Bonjour,

I discovered recently that my ZF output shaft seals need to be replaced since they are leaking . Is there a way to replace those seals by keeping the ZF installed in the car or do I need to take the ZF out of the car?

Brgds

Hartwig

Original Post

I've done this job and its nearly impossible to do with the ZF in place because of the two 13" long cross-bolts. Its actually more trouble to rig things to remove the bolts than it is to just jerk out the ZF. You can leave the bellhousing in place for what you need. And once you get the ZF out, you'll need some really big snap-ring pliers and keep track of the bearing shims in each side plate. If you mix them up, it changes the preload on the differential and you'll get howling. Info in pulling the transaxle is on www.realbig.com by Mike Daily.

This is described, with illustrations, in the Pantera Service Highlights  (sect 4), lIght blue cover, available from some vendors or in the POCA Archives as a downloadable pdf for members. Not in the manual:  If you've never done this job, it can be a real problem for one person. First, the ZF alone weighs about 155 lbs and the bottom is often slippery with seeping 90-wt. There's an opportunity to really hurt yourself or your car! And if you drop it, the costs can be enormou$. Get a garage hoist or two large friends to help wrestle the ZF backward and out over the sides of the engine compartment.  If you choose to pull the bellhousing with the ZF, the wt goes up and so does the length and awkwardness of the package.

If you only pull the ZF, remember there are two large metric allen bolts inside the bellhousing that help brace the dash-2 ZF. With a transition dash-1.5 ZF (pushbuttons), the allen bolts are not there but there may be bracing arms between the early bellhousing & the early side plates you're trying to get to.  There are two tiny 10mm bolts under the car that fasten the bellhousing to the bottom of the engine motor plate that's sandwiched between the bellhousing and the block. The ZF must first slide backwards about 6-8" to get free of the clutch disc splines; then it can be hoisted out. Good luck.

 

Bossrench said; "You can leave the bellhousing in place for what you need."

That is only true if you have had it out previously and not put back the two internal Allen bolts that hold the bellhousing to the ZF. A lot of folks advocate leaving them out for future ease of removal, personally I put them back as 7 bolts are better than 5!

Also the length does not change with the bellhousing attached as the longest part is the input shaft.

To get the clearance to lift the ZF side mounts over the chassis mounting tabs you'll want to tilt the engine up at that back with a block and jack. Be careful where you place the jack if you have stock oil pan as the pan can crush easily and then the crank will hit it. If you have an aftermarket 10 quart pan it's easier.

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