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I'm new to Panteras, just aquired one yesterday! Under full throttle in 4 or 5th gear the rpms rise disproportionalty with speed, i.e slipping clutch. I looked at the slave cylinder and adjusted the stop to the point it is not hitting it all. AT this setting it is possible to wiggle the slave cylinder shaft a liitle, hence no force is being applied to the pressure plate. My conclusion is the clutch (& throw out/pilot bearing) need replacing. I sprayed some brake cleaner on the clutch/pressure plate face to see if grease was a problem. Made no difference.
Is my conclusion right, or am missing something?

With the ZF out, I will check for safety wires. The trany shifts fine, should I also look at the 2nd syncro, replace half shaft universals or anyhting else.
The car has 37K and driven little in 7 years

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Original Post
If the clutch is slipping,it's slipping and needs attention. The most important parameter is being able to make clean shifts, since a dragging clutch wears out the tranny synchros, and they are more expensive than you ever thought possible! An excellent addition is a long-throw slave cylinder, since the clutch disengagement was marginal when everthing was brand-new. The cylinders are available in stainless, so corrosion is no longer a factor. Incidently, there are four possible 11" clutches available: the stock is a Long-type with NO PRESSURE-INCREASING BOB-WEIGHTS! There are units with cast-on bob-weights, with bolt-on bob-weights and with none. ANY bob-weights will hit the reinforcing ribs inside the bellhousing, breaking them. The 4th choice is a diaphragm-type clutch- Centerforce is quite poular. This type (used in big-block 'Vettes) reduces pedal pressure while still holding just fine. All vendors have the proper replacements. As far as the u-joints, look for rotating circlips (shiny circles under them) and red rust at the joint ends; either means replace before driving another 50 feet! If a joint breaks at speed, it will seriously injure your new car- and wallet!
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