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Has anyone had any dealings with too little resistance from neutral position on the shifter moving to left or right? shifts ok but the neutral area is kind of vague. The opinion seems to be indicating a problem with the spring/detent at the shift lever this is ok, has been disassemblem and properly lubed. What are the areas inside of the transaxle that would cause this?
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Steve,

The detent mechanism built into the shifter normally causes more trouble than its worth, and is duplicated by a detent mechanism built into the transmission. Most Panteras have had the detent mechanism built into the shifter removed, it results in a much easier shifting transmission. I can shift my trans with 2 fingers holding the shift knob, gently guiding it through the slots of the gate, very litle force is required to shift it.

I would remove the detent mechanism from the shifter, make sure the trunion bearing is clean, lubed and adjusted well; and the grease inside the selector housing on the side of the trans is clean and fresh instead of sticky and gummy. Then determine how the shift lever behaves when pulled left or right. If you pull the lever into the R - 1 or 4 - 5 slots & let go, it should spring back into the 2 - 3 slot. If there is reasonable spring back force (centering force), the springs inside the trannny are OK.

On the other hand if you pull the shifter into the R - 1 or 4 - 5 slots and it just stays there, or the centering force of the springs is weak, then it is possible the two springs on the selector shaft have lost their tension.

your friend on the DIC
George,
I routinely change out the ZF's fluid. I was not aware that the shifter box on the trans side should be also serviced. I assume that it is simply a matter of removing the 5 (?) bolts and pulling off the cover along with the famous back up switch ? Nothing catastrophic is going to fall out , like springs etc ? Can WD-40 be used to clean out the box , and a synthetic grease be used to re lubricate ?
Thanks.
Jeff
Yes, you can pull the cover, nothing shall fall out. You'll find the linkage inside packed with grease. The trans runs hot, so whatever grease you pack in there should be able to withstand 300 degrees or so without turning to liquid.

If you open it up & the grease inside is not sticky & gummy, polluted with dirt or water, etc; its probably OK & you can just button it back up.

your friend on the DIC
Thanks for the advice George the side of the trans has fresh grease as do all the sliding parts including the detent and spring assembly upfront.
If the 4-5 or the r-1 is selected and then "bumped" out of gear it does not return to center, just vague. This is the case whether the front spring assembly is in place or not, it acutally gets more vague with the spring assembly removed. I'm thinking springs on the selector shaft inside the ZF. I have been inside another one so I'm not too intimidated by them.
Steve,
I posted early on about about situation but deleted the post. Sorry about that. So I'll post it again.

I had the same problem and it was IN FACT the selector shaft springs. They are no big deal to replace and should solve your problem.
#'s 610 & 625

Having rebuilt 2 ZF's to date, they're really not all that intimidating. It's been nothing more than a myth that the average person can't do it.

Just for the hell of it, you might also make sure the shifter linkage rod isn't binding up at the firewall hole before jumping into the springs.

If you or anyone elses needs or wants a ZF Repair & Rebuild Manual on Disc, let me know. $10.00 sent US Mail. There's also a guy on E-Bay selling the same thing for $25.00 plus 10.00 postage. Which is a total rip off.

The disc also includes ADOBE to open and print any of the pages contained in the manual.

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