That's what I use. Professional upholsterers use brush on liquid glue but I think 3M 90 spray is mush easier. If you have any edges that peel up maybe try 3M Weather strip adhesive. It really holds well and works well for spot fixes.
Scrub scrub scrub the back side of the hd/liner. Attach thin closed cell foam to the hd/liner and let it set up. Do not glue hd/liner directly to roof. 3M 90 will work find, allow it to set up 30 seconds or a minute before attaching foam or to roof.
Plan B: We also sometimes use a thin magnetic sheet 3X5 it's a lot less work. Glue hd/liner w/foam to the magnet, set the magnet in place it'll never come down on it's own, yet you can remove it quickly anytime. The gain? You can move it around to get the best position. With 3M once you stick it and spread it out you'll come up an inch or three short on one side, or front/back.
I used 3M 08090 spray adhesive. It's a heavy duty glue designed for exterior vinyl tops. "Normal" headliner glue will not hold up under the heat since the headliner is glued directly to the underside of the roof panel which experiences direct sun (and extreme heat). Countless people on the DeTomaso mail list can tell you about their re-glued headliners falling after one Summer of driving. 3M Super Trim Adhesive 8090 is available from numerous online sources, as well as your local Napa Auto Parts store.
I glued my original headliner back onto a very thin sheet of flexible plastic cut to the correct dimensions. The flex in the plastic forces it up onto the roof surface. The trim pieces hold it securely in place. Essentially impossible to re-glue that thing on upside down. Been there 30 years now.
I used Weldwood brush on contact cement for the front trunk felt. Coat the metal surfaces really well and get just enough on the felt (do not let it saturate through). Once dry and tacky, engage the piece. Shit will never come off.
Fyi. If I had it to do over, I would have layed sound proof mat first to flatten out the ridges and drain divot (smoother look), also overlapped a little where the top edge of the trunk seal goes. Would make it much easier to install the seal without rolling the felt
I got this stuff as recommended by PanteraDoug for my rear trunk bucket.
Looks and feels like good material for the job, and it cost me about $16 for 27 ft.² at Home Depot (listed as a moving blanket).
I bought the same stuff. I found it is a very close match (if not identical) to the original factory material. Hopefully its a little more durable than the original factory felt. In any case, it will look great once installed!
I plan to use 3M 8090 adhesive to glue it in. It's a heavy duty glue designed for automotive exterior vinyl tops and is designed for the extreme heat experienced by a vinyl top glued to a car's roof sitting in direct sunlight all day every day, and should be more than capable of withstanding the heat that might be found in the front or rear trunks. This is also the same adhesive recommended to re-glue the factory headliner to the roof of your Pantera. But be aware, once you set the felt in place, there's no opportunity to pull it back up and reposition it.
...just did the headliner and trunk for the Mangusta, the headliner went in with 4 hands and a few iterations of trial fitting the 'cushion'...The lessons learned on the felt;
- prepare lots of material, esp plenty of sharp razors, a damn good pair of scissors, about 6 cans of adhesive, and more fabric than expected. I used most of 4 yards (x 54 inches wide, I think).
- cut the pieces to maybe even 20% bigger than you know it needs. So much easier to trim the overlap back instead of finding you have a 3/8" gap you cannot fill...
- start with the most difficult place, don't expect to start from one side and go to the next. For the Mangusta, of course the felt was put in before the front suspension or brake box, etc--But the practical place to start is at the front of the shock mounting bolt (and then stretch everything from there). Unless you suspend the front of the car and remove the bolt, the process I used was to inch a little cloth where the head of the bolt lies and make a small snip to create small hole...snug the hole over the bolt hole, start with some glue there...
- and then proceed at a snails pace of glue and waiting...and then, every move should focus progressively at every next 'tight' spot, and less on the space in between...meaning, the hardest part is avoiding the 'air gaps' at the sharp turns, and even with a rather conformable felt it is just better to nail the apex of the turns first and then gently padding down the flats...
- on the Mangusta, the shock mounting nut (towards the rear) should be removed, and then the bolt wound forward (avoiding working around the big displacement of the nut...). But also, the area behind the shock towers is far less visible.
- protect everything from the glue--not just the paint but also the 'outside' of the felt as you lay it. I used an old sheet and think twice before pulling the glue trigger...
After buying 3 different types of wool/felt, I went with the simple Aetna Felt style #2228 (black) that I had bought before I got occupied with considering a type of salt and pepper Haargarn...at ~1.7mm thick, its close to the original felt. A very thick felt is wrong for the Goose. And yes, Mike showed me the simple Home Depot fabric--he is right, it looks pretty damn close. I don't know if it has the same stretchability as felt, but the appearance doesn't look at all wrong...
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .