My ($175-total invested) rebuilt original struts failed completely Sunday. I went to a car show, raised the decklid, left it raised for the duration of the show, lowered it and drove home sixty miles in 95 degree heat. They acted just fine.

Next morning, both struts are totally dead. No push at all. Maybe the engine bay heat toasted them? Before all I had to do was push the button and the lid would gently rise all by itself. Now they resist my efforts to raise.

I'm not throwing any more $ at the originals. I did some searching around the forum for aftermarket recommendations and can't really find anything conclusive.

Is there anyone who's happy with whatever substitute they've found recently that they would pass along a recommendation on?

I've got a wingless lid.

Thanks in advance.
Original Post
From prior posts both here and on the DeTomaso Mail List...

NAPA part # BK(Belkamp) 819-5207 (replacement lift struts for a Dodge Omni)
Compressed length of 10.34", extended length of 16.77"
They work great according to a post on the mail list.
Larry Finch reports that he has them on his car and "the function is fine. Holds up my no-wing lid just fine, closes easily, doesn't seem to be too firm. Probably not strong enough for a winged lid. No information on strength (pounds) of force." Larry's on this board, so you can contact him directly for any additional questions.

Note: The NAPA catalog image shows this to have different fittings at each end, but this is incorrect. Both ends have the correct flat plate with a hole needed for our application. Total cost for two - $40.36


Autozone #95004
Source: http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562...850090805#2850090805


SACHS North America SG314005
Coz reported that these shocks will hold with or without a wing. "I took 4 pairs for some of the guys to Vegas this year and use them myself. And I was just corrected, they are $20.90 each."


I have not tried any of the above referenced parts myself as my car still wears its original decklid struts (which work only on warm days).
# 3463 has the Autozone # 95004. Application is for the 1987 - 1994 Dodge Shadow w/o spoiler. We made our own spacers for the top attachment out of aluminum which were required for this application. They are the best struts I have ever seen, worked with or have.
quote:
Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
# 3463 has the Autozone # 95004. Application is for the 1987 - 1994 Dodge Shadow w/o spoiler. We made our own spacers for the top attachment out of aluminum which were required for this application. They are the best struts I have ever seen, worked with or have.

Okay,
I got the D95004s..BUT they seem to be about 3/4" too long and I (with all my might)can NOT compress them? Any ideas.
quote:
Originally posted by TomCat:
quote:
Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
# 3463 has the Autozone # 95004. Application is for the 1987 - 1994 Dodge Shadow w/o spoiler. We made our own spacers for the top attachment out of aluminum which were required for this application. They are the best struts I have ever seen, worked with or have.

Okay,
I got the D95004s..BUT they seem to be about 3/4" too long and I (with all my might)can NOT compress them? Any ideas.


Okay...I'm done! If you un-attach BOTH (original) struts you can "hyper extend" the back hatch to allow for easy installation of the new struts.

As for the elongated holes (in the Auto Zone brand), I cut about 3/4" long piece of 1/4" fuel line and stuffed/centered it through the elongated holes...as a kind of spacer/gasket.
This seemed to take up all the slack and allowed for some (silent) flexibility in the mounting.
All these being mentioned, are any of them gloss or simigloss? I am looking for gloss, to keep everything shiny in the engine bay Smiler

I still have the Detomoso brand as shown below, however they are pretty stiff. It has not caused a problem yet, and I suppose if they are built for a wing and non wing car, then the actual pressure on the decklid and engine bay hinge is the same, wing or not.

About hyperextending your deck lid, watch out! you could drive the top of your deck lid into the body of the car, so just watch that area if you are doing that.

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quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
All these being mentioned, are any of them gloss or simigloss? I am looking for gloss, to keep everything shiny in the engine bay Smiler

I still have the Detomoso brand as shown below, however they are pretty stiff. It has not caused a problem yet, and I suppose if they are built for a wing and non wing car, then the actual pressure on the decklid and engine bay hinge is the same, wing or not.

About hyperextending your deck lid, watch out! you could drive the top of your deck lid into the body of the car, so just watch that area if you are doing that.


Auto Zone Option
1) Gloss-Shaft is "polished", housing is glossy black...and there is a little blue warning sticker that actually nearly "matches" the FORD Blue on my motor.
2) Hyper-extending...excellent point. I had a helper (my Wife) hold the hatch and move it quite slowly while I watched the interference and only opened it until it lined up with the holes in the gas strut.

BE CAREFUL!
Tom
Autozone # 95004
Shock is Gloss Black, holds the decklid in any posistion, sturdy, etc. See the next 2 posts for the close-ups of the aluminum bushings Steve turned for the exact fit. Some type of standard spacer could probably be found(?).

Dave # 3463

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quote:
Originally posted by larryw:
That's the consensus. Piston down will keep dust from landing on the seal area and getting dragged into the strut when you close the lid (compress the piston).

Agreed...water/rain, dust, etc...
I just like the "reciever" being fixed in place.
And Many of these cars do not see that much inclement conditions!
Thanks Tom for the gloss autozone 95004, they look nice. I will need to check those puppies out. The Detomoso ones that Wilkinson and most sell are pretty stiff, although they say no one ever had problems with them. If I go with the autozone and get those detomoso off, I will get da wifes bathroom scale out and measure the pressure of deto and autozone by using the scale on my 4 post lift to compress them.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
Thanks Tom for the gloss autozone 95004, they look nice. If I go with the autozone and get those detomoso off, I will get da wifes bathroom scale out and measure the pressure of deto and autozone by using the scale on my 4 post lift to compress them.


I could NOT compress the Auto Zone by hand (weight) but the rear deck SEEMS nicely balanced (1973 with the small "Ferrari 308 spoiler"). When I removed my worn original styruts, I could compress them using my weight...~183 pounds
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
quote:
Originally posted by TomCat:
Mighty-Lift D95004

Thanks TomCat, you are great. I will try and get me some.

I'm just trying to pay back ALL the help I get from you guys!
Let me know WHEN you get them ($14.95) and put them on.
Here we go again!

I have the NAPA deck shocks, installed this spring because of a failure of the OEM shocks.

I have been concerned with the pressure required to close the deck. The pistons are pointing down. The shock pressure increases as the closing of the deck gets closer to the latch. I also have an issue with the deck lid not fully opening, by about an inch. I believe it is due to the "slop" created by the oblong mounting holes, both ends. I even fabricated spacers to try to solve the issue. Though I am concerned mostly about the pressure.

I contacted Wilkinson. Bill was very nice and explained the NAPA shocks create the most pressure in the closed position. He said they have seen numerous deck lids damaged (bent) and deck lid hinges and pins warped with these shocks due the pressure exerted by the NAPA (Belcamp & Omni shocks). The shock (NAPA style)pressure is maxed in the closed position, exerting a constant amount of pressure on the deck lid.

Bill advised their replacemnt shock has the correct pressure and it is maxed in the open position. He also said he it will not make any difference on the NAPA shocks to have the piston up or down, same pressure.

Bill said a new deck lid is $5,400.00 !

I do not see any reason to screw around trying to save $45-50 and risk damage. I don't believe he would set any sales records for a pair of shocks costing about $90.00. I felt his advice was sincere. His also comes with the hardware.

We all like to save money but the possible consequences do not seem to be worth the risk. I will let you know how they work after installation.

IndyDave
quote:
Bill advised their replacemnt shock has the correct pressure and it is maxed in the open position. He also said he it will not make any difference on the NAPA shocks to have the piston up or down, same pressure.



While I would not disagree that the vendors have likely done their homework/trials to come up with the correct pressure shock, I fail to see how a gas shock that is designed to hold the decklid open can be at max pressure in it's extended form. As the piston is forced back in the shock the gas will be under higher pressure i.e. in the closed position. Using the same deckild/body mounting points (bending moments) then nothing much has changed other than you have a gas strut that a vendor is standing behind to be of corrrect pressure for your application.

Did they ask you if you had a wing or fiberglass/CF decklid? All of these factors would affect the recommended pressure shock to use.
Bill advised their replacemnt shock has the correct pressure and it is maxed in the open position. He also said he it will not make any difference on the NAPA shocks to have the piston up or down, same pressure.

The aim of mounting the shock with the piston down is to maintain the shock's seal in good condition. He correctly stated that it will have no effect on the pressure.
Interesting perspectives. The other week I ended up purchasing the Mighty-Lift D95004 that I show in my posts above (maybe same as NAPA?). I purchased these because I felt the Wilkenson style (Detomoso) struts felt pretty stiff. However, I admit the Detomaso ones are more stiff with the hood open and real soft in the spot to latch the hood when shut (I thought maybe that was just due to hood leverage, but maybe not). I asked Wilkenson about those Detomaso struts about a year ago, and he said he has never had any problem with those Detomaso struts damaging any hood. So, I may end up leaving the Detomaso on the car in the end, now that I see these posts. Looking at both struts however, the Detomaso are larger diameter though, so I was assuming stronger.

In regards to car with wing or not, I don't think it should make any difference, since the same strut pressure is on the hood when you are closing the hood with our without wing (without wing you just need more hand pressure on the hood). Wilkinson only sells the one same set strength Detomaso for wing or no wing.

Maybe someday someone will measure some of these strut options on a scale and report back the extended and contracted pressures. If I had mine out of the car I could measure them with my 4 post lift to contract them and a bathroom scale.
For what its worth, you can actually check what you've got in terms of upward pressure. Take a deck-shock off, set it up in a press with a bathroom scales under the shock. If when you press the extended shaft down an inch and the pressure is over 110lbs, your decklid and hinges are at risk of bending. Most of the vendors will not sell a shock with over 110 lbs of pressure- and remember you got two of those suckers! My vendor-shocks for non-winged cars are 70 lbs each. For those with big heavy wings on their decklids, no deck-shocks will reliably hold it open. I like one vendor's slotted tube that is as long as the extended shock shaft, fits around the shaft, touches the deck on one end & the shock body on the other, so acts like a prop, without having to carry a mop handle around. Only one is needed. And it fits in the glove box when you're moving.
quote:
I like one vendor's slotted tube that is as long as the extended shock shaft, fits around the shaft, touches the deck on one end & the shock body on the other, so acts like a prop, without having to carry a mop handle around. Only one is needed. And it fits in the glove box when you're moving.

I made mine out of PVC tubing. I just ground a slot in it to fit snugly over the shock shaft.
Jeff
This post made me do some research. I have kept track of every single part I have replaced - and I have replaced most of this car over the past 20 years.

I could not find a single notation of decklid struts. I looked at old pics of the car from when I first got it all the way up to the latest pics from last week. And yup, they are same old original struts in every pic.

In 20 years they have never failed. Not once. Even with a big delta wing, it opens with simple push of the button and effortlessly pops open almost by itself. And it stay like that as long as I leave it, sometimes for days.

Closing it is also a snap. It glides closed with a very light pressure and clicks shut.

I don't even know what kind of struts they are. Are these magical Detomaso struts? Am I just lucky? Or what?
Well, here is the first measurement on a brand, if anyone wants to add more brands. I measured one strut using my 4 post lift as a press with a scale under it.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb

I did not put the Mighty-Lift on my car yet. I still have the Detomaso sold by many on my car, below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A


To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.
I put on a set of DeTomaso struts last week. Only issue was I found they were about ¾ in too long so it took a little ingenuity to close the (A BFH on a car jack, to push the bottom of pre-mounted shock on top) and someone to hold the deck. The car is late 6000 series with a Delta wing; Total deck & wing weight is 80 lbs; I noticed different mounting set-up on vehicles in Kingston last week-end, so set-up may be a bit different from car to car. I suggest you tape the front corners of the lid and C-pilar should the lid ever over extend and hit.
Hey Dave, I see you have the Detomaso shocks non installed. While you have them out, please measure the pressure of one of them on a press or lift like I did. Or maybe you could figure how to sit on one and measure on the scale on the bottom, without it giving a metal enema.
TOO LATE!
Sorry I can't measure the pressure, I already installed the shocks.

They are stiffer than the old & weak OEM shocks, as expected. I'm sure the old shocks were not a standard for the pressure. These shocks have superb mounting hardware as well.

I would definitely buy them again. They took a lot of pressure off of the deck as compared to the NAPA shock. The NAPA shock is very good quality- BUT they are designed for a different, non Pantera application. The Wilkinson shock is designed for the Pantera.
quote:
Originally posted by Indy Dave/4604:
TOO LATE!
Sorry I can't measure the pressure, I already installed the shocks.

They are stiffer than the old & weak OEM shocks, as expected. I'm sure the old shocks were not a standard for the pressure. These shocks have superb mounting hardware as well.

I would definitely buy them again. They took a lot of pressure off of the deck as compared to the NAPA shock. The NAPA shock is very good quality- BUT they are designed for a different, non Pantera application. The Wilkinson shock is designed for the Pantera.

I like the fit and appearance of the Detomaso as well that Wilkinson sells. In my opinion they still seem stiff, but maybe I am just getting old. If you didn't throw those NAPA out the window maybe measure the pressure on those and post it. I gave lb specs on the Mighty-Lift D95004 above, so the NAPA may be of interest to some as well.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
I see you have the Detomaso shocks non installed. While you have them out, please measure the pressure of one of them on a press or lift like I did.


I have the DeTomaso shocks as well. I took one off last night because I've been trying to figure out why my decklid sits perfect on the passenger side, but is raised by close to a 1/2" on the driver's side. Pix to follow ...

The weird thing is that once I removed the shock on the driver's side, my decklid now rests perfectly parallel to the body. I think it's up a little high, but at least it's straight.

Anyway, I'll try to measure the pressure of the shock. I can tell you that it takes nearly all of my weight to compress it on the ground (and I weigh 175lbs). I'm thinking that this shock is exerting more force that the other, which is why my lid is raised on the driver's side when closed ...
Erik,

Did you try swapping the shocks side-to-side to see if it changes things?

Are you sure that the rear bumper stops are adjusted properly? It looks like the left one is too high. The rear latch should be able to pull the whole rear edge into alignment if the stops are the right heights. At least that's the way it is on my car.



Mark
Hey Mark.

I have not tried taking the passenger shock off yet. I am already anticipating a major battle to get the driver's side one back on! Mad

As for the bumper stops, I have removed them before (without result) and have them out again now. Have a look at the pix below; it's weird how (with the driver's side shock and the bumper stops both out) the lid now sits level - albeit a little higher than I would like. Perhaps I will see if the latch will adjust things lower ...

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quote:
Originally posted by larryw:
Erik,

I like the little bumpers you've got that keep the deck lid edge from bashing into the body with the resulting paint chipping. Simple solution to a pesky problem.

I went down to the shop to do the same to mine and found I didn't have that little triangular bit on my decklid for them to bear on, but I'm going to come up with something.

Another item for this winter's TTD list.

Larry,

Check with the vendors, they sold a kit for this.

Michael
quote:
Originally posted by Indy Dave/4604:
Wilkinson has a November special price on decklid struts, $60.00, includes hardware.

Anyone measured the pressure on those DeTomaso shocks yet? I just heard that Mikes imaculate blue Group 4 had those on it, and it damaged his hood while at Cars & Coffee in S. CA. Someone said it damaged the decklid at the shock area with a huge dent.
quote:
Originally posted by Indy Dave/4604:
Can you check that claim (Wilkinson)?
If true, it would be the first according to Wilkinson. I am interested in hearing what you found.
Thanks

Hey dave. Mike usually takes his car to Byars. Sometimes I see Mike at our Cars & Coffee. If he is there I will sure enough ask about it. But the Pantera dudes at C&C saw it, maybe he has pics. Here is his car below.

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Should have read all there was to read about deck lid struts. But I had money due at Precision Proformance, so I just ordered them, no wing. When I got them I found that I couldn't press it together, even with my weight almost. Then I read the postings and got worried. They're marked DeTomaso C16-17702 18126A, have anybody had the guts to install them, and are they working (meaning keeping deck up and not tearing it apart?)
Well, anything marked DeTomaso has to be correct, right? I have those same 18126A shocks that Byars and Wilkinson sell. Both of them state that they have not experienced any bad issues with those shocks. I admit, they are stiff, especially when warm after a drive warming up the engine bay. Byars indicated to me that these are good shocks because the pressure is very low on the shocks & decklid when it is closed, whereas other aftermarket do not have that feature. This is why I stuck with the DeTomaso 18126A instead of putting on my aftermarket ones that I bought. Now that you have the DeTomaso 18126A, is there anyway you could push them down on a scale to measure the pressure like I did with these others in my post below? I did some measurements with the pressure of my 4 post lift on top of the shock with a scale under it. You could probably do the same with a floor jack against something solid with the shock and scale between. Once and for all, lets find the pressure of these DeTomaso shocks.

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...562/m/1240000755/p/4
quote:
Originally posted by No Quarter:
My electronic scale was not easy to deal with, but most results were 45kg for 1 inch, meaning 100lbs/in, right? Occasionally it showed 55kg, meaning moren than 115lbs/in.

Well, now at least we have some comparrisons to other shock strengths, but what is good and what is bad I don't know. I wish shocks would come with pressure ratings. And on top of this, Byars indicated to me that pressure on shocks should be almost nill when the decklid is closed, which is why they like the DeTomaso vs any of the aftermarket which don't do that. This is the reason I left my stiff DeTomaso 18126A on the car rather than use the aftermarket I bought. Only thing I hope is that Pantera vendors back up their material if something occurs with a part they sell. So if your hood or roof happens to bend, then Pantera vendors should cover the repair cost. However, if you went with an aftermarket shock on your own with guessing game strategy, such as PepBoys or whatever and then something happens, the bill should be yours for repairing any damage. All I know is what I have been told, and that is no DeTomaso 18126A has ever caused any problems.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by DOES 200:
Well, here is the first measurement on a brand, if anyone wants to add more brands. I measured one strut using my 4 post lift as a press with a scale under it.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb

I did not put the Mighty-Lift on my car yet. I still have the Detomaso sold by many on my car, below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A



To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.
Good list of pressures. FWIW, at least one vendor told me that deck struts over 110 lbs when fully extended will bend the roof over time, and even then are only for winged cars. He won't sell the heavy ones, instead recommending a strut lock on one side to hold up really heavy decklids. For fiberglas decklids, one lighter strut may be better than two really light struts as they don't closely match pressures anyway. Be very sure the extended lengths are correct as well; too long and the decklid edge will touch the roof. Too short and your forehead will find the decklid edge or the corners! Finally, the various years have different decklid attach areas with different size bolts and bushings, and most of these aftermarket struts have replaceable rod ends that unscrew.
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
... below is a link to the one from Wilkenson. I would be real interested in the pressure of these Detomaso struts.
http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=18126A

To continue with this post by adding more pressure measurements of other struts, I just measured the Detomaso 18126A brand from Wilkinson and here are the pressure specs:

1/2 to 1" compressed = 120 lb (this is what it took to make it start to compress).
2" to full compression gradually increased from the 120 to 160 near full compression.


I have the Wilkenson struts on my cat. Over time, I have noticed that the driver side strut has (as Jack warns) begun to lift my decklid to the point where it touches the roof line. Not good.

So, I removed the strut and (less scientifically) used all my weight (I'm 180 lbs) to BARELY compress the strut. This now has me looking at alternatives. The strut remains on my work bench (and will stay there) ...
Now I am concerned. A few years ago I replaced both botom shock brackets. One is a little lower. So I am thinking of replacing both again and doing a better alignment. Any tips on where to buy the brackets. The last ones were $35 ea from Bobby Byers. Nice stainless brackets,no complaints. This tread is getting more interesting each day. If the Wilkinson shocks are too stiff, what should we use for a wingless deck?
Dave
It took a while doing it all by myself with the hood supported through rope to the rafters, but I was able to put the Mighty-Lift D95004 on the car. They were taller so I really had to watch for over extending the hood. I kept a slim cardboard/paper piece between the hinge and decklid body and kept testing to ensure I could still move the cardboard. Near the end of it all the cardboard got a little snug to tugg on it, so that shows I was damn close with the decklid to the hige. Now I can lift my hood with one hand, exactly the right pressure in my opinion. Autozone, $14.50 each. There is probably nothing wrong with the Detomaso ones I had on there, but these are spot on for me.

Mighty-Lift D95004:
1" compressed = 96 lb
4" compressed = 105 lb
6" combressed = 108 lb
quote:
Originally posted by bdud:
Put on a pair of Autozone D95004's I bought today and my decklid will not stay open. So it is possibly either the Dodge Shadow with spoiler strut or the DeTomaso 18126A's to the rescue.
Any one else have that problem with the D95004's?

Bdud, those D95004's should work, or maybe you are in really cold country as all these struts act a little weaker when colder. Why don't you rig up a little pressure test on them if you get them off the car. Just rig one strut between a jack, bathroom scale and something solid to push against, and watch the scale when you begin to jack it and the strut begins to compress. Did the strut have a blue label on it with numbers? I am in upstate NY for the week so I can't look at my label at the moment and can't recall the numbers on it (I ordered D95004's from Autozone, but I am not sure if the strut blue label on them actually had the D95004 number on it or not).
Do you guys use some sort of lubricant on your decklid shocks? I noticed mine just got quite stiff when closing "and" when also opening the decklid. Usually with these D95004 brand it took one finger on the hood to guide up and down with the hood. A couple weeks ago I applied some grease and after a few up and down of the hood, it was back to normal easy slide. But now two weeks later it was kind of stiff again, ready for more grease, in which it slid better again after applying more grease and working the hood. Maybe WD40 or something else would be better, or last longer?
quote:
Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
...Use Teflon Grease! Does Not Freeze, Won't Dry-Out! WD-40 will EAT the Rubber Seals, and will evaporate after awhile!...

Thanks. Looks like I need the teflon stuff. I used Sta-Lube moly grease, but it doens't seem to last very long.

Sta-Lube: hydroxy lithium base plus moly disulfide, graphite and extreme pressure additives. The best multi-purpose grease to use for automotive and industrial applications.
http://www.crcindustries.com/a...l.aspx?PN=SL3141&S=N

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I got to this post late so I don't know if anyone still needs a good shock system but i put on a rear decklid shock kit that works great. It lifts my decklid with the wing without any problem and it relieves a huge amount of pressure on the body. I bought it from Mark Johnson [mjohnson@ipsco.org]. He makes alot of after market parts for the Pantera and his work is the best.

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quote:
Originally posted by Kid:
Pfffw, all this reading on decklid struts, and now I still don't know which I should buy...

Tried to find me some in Belgium, but so far without luck - wasn't expecting it would be that hard to find me such struts down here... :-/

My group 4 car has BOGE and I see a number 437G on them, which I believe they have these struts overseas. These have a real good feel to them, although the ones on my black car (Autozone D95004) are about right too for correct pressure.
quote:
Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
Wing or no wing? Can you get Napa parts there? Will


Have currently a teeny weeny "wing", but that's on the long term subject to change (I have the intention to get rid of the wing).


I'm not sure whether the current (dead) struts are still the originals, but they are huge, which made the parts dealers I did visit think it were suspension shocks... Over time someone did paint them, so can't see any partnumber or thelike on them.

I read the Wilkinsons are good, later on they are not, I read the originals (the 18126A's) are good, later on they are not, PIM sells them, etc... Confused I don't want to go for the IPSCO modification set for sure - don't like to drill extra holes, and see the original attachement points being unused, nor do I have plans to go for 180° headers.

NAPA will be a no go over here, but BOGE does indeed ring a bell... I could wait until I'm in the US again (which I was only a couple of weeks ago, but too little time to get into buying car parts), and check out NAPA or Autozone, but I'd like to have new struts, the sooner the better... Big Grin Roll Eyes

Now I have an idea of what pressure needed, it might make the search easier too though.
Hey Kid, You haven't introduced your car to us. I see an early pushbutton car there. Tell us about it (in a new thread)

regards
Denis
quote:
Originally posted by Kid:
quote:
Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
Wing or no wing? Can you get Napa parts there? Will


Have currently a teeny weeny "wing", but that's on the long term subject to change (I have the intention to get rid of the wing).

I'm not sure whether the current (dead) struts are still the originals, but they are huge, which made the parts dealers I did visit think it were suspension shocks... Over time someone did paint them, so can't see any partnumber or thelike on them.

I read the Wilkinsons are good, later on they are not, I read the originals (the 18126A's) are good, later on they are not, PIM sells them, etc... Confused I don't want to go for the IPSCO modification set for sure - don't like to drill extra holes, and see the original attachement points being unused, nor do I have plans to go for 180° headers.

NAPA will be a no go over here, but BOGE does indeed ring a bell... I could wait until I'm in the US again (which I was only a couple of weeks ago, but too little time to get into buying car parts), and check out NAPA or Autozone, but I'd like to have new struts, the sooner the better... Big Grin Roll Eyes

Now I have an idea of what pressure needed, it might make the search easier too though.

As for pressure ratings, I did some pressure measurements as noted earlier, but this is how I would line things up:
(1) the Autozone D95004 seem to be just the right pressure allowing the hood to remain open (you even have to add about a finger of pressure to guide it upward somewhat when opening the hood).
(2) the BOGE 437G by feel opening and closing the hood seems to be the next higher pressure (I never had these out to measure pressure though).
(3) the DeTomaso 18126A seem to be the highest pressure, hold onto your hood if you get these after you pop your hood open as the pressure causes the hood to raise real quick. Wilkinson says he never had issues with owners of these struts, so they are probably ok pressure, but they were just a little strong for my comfort level especially on a hot run where they seem to get even stronger (probably like any struts).

Very nice looking car you have, I really like how the exhaust sits real close to the body/bumpers if that is no issue with heat & paint.
Ok, got me new shocks (from PPC), but not too happy with them. They are about half an inch longer than the old (original?) ones, and the heads a bit too big, so I can't get the bolts properly in. And now I do have new shocks around, I can really feel myself how much pressure is needed to push them in, and that pressure feels like huge. Don't like the idea of having constantly that much extra stress on the bodywork, especially concentrated on such a little area...

Have to think things over again, and look for an other solution...




quote:
Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
...Use Teflon Grease! Does Not Freeze, Won't Dry-Out! WD-40 will EAT the Rubber Seals, and will evaporate after awhile!...

Damn things still tending to get stiff when opening the hood after a few days of sitting. That Sta-lube moly-graph lube seems to be the best at unfrezing them. I couldn't find an actual teflon grease, but got teflon grease spray and for some reason that really locked the hood almost shut after a couble of days. I even tried a lithium silicone grease, but nothing seems to work well after a few days of sitting. When I finally get the decklid open, the rods are dry as hell, with grease on the upper and bottom portions of the rod. Once I get a little greas on the rods again, then a few up and down motions get it going smooth as butta again. What the hey, don't know why it is all of a sudden doing all this. I never lube my other shocks and there is no problem with them. Maybe the internals went funky or too tight or something. So may go get some new ones again.
quote:
Ok, got me new shocks (from PPC), but not too happy with them. They are about half an inch longer than the old (original?) ones, and the heads a bit too big, so I can't get the bolts properly in. And now I do have new shocks around, I can really feel myself how much pressure is needed to push them in, and that pressure feels like huge. Don't like the idea of having constantly that much extra stress on the bodywork, especially concentrated on such a little area...

Have to think things over again, and look for an other solution...


From the picture, it looks to me that they are the same length and if longer by 1/2", it should still be OK.
The heads are too big? Open the bracket up a small amount and the shock head will fit in. From the picture, it looks like you need to open it about 1mm??
I find it hard to beleive that a vendor would send you shocks that don't work.
Will
The heads are too big in that sense that they do fit in the brackets, but the end of the heads do touch the lid, and then the hole in the head does not align with both the hole at the outside of the bracket, and the threaded hole in the lid. Sure, I can make the hole in the outer side of the bracket bigger, but then still there is no way to get the bolt in the threaded hole. After all, there is no way to simply replace the threaded hole in the lid...

quote:
Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
I find it hard to beleive that a vendor would send you shocks that don't work.
Will


They sure will work for others, but do not really fit MY car. Btw, I don't blame the vendor for selling me things that don't just fit they way they should, in my opinion it is rather a specific car related issue. If I really want, I can force a bolt in on the right side, but at the left side, the misalignment is even bigger, so no way to get a bolt in. It's related to being a handbuild lid I guess...

I'll just go for an other solution.
quote:
Originally posted by Husker:
Its a shame you're not willing go use the IPSCO setup. It appears to address all your concerns. I just received mine. Very nice setup. I intend to cut off the stock mounts (might leave the ones on the deck lid).


Well, to be honest, I've been thinking about going for that set-up after all... Roll Eyes
I got a new set of Autozone D95004 since these were perfect when I bought them, but some how got stiff and I almost have to grease them daily in order to open and shut the decklid. Doing it alone again, and replacing the same length struts I thought I could just hold up the hood like this shown in the photo and change one strut at a time. I whittled the top of the wood like Jed Clampet so that it fits just right in that upper latch grove which is pretty deep, and the bottom of the wood I have a metal reinforcment so that the wood will not split if too much pressure. After I load the back end with blankets and towels, does anyone see issues with trying to change the struts this way? When I change one strut, I would suspect the decklid would drop slightly on the side I took it out (even with this middle support), so I was thinking of putting the wood on the corner instead with good cushining of course. But the more cushining I use, that allows the hood to drop more slightly when I get the strut out, so that may not be as good as doing solid wood in the middle like shown. I am just being careful since the hood strut is real close to the hood and if the hood drops even slightly at the moment I get the strut bolt out...ouch! I think what is really needed is some type of support right at the strut area to hold that in place when the stut bold comes out, since holding the hood from anywhere on the back end still alows the strut area to drop somewhat. Having someone hold it can be dicy too, since you could over extend the hood into the paint...I have a fraction of an inch space there.

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I ended up using the one wood in the middle and also one on the sides to change out the struts. Worked ok, except that the left strut space on the car seems smaller than the right, so I had to raise the hood to a significant degree on the left side in order to get that strut in, all the time measuring the space between decklid and car with a piece of manila folder...was tight but worked ok with just enough space before paint hit paint (again with wife assistance to slightly raise the hood Smiler). The old right strut had some leaking at the bottom, but I don't see why that would make the hood become stiff on the up and down motion. Maybe extreme heat in the engine bay changed the struts over the past year or so...who knows, we will see how these new ones do. I plan on trying no lube this time, maybe that screwed them up, not sure. I use no lube on my other two cars and no issues whatsoever for several years now. I am glad to get those off there, I could hardly raise the hood after it sat a day or so untill I applied loads of lube to make it move again, but that got old having to do that every couple days or so.

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