Start-up and acceleration

My car takes alot of gas to start. I don't see a problem with that.
As for the hesitation, It's a carb tuning issue. Again, I have the same problem with my 750 Demon on a stroker Cleveland.
Will

As far as how many cranks to start, it helps to know how long BETWEEN starts. My car takes that if it's been sitting for a few weeks, but she fires right up if it's a day or so.

The stumbling may be signs of a vacuum leak, either at a hose, possibly the intake manifold gasket, or as Will suggests, a carb issue. If you can detail some more parameters, maybe some of the more experienced guys (which, unfortunately doesn't really include me ) here can help you out. Good luck.

A few quick notes from an inebriated mind.

Folks are spoiled by fuel injection. They don't remember that carbureted cars take longer to crank, especially when cold.

A good strong electronic ignition goes a long way towards helping an old motor start more quickly. If your Pantera still has points, that's one of the reasons it cranks for a long time. If the ignition is fed power via the ignition switch (oem design) then the contacts in the ignition switch may be burned & limiting the voltage/current to the ignition. This is a common Pantera malady

Does the car want to idle at all, or does it die when you take your foot off the gas? A car that's been sitting may have gummed up the idle jets.

If your carb has those plastic fuel bowl floats, they may have absorbed some gas & are not floating at the proper level.

If the motor cranks slowly, this may indicate a bad ground between battery & chassis or between motor & chassis. It may indicate a dirty battery cable connection at one of the terminals between the battery post & the starter motor. It may also indicate a set of dirty contacts in the starter relay. Finally, a battery that sat for a long time may not have the current capacity it once had.

A car with a strong ignition & a properly working carburetor starts, idles & accelerates properly. Assuming the lack of other problems such as vacuum leaks.

cowboy from hell

It takes this many cranks or pumps if the car has been sitting for 2 or more days. The engine cranks very well. Great starter and great battery. The car is a 72 pre-L with a ballast resistor but has the wire between the coil and the relay. I don't mind pumping before I start it, so long as I know there's nothing wrong.

It also idles very well and only hesitates when you push down on the gas from idle. At higher RPMs, the engine has no problem accelerating (thankfully!). Its actually a 1406 600 CFM carburator. For what its worth, here's a pic:

-William

It could also be someone has too much advance dialed in, or fouled plugs, leaky accelerater pump. All kinds of things. Part of owning a Pantera is being a detective.

My guess is one of 2 things..

The points are pitted or the accelerator pump is either engaged to much ... the hesitation give it away... if it was engaged to much ... it would be ahrd to start.

Ron

Two additional notes that I can think of are first, is the choke adjusted properly, AND does it have the correct choke regulator on it?
Aftermarket Holleys rarely do. There is a specific choke regulator for every application.
The choke is specific to that application, not necessarily the carb.
The regulator controls the rate at which the choke opens in relationship to the air temp.
Secondly be aware that pump gasolene is only "good" for about 60 days.
If you don't use everything in the tank within that time period you should use a fuel stabilizer.
Symptoms that you described are also symptoms of bad gas.

I like the idea of the oil pressure switch ahead of the fuel pump. Do you have a part # for me? Is it adjustable?
Will

Well, from all the responses I have a total of 11 items to look into. The majority seem to revolve around the carburator, namely the accelerator pump and choke. I downloaded a copy of the Edelbrock manual and had figured on moving the pump drive link to allow for more travel as a start. I didn't get around to it, then yesterday I took her out for a spin and she died on me for the first time. I thought she might be out of gas due to a non-functioning fuel gauge (on my to-do list). I was able to get some fuel, but nothing. She turns over plenty but no ignition. I had to get her towed. I'm guessing it might be a fuel line problem or a spark problem. I gave her a light tune up a month ago (plugs, wires, distributor, oil, air and oil filters) but I didn't change the fuel filter.

I'd like to discount a spark problem. Is it true that I can confirm if I'm getting a spark by holding a spark plug wire to the block while cranking?

The search begins....

-William

quote:

I'd like to discount a spark problem. Is it true that I can confirm if I'm getting a spark by holding a spark plug wire to the block while cranking?

That is true. However hold the plug against theblock instead. If you just hold it in your hand it will know you on your ass. You want to see if there is enough juice to spark, not enough juice to shock the hell out of you, which is what it will do if you just hold it in your hand. And don't ask how I know this.

Ok, we have spark. DeTom, thanks for sparing me the loss of the few brain cells I have left. Also, I disconnected the fuel line into the carb and no fuel is coming out when I crank - looks like it might be the fuel pump. Incidently, I can't find the fuel filter. Where exactly is that supposed to go, upstream or downstream of the pump, or does it matter?

Cheers,

-William

William,

The original filter was screwed into the carb. Your after market carb should have an inline filter somewhere between the pump and you carb. It could also be between the tank and the pump. If there is NO fuel filter you could have a lot of trash in your carb causing multiple issues.

If you end up replacing your fuel pump, beware of the Holley pump marketed under numerous names. NAPA carries a pump that is made by Carter which I am told was the OEM manufacturer.

Good luck.