Replaced radiator, now the engine is running hotter during stop and go driving

Have you checked the temp at the area of the sensor with your laser? I bet your gauge is off by maybe 6-8 degrees.

Another thing what temp thermostat did you install. Did you use the correct one? There is only one for the 351C

thanks for ideas will ck temp at sensor site and yes we have the thermotat rec by wilkinson robert shaw 180 i believe

Burping air from the radiator doesn't always work. There may still be a lot of air in the radiator. You may want to pull whatever fitting is in the top of your radiator (with the cooling system pressurized) and bleed air that way.

If you are not going to perform the vent system mods I've detailed in several past posts, then the second best thing to do is to install a drain cock in the top of one tank and manually vent the cooling system every once in a while. The top mounted drain cock will also help when you're filling the system .... much better results than raising & lowering the front & rear of the car.

The only other thing that comes to mind, be sure the fans are blowing air in the right direction.

-G

cooling system mods done by po new radiator has vent and no air when i vented
fans are correct
thenks for rep;y i am just out of ideas

I am chasing the same thing. I have done all of the modifications except hood vents. To many to list. In a post recently, it mentioned running without a thermostat. For test purposes only. Would you have to block off the By-pass passage in the brass piece that the termostat opens to block?

ok got some quality garage time today. had to pull the firewall out to install some koolmatand checked the temperature with my laser thermometer at the water pump and thermostat as Italford suggested
guage reading 180, thermostat 149 water pump the same.
btw the koolmat made a huge difference
used 2 of the 30 inch rolls, big difference in cabin temperature
life is good

Then you need to add a resistor across the terminals of your gauge. Will be in the 22 to 47 ohm range. This will lower your reading.

When I had my dash apart during restoration my temp gauge had two resistors wired in line with electrical tape. My guess is that this was dealer installed lol nice job. Long story short I installed an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge in the engine compartment so I can see it thru the rear window. I installed the sensor in the coolant tank. I monitor both gauges to avoid false readings. A resistor will help make the gauge more accurate.

question re the resister in the temp gauge. i believe my temp gauage is reading low is there anything that can be done for that?

quote:

question re the resister in the temp gauge. i believe my temp gauage is reading low is there anything that can be done for that?

Chris,

If your gauge has a resistor in its circuit, remove it and check the reading. If there isn't a resistor, make sure that the wire connections are clean and tight, and add a separate ground to the gauge. If that doesn't solve the issue, you may have a sender problem.

John

Pulled my thermostat. No difference

quote:

Pulled my thermostat. No difference

Did you block the hole below the thermostat?

Also note that certain replacement water pumps like the Weiand do not have the bypass hole in them and the Pantera does need that hole.

No, I was not sure how to block it off so that I could easily reverse everything.

quote:

No, I was not sure how to block it off so that I could easily reverse everything.

Hi Jeff,

Taking the thermostat out without blocking the hole is a guarantee of an overheating car... it allows a substantial amount of water to recirculate within the block without making a trip to the radiator.

IPSCO sells a block off plate for that hole or you could simply use the appropriate size freeze plug. Either method could be removed later when you decide to put the thermostat back.

OR, you could leave it in there and run a Winsor thermostat.

Scott

quote:

IPSCO sells a block off plate for that hole or you could simply use the appropriate size freeze plug.

If you use a freeze plug, make sure that you drill a small hole in its center for an air bleed.

John

http://ipsco.org/Pantera%20Par...ck%20off%20plate.htm

quote:

Originally posted by captaintobeys:
Pulled my thermostat. No difference

The trick with running a engine with no thermostat is to actually use a thermostat but remove it's mechanism so what is left is the thermostat "frame".

The "frame" of the thermostat is a calibrated restriction like a carburetor jet.

This slows the coolant flow to the correct speed, without it coolant will flow through the radiators to fast and not allow the coolant to be in the radiators long enough to lose the heat.

Problem is with a Cleveland you need something to deal with the bypass circuit as has been suggested or a large amount of coolant will recirculate inside the engine.

This is a photo of a thermostat that has had the "side skirt" removed allowing flow all the time but retaining the mechanism so when the temperature increases the bypass will still close.



It has the advantage that if it fails you will still have flow to the radiators, it's only the bypass that stops working.

I've found with electric fans the thermostat is not as important as it is with the fan belt driven mechanical fan that cars used to have unless you live somewhere that gets snow in winter.

I don't know if this will be benificial in every application.

To try it will cost the price of a thermostat.