long till you can ship?, and how much for the rear brackets with bolts?

Hi icole,

Our 12inch kit actually uses 12.19 inch rotors so our brackets would work great for your car. Our brackets are 1/2 thick steel so we would also provide you with a 1/4 spacer to get you the 3/4 inch thickness you need.

You are looking at $199.95 for 2 brackets (Powder-coated Red or Black, 2 spacers, 4 Grade-8 Caliper mounting bolts, 4 Grade-12.9 Bracket mounting bolts, 8 hardened washers and safety wire for the bolts as we use Allen heads bolts. These brackets were CAD designed.

Your looking at about 1 week to ship everything once ordered.

Take care, Scott

" These look like they would fit my rears. Are the Allen heads completely flush?"

Yes I'm using 12.19 x .81 rotors in the rear so my bracket is .35 inches thick and I'm using a brass shim to bring it within range.

The brackets I make are steel and yes those are allen head bolts countersunk flush ... they just miss the edge of the threaded bolt. We wanted to keep the caliper behind the rotor to reduce the amount of road debris to enter the brake pad.

I also designed my system around 3 wilwood masters side by side for front, rear and clutch with a wilwood pedal set up.

Ron

The geometry of my front brackets is correct, and I was wondering if I should replace them anyway, since they are aluminum, and you guys all use steel. It turns out that Aluminum is quite strong. IN fact some low grade steel has lower shear and tensile strength. The down side is that aluminum has a small margin between deformation and total failure. Since my brackets are .75 inch thick, I am sure that any disadvantage to aluminum is offset by the added thickness.

Thanks for all of the help. I am getting my brackets from Dennis.