#2636
I am rebuilding OE rear calipers and wondered if the area in the picture is under pressure and a potential leak? (Parking brake pivot pin ) I have searched the forum and other sources but can't find much information
If so has anyone replaced the seals in this area? All the caliper parts check out well, and would like to avoid any avoidable surprises. Thanks in advance. JerrySr
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Yes there is.
You will have to remove the e brake slack adjuster from the puck to access an o ring seal hidden inside. That takes using a socket or similar to compress the pressed steel 'cage' and release pressure on the retainer circlip. The bevels on the ends of the circlip are tough get a bite on to pry free. Two mini screwdrivers needed. One keeps the circlip from rotating, the other digs at the end of the clip.
Once you get the circlip out, DO NOT twist the adjuster to free it from the puck, pull it straight out or you will break an un-replaceable steel tang that is pressed into the puck.
After that, a little plunger will come out which will allow you to remove the actuating lever and related bits.
Good luck.
Great detailed explanation, makes sense I've had other calipers pistons apart. Is there a source for that seal or o-ring?
JerrySr
-013 EPDM 'o' ring
best rebuild kits I've found are Centric 143.10000. Rubber parts made in UK, round clips fit well.
$10 a side on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centr...9:g:q0MAAOxyRhBS9Mkg
Not sure what brand kit I purchased (eBay) They rubber parts are good and fit well but the rings leave a lot to be desired. All but 1 original flat ring was reusable front and rear ( I like originals much better anyways) In order to use the 1 ring from the kit I had to trim it down quite a bit ( ends overlapped) and add a little tension and I. Still not crazy about the fit.
I am not familiar with the size dash 013 or - 013. I found them if they are "O-Ring-Dash-013-EPDM-0-07". For only a couple bucks I ordered them.
If you see a request for a couple rear pistons from me, you'll know how assembly went. Lol. In for a penny, in for a pound
When I did mine a few months ago I noted that the front caliper attach bolts were short. Lacked thread engagement so I installed longer bolts.
Yes, the new rubber boot retaining rings lack spring tension. Probably Chineese mush metal so I reused the old ones. I carefully glued the boots in place before installing the retaining rings. Be careful of the nylon slide. They get brittle with time so I replaced them.
Bleeding was a pain until I bought Motive Products power Bleeder. It made for a first round KO. It takes a high flow rate to purge trapped bubbles. The fluid can harm some paint so be careful. Get extra shims so you can center the caliper to discs. The alignment on mine was poor.
In your photo, your caliper pistons are still mated. Rotate one of them 45 degrees and they should separate. then you will see the slack adjuster and related on the indirect piston (the one with the e brake actuator).
I still use a mity-vac hand pump and a follow up with a friend working the pedal to bleed, works every time.
Just wrap the bleeder screws with some teflon tape to keep air from getting sucked in past the threads.
Thanks Larry. The bullet missed me,. The O-ring was shot! Waiting on Orings. I can see how the tab could snap off easily.
I got there, don't know if I will get back thou lol Pretty simple to take apart if corrosion isn't too bad and your gentle. Hopefully this thread will help someone else and make it easier to locate the info.
JerrySr
Interesting find, same car two different parking brake Pistons I would assume one is an older style old stock. In one model the parking brake piston spring is retained by the Piston head on one end and a circlip on the other the other style when you remove the first clip remove the cage the spring comes off. Everything else is virtually identical
I have found three variations of these. I believe yours are early Ford Pantera and the other is later; post Ford Pantera or sourced from one or another Peugeot as a replacement.
There is an intermediate version I have found in later Ford cars that uses a clip (clip and spring are not on adjuster in middle) to keep the slack adjuster from turning like the early, but is the same diameter as the late version that uses an internal tab to control the rotation.
If the sealing surface fails, like in photo two, that's it. I have not found replacements. Probably one of the EU guys would have better luck
Brake Update;. After aquireing the correct Orings (thank you Larry). My brakes are completed (along with the upright bearings bushings and all 4 corners suspension.
All of your instructions were priceless. Especially concerning disassembly and not twisting the Piston mechanism due to the small tab, glueing the boots ( forgot what a pain they were)
Thank you for all of your help.
Now just waiting for the body to bolt them to.
Jerry Sr
