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Hey all:  Reaching out to the engine brain trust on the forum regarding your recommendations on the build of a 289/302-based SBF for my new GT40.  I am looking for about 350 to no more than 400hp on a single carb setup.  Feedback on crate engine builders such as Prestige, Blueprint and ATK welcomed.  SoCal local build a plus (I am in San Diego and going to meet with JBA to discuss with them).  Goal is a strictly street motor designed to start and drive and cruise.  Nothing exotic, no race track setup - simple and less complicated than most builds of these you see.  Will be running through a SAFIR  dual clutch/flywheel to an RBT or GTT 5 speed ZF.  

Question on Flywheel balance since I am writing this, standard flywheel from SAFIR is zero balanced, but they have 28 and 50 oz-in.  Seems like all the SBF as well as 351C are 28 or 50.  Anyone familiar with internally balanced rotating assemblies with zero balance flywheels.

thanks much for your feedback

Lee

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Ford Racing had/has a nice crate engine that answers your requirements or interests.

347 SB with 340hp.

It doesn't matter if you use a 28 or a 50 balance as long as you stay in the same system.

A zero balance engine is really for a race engine that is going to need internal parts changed often and because of the nature of the race schedule and rebalancing every change to zero again makes every part a simpler change.

Normally for a street engine you would not want or need a zero balanced engine. You don't want it.

Last edited by panteradoug

I didn’t like the 347 engines because the oil rings go thru the wrist pin bore on the piston… just rubs me the wrong way!
I went with the 331 version (rings NOT through the wrist pin) forged pistons forged crank, H-beam connecting rods, AFR heads, hydraulic, roller, cam and lifters , MSD ignition and edelbrock 650 (???) carb, Airgap . (can’t remember exactly the horsepower, but it was in the 400 range)
CNC Motorsports build that engine for me they broke it in in the dyno!
it was a very nice rev happy engine together with the T5 with A1 gears - the 66 Mustang  was very let’s say - lively😜

Quality work…No problems… no leaks!

Last edited by LeMans850i
@LeMans850i posted:

I didn’t like the 347 engines because the oil rings go thru the wrist pin bore on the piston… just rubs me the wrong way!
I went with the 331 version (rings NOT through the wrist pin) forged pistons forged crank, H-beam connecting rods, AFR heads, hydraulic, roller, cam and lifters , MSD ignition and edelbrock 650 (???) carb, Airgap .

I second LeMans850i's recommendation.  I've known several people who have had their 347 strokers come apart on them in spectacular failures.  The 331 versions seem to hold together better for the reason LeMans850i stated.



@panteradoug posted:


A zero balance engine is really for a race engine that is going to need internal parts changed often and because of the nature of the race schedule and rebalancing every change to zero again makes every part a simpler change.

Normally for a street engine you would not want or need a zero balanced engine. You don't want it.

Zero-balance or externally balanced makes no difference, other than to your wallet.  The cost of the SCAT zero-balanced forged rotating assembly used in my Pantera's 383C stroker cost about $1,000 less than the labor to have my local machine shop balance the engine using an externally weighted flywheel and damper.

My Centerforce aluminum flywheel and SFI harmonic balancer both had removable weights to make them zero-balance compatible.

Here's some interesting reading for you...

https://www.motortrend.com/how...-hp-302-small-block/

https://www.vintage-mustang.co...yno-results.1167010/

https://www.vintage-mustang.co...649457/#post-4303241

https://www.vintage-mustang.co...105337/#post-9572577

And here are the specs for a SVRA/SOVREN vintage-legal 8500+ rpm 289 race engine.  Might be perfect for a GT40 replica, but likely too much given your stated/desired usage.  But it would sure sound right!    (479 hp ; 360 ft.lb.)

https://www.vintage-mustang.co...motor-build.1218846/

Last edited by garth66

Hum. The 289 that Cobra Automotive was building as an "R" model , Vintage legal was clearly a 620hp, 8,000 rpm engine according to Curt Voght.

I saw him race it enough to swear it was 8,500 rpm down the straights.

To prove it to me, he put a cam in the car that clearly showed the tach never going over 8,000 rpm.



The '68 '40s were 302's with Gurney -Westlake heads and Webers. It proved to be a dependable set up.



I personally entirely understand the concept of, "I don't have the money...I can't afford it!". However, I am having difficulty in conceiving a GT40 with a budget engine.



It's really terrible to be my age and be so immature about so many things.



There is a 347 in my '68 GT350. The engine balancer had never seen those pistons before. He wasn't concerned with the rings, he couldn't believe the pistons weighed in at 340 grams. The pin at 102.

Normal pistons are 500 ish.

The thing revs like it has an aluminum flywheel on it helped out by the AFR heads and the C60E dual four "Trans-Am" intake.

USUALLY, you blow up an engine because you over stressed it. MOST "American engines" are at best 7,000 rpm engines. 9,200 rpm "Pro-stock" runs are "expensive".



My Cleveland is externally balanced with a '72 HO dampener.  My 67 GT500 428. The 428 was the last done. It was $385 to balance it. 2 years ago.

Those are strange engines. They are neutral balance from the thrust bearing forward and Detroit balanced from there to the back. I don't even know how to do that.



To me, the choice should be, what is it going to cost me in the future if I have to do a repair/rebuild if something has broken. On a street engine, stay with known/common entities.

Pay no attention to me. I am just a rambling lunatic.

Hi Patt -

Both myself, and Steve Lisa (AZ POCA members) have engines built by Steve Rolenc (SRE Racing Techniques) in Tucson, AZ.

SRE has had a lot of success, and his team has also built other Small-Block Fords for the Tucson Cobra community.

You might want to give him (Steve Rolenc) a call and see if he can do something for you.  I have nothing but appreciation for his work.

You pay for quality, but that’s what you care about.  You can certainly burn a lot of money on a build that didn’t last when you have to do it again (as Doug correctly pointed out, and I learned the hard way!).


SRE Engine Techniques | Racing Engines With A Warranty

If you are a POCA member, you can get Steve Lisa’s contact info through the club, or I can run it down for you if you PM me here.  He can give you an independent opinion if you want.
I thought you were in California, so Tucson may not be too far away.
Good luck!
Chuck    (a.k.a. Rocky)
IMG_3440

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Last edited by rocky
@rocky posted:

IMG_4321

If you really want to “take it to the next level “, maybe you could find a set of these!

Hall used to sell them…

You wouldn’t be lying!

😎



Rocky

I was looking for a set of these for Years! lol I think, years ago Hall had a sold the last couple and wanted about $400 they were new. Last time I saw a pair kinda beat up like this pair, the Price was well over $400! I've decided, I didn't like them that much! $$$

LOL 

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