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My ($175-total invested) rebuilt original struts failed completely Sunday. I went to a car show, raised the decklid, left it raised for the duration of the show, lowered it and drove home sixty miles in 95 degree heat. They acted just fine.

Next morning, both struts are totally dead. No push at all. Maybe the engine bay heat toasted them? Before all I had to do was push the button and the lid would gently rise all by itself. Now they resist my efforts to raise.

I'm not throwing any more $ at the originals. I did some searching around the forum for aftermarket recommendations and can't really find anything conclusive.

Is there anyone who's happy with whatever substitute they've found recently that they would pass along a recommendation on?

I've got a wingless lid.

Thanks in advance.
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From prior posts both here and on the DeTomaso Mail List...

NAPA part # BK(Belkamp) 819-5207 (replacement lift struts for a Dodge Omni)
Compressed length of 10.34", extended length of 16.77"
They work great according to a post on the mail list.
Larry Finch reports that he has them on his car and "the function is fine. Holds up my no-wing lid just fine, closes easily, doesn't seem to be too firm. Probably not strong enough for a winged lid. No information on strength (pounds) of force." Larry's on this board, so you can contact him directly for any additional questions.

Note: The NAPA catalog image shows this to have different fittings at each end, but this is incorrect. Both ends have the correct flat plate with a hole needed for our application. Total cost for two - $40.36


Autozone #95004
Source: http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562...850090805#2850090805


SACHS North America SG314005
Coz reported that these shocks will hold with or without a wing. "I took 4 pairs for some of the guys to Vegas this year and use them myself. And I was just corrected, they are $20.90 each."


I have not tried any of the above referenced parts myself as my car still wears its original decklid struts (which work only on warm days).
quote:
Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
# 3463 has the Autozone # 95004. Application is for the 1987 - 1994 Dodge Shadow w/o spoiler. We made our own spacers for the top attachment out of aluminum which were required for this application. They are the best struts I have ever seen, worked with or have.

Okay,
I got the D95004s..BUT they seem to be about 3/4" too long and I (with all my might)can NOT compress them? Any ideas.
quote:
Originally posted by TomCat:
quote:
Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
# 3463 has the Autozone # 95004. Application is for the 1987 - 1994 Dodge Shadow w/o spoiler. We made our own spacers for the top attachment out of aluminum which were required for this application. They are the best struts I have ever seen, worked with or have.

Okay,
I got the D95004s..BUT they seem to be about 3/4" too long and I (with all my might)can NOT compress them? Any ideas.


Okay...I'm done! If you un-attach BOTH (original) struts you can "hyper extend" the back hatch to allow for easy installation of the new struts.

As for the elongated holes (in the Auto Zone brand), I cut about 3/4" long piece of 1/4" fuel line and stuffed/centered it through the elongated holes...as a kind of spacer/gasket.
This seemed to take up all the slack and allowed for some (silent) flexibility in the mounting.
All these being mentioned, are any of them gloss or simigloss? I am looking for gloss, to keep everything shiny in the engine bay Smiler

I still have the Detomoso brand as shown below, however they are pretty stiff. It has not caused a problem yet, and I suppose if they are built for a wing and non wing car, then the actual pressure on the decklid and engine bay hinge is the same, wing or not.

About hyperextending your deck lid, watch out! you could drive the top of your deck lid into the body of the car, so just watch that area if you are doing that.

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  • Strut
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
All these being mentioned, are any of them gloss or simigloss? I am looking for gloss, to keep everything shiny in the engine bay Smiler

I still have the Detomoso brand as shown below, however they are pretty stiff. It has not caused a problem yet, and I suppose if they are built for a wing and non wing car, then the actual pressure on the decklid and engine bay hinge is the same, wing or not.

About hyperextending your deck lid, watch out! you could drive the top of your deck lid into the body of the car, so just watch that area if you are doing that.


Auto Zone Option
1) Gloss-Shaft is "polished", housing is glossy black...and there is a little blue warning sticker that actually nearly "matches" the FORD Blue on my motor.
2) Hyper-extending...excellent point. I had a helper (my Wife) hold the hatch and move it quite slowly while I watched the interference and only opened it until it lined up with the holes in the gas strut.

BE CAREFUL!
Tom
quote:
Originally posted by larryw:
That's the consensus. Piston down will keep dust from landing on the seal area and getting dragged into the strut when you close the lid (compress the piston).

Agreed...water/rain, dust, etc...
I just like the "reciever" being fixed in place.
And Many of these cars do not see that much inclement conditions!
Thanks Tom for the gloss autozone 95004, they look nice. I will need to check those puppies out. The Detomoso ones that Wilkinson and most sell are pretty stiff, although they say no one ever had problems with them. If I go with the autozone and get those detomoso off, I will get da wifes bathroom scale out and measure the pressure of deto and autozone by using the scale on my 4 post lift to compress them.

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