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after finding parts missing from one of my hubs a while ago I am now rebuilding them, the front bearing retaining plate held in by 4 countersunk screws was missing if anyone remembers, I was lucky not to have an accident.

I have carried out the bearing modification and fitted wider inner bearings and had the spacer tubes shortened, the new bearings are all sealed for life units, my question is, do I have to fit the old tin dust covers that fit on the outside of the inner and outer bearings or will they be OK without them? thanks Pete.
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Peter, most ball bearings used in Pantera rear uprights are weathersealed either with interlocking steel shields or with poly shields to make them weather-tight if not water-proof. Those tin extras don't do much to improve this. If the bearings that you're using are shielded, you really don't need the extras. On the outside, using them might force a slightly deeper bore for the bearing so the 4-screw retainer fits flush against the new bearing. Incidentally, pressing out on the stub-axle to remove it often bows the retainer into a shallow cone and it then doesn't fit flat against the bearing. So get a nice big hammer and flatten any retainer you buy if it looks bowed. The flathead retaining screws are std metric and now there are gr-8 flathead allens available. U.S Pantera vendors have used OEM retainers & new screws in stock. Some use LOck-tite on the 4 screws but that may be overkill; when torqued, they seldom loosen up.

BTW, the outer bearing locates against a step in the upright bore and the retainer holds it firmly in place. The inner bearing floats according to the length of the sleeve between the inner & outer bearings, neither of which were pressed into the upright. So as you say, without that 4-screw steel retainer, the entire outer stub-axle could have begun moving in & out of the upright! In a car with the speed and cornering capability of a Pantera, leaving that little 4-bolt retainer out verges on criminal neglect! You are one lucky boy!
Thats just what I wanted to hear, I had the tin caps for one of the hubs but not the other side, I have ordered them and they will within a week or two fly over to the UK, but by then I can have the rear suspension back in place.
By the way I fitted the bearing plate (New) with
4 new countersunk screws and gave them an extra grunt with a spanner around the screwdriver, as you say I don't think they will come loose.

Smashing to get such a quick reply, I can set to in the garage in the morning now, thanks very much for your help.
With rear upright screws and the door-hinge & door latch screws, I use a mid-'60s hand impact driver meant for use on Japanese motorcycles (with a 1/4" drive phillips bit) and a hammer. The grade-nothing japanese screws would instantly round out the drive crosses with std screwdrivers or air/electric drivers; the only hope of getting them out in useable condition was the hand impact driver. In the case of the mentioned screws in a Pantera, they are the ones you really DON'T want to come loose! Hand-operated all-steel impact drivers identical to my old one are cheaply available.

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