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Ok, if it aint't vapor lock (I've got the big fat gasket between the intake and carb and no Jack, it's not wood), then it's probably the starter getting fried next to the shiny new headers. What's the story on the new ,mini hi-torque starters? Do they bolt right in or are there some mods that need to be done? What's the advantage anyway?
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Hi rudy,
Most of the aftermarket mini-starters have the pinion gear overhung from the starter, supported on only one side. As a result, it is common for these drives to break and/or wear out quickly. Ford SVO offers a series of mini-starters that do have the pinion supported on both sides. Although I haven't done a direct comparison, the Ford starter doesn't seem to be quite as small as some. But if the Ford starter will fit in the space available, it should be more durable. I couldn't find my SVO catalog, but I think they are available for both Windsor and Cleveland engines. In a situation like yours a sheet metal heat shield could easily make the difference between a membership in the starter of the month club, or no more problems. Good luck...Al English
I bought a McLeod ministarter in 1989 for both my autocross Z-28 and my Pantera. Both have worked flawlessly ever since. Both cars run 10-1/2:1 compression and start engines smoking-hot within 5 turns. Be sure the heavy ground wire from the end of your ZF to the frame is there and is on a clean spot. Re the 351C: Ford changed the design of the flywheel around 1969, so be real sure you get the proper starter. McLeod said that theirs was an AUTOMATIC-trans starter that worked on stanndard-shift 351Cs. I exchanged a metric stud for a 1/2" longer one since my starter had an auto-trans adapter plate included, which made the flange thicker. Most of the ministarters (McLeod, Tilton, Hamburger et al) are really Hitachi units meant for a Nissen 300ZX, that are adapted with a custom nosepiece to fit US engines. Recommended for all street engines.
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