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I am just about to install CV axles in my 74 Euro Pantera.  My rear wheel bearings had become suspect and since that requires disassembling the rear carriers I decided to switch to CV axles at the same time.  My hunch about the wheel bearings being bad was accurate.  It turned out they are original and upon removal some of them actually rattled when shaken.  The carriers are now reassembled with new double row bearings along with CV adapters and new wheel studs.  Switching to full CV axles also requires removal of the ZF from the car and removal of the ZF side covers from the transaxle in order to install the CV output shafts.  This conversion is not a minor undertaking.  Hopefully the new bearings will eliminate some noises and the CV axles will provide smoother operations.  Here is a photo of the new axles and adapters.

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I have a question for those of you with CV axles.  Are you using Moon Plates and Schnorr washers to secure them?  And 55mm socket head bolts (a couple of threads showing)?  The plates provide a thick metal base on top the the thin CV covers and they cannot turn because two bolts go through them.  The Schnorr washers work with tension (not friction) to keep the bolt in place.  Apparently this is the best setup to keep CV axles from coming loose.  The washers are one time use.

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Last edited by stevebuchanan

I switched to cv joints (using adapter plates) about 10 years ago and they completely eliminated my vibration under hard acceleration. Your installation using moon plates (common in Porsche community) and Schnorr washers is probably better than mine. I used flat washers without moon plates and torqued using a small amount of red Loctite. Considered safety wiring but decided against unless one came loose. Couple of items for your consideration. 1. All CV joints are not the same . GKN Lobro is usually considered the best without going custom. 2. CV joints require packing with grease. I recommend using Swepco 101. 3. 108mm Aerodynamic or High Speed boots allow easier installation, torque of bolts and they are more compact . Good luck

The bellow boots also don't last long if you install the halfshafts with the "thing-that-subs-for-a-u-joint" in the outboard position, because that lump seems to be bulkier and gets closer to the hot exhaust pipe just below. The axles are normally symmetrical so you can mount them either way. With the heavier end near the ZF, the unsprung weight in the rear is also fractionally lighter for theoretically better handling.

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