Slave cylinder

If you were able to rescue a stock, leaky slave for a year or two, count yourself lucky. Most that leak are unrepairable at all. You gained some time but now you're due to fix your car again. A second option is the stainless steel long- throw slave cylinders now being sold by all the Pantera vendors. These will never rust, will give more disengagement than your stocker thus saving the ZF synchros (at the cost of a slight increase in pedal pressure), and cost little more than a stock iron replacement. They are absolutely drop-in replacements to your stock bracket, using stock snap-rings.

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Originally posted by jack deryke:
If you were able to rescue a stock, leaky slave for a year or two, count yourself lucky. Most that leak are unrepairable at all. You gained some time but now you're due to fix your car again. A second option is the stainless steel long- throw slave cylinders now being sold by all the Pantera vendors. These will never rust, will give more disengagement than your stocker thus saving the ZF synchros (at the cost of a slight increase in pedal pressure), and cost little more than a stock iron replacement. They are absolutely drop-in replacements to your stock bracket, using stock snap-rings.

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I just did this last night in fact..... Purchased it from Marino at Pantera East with the stainless line as well. Simple upgrade and works like a champ!

Dave

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Originally posted by Bob R.:
Last year I rebuilt the slave cylinder by carefully smoothing the walls with a honer and using a Wagner #F33130 kit. It worked fine for a liitle over a year, but last night left me limping home with barely enough pedal pressure. Has anyone else had lasting sucess with this remedy, or am I destined to spend the bucks for a new, aluminum one? Bob R. Tipo874@aol.com

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If your looking for an original NOS unit,I have such an animal. Never used, unrusted, Cost $75 including shipping. Arnie

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Originally posted by Bob R.:
Last year I rebuilt the slave cylinder by carefully smoothing the walls with a honer and using a Wagner #F33130 kit. It worked fine for a liitle over a year, but last night left me limping home with barely enough pedal pressure. Has anyone else had lasting sucess with this remedy, or am I destined to spend the bucks for a new, aluminum one? Bob R. Tipo874@aol.com

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Twenty years ago, I was into the every one or two years rehab of my clutch (master and slave) cylinders on my early 71. On the third rebuild, I switched to Silicone Brake Fluid. Voila, end of problem! It is still working today.

The silicone fluid does not trap any moisture and is a better lubricant for the rubber parts. I also converted the brakes to Silicone fluid with no problems. The silicone fluid is tricky to bleed, so use a pressure bleeder and do it again a couple of days later.

Hope this helps,

Steve