Superior Radiator

That's a really pretty looking radiator you got there.

...I Had My Brass Rad rebuilt with 5 Rows. Guaranteed for 5 Years.
If I was Installing the Aluminum, I would BE SURE to add a 'Sacrificial Anode'. It will SLOW the 'Dissolving' of That Radiator, by 'Galvanic Corrosion'. It will NOT Stop It completely. It will also 'Help' protect the Aluminum Manifold.

quote:

Originally posted by Piney:
..3/8 NPT holes for fan temp switches,...158 deg F... Do they exist? M22 seems to be more of a standard size.
...

I had being googling throughout today looking for similair with no luck yet

does the bung have enough meat to drill and tapp to 22mm

PS....
I FOUND SOMETHING
http://www.electricfanengineer...rmostat_sensors.html

And the owner of the company drives a GTS!

I don't recall anyone discussing radiators from this company

Thanks guys!

I´ll look into a "sacrificial anode" and, yep, it seems EFE has the appropriate switch
Interesting coincidence (there are no coincidences) with the Pantera GTS!

Cheers
Martin

I used EFE's "contact us" page to request a price AND to see if he would have a radiator/fan package. I did notice the clearance switch/relay was available for $20US

Martin, i bought the same rad and installed it in 4072. The temp was set at 185 for the fans. So far so good but it has only been about 4 weeks. I plan to take her out on a test track next month, that should tell me if the rad is good and if i have any other gremlns floating around. thanks and goodluck, Dave

quote:

I used EFE's "contact us" page to request a price AND to see if he would have a radiator/fan package

Great, I´m interested in that info as well.

quote:

Martin, i bought the same rad and installed it in 4072. The temp was set at 185 for the fans.

That´s nice to hear Dave, I´d love to hear how it all goes. So did you use two 185 fan switches or just one which turned both fans on simultaneously (and perhaps plugged one bung)?

Continuing with the question

quote:

Originally posted by Piney:
..did you use two 185 fan switches or just one which turned both fans on simultaneously (and perhaps plugged one bung)?

If you use just one, are you using the lower (radiator inlet) or the upper (radiator outlet)? (if you have the horizoninal split radiator tank)

I bought the same Radiator in 2013 and its been good so far ;-) I installed a third Fan on the rear and bought these 2 Temp Switches from summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prf-30110
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prf-30111

one (185°) to control the 2 Fans in front of Radiator and one (195°) to control the Auxiliary Fan behind the Radiator (illuminate lamp in Speedo)

It works sweet

goodroc, that´s also nice to hear. Well, I bought two switches from Summit as well, one at 185 and one 195 (you can see them installed in the picture).
The reason I started worrying a bit is that when I first tried it, the water temp got so high (maxed out at 110+ Celcius) and none of the fans had even started, I was scared something would go bad!
So, I just assumed there was a good reason for the original switches to have been set at those specific temps. I guessed because of the fact the radiator is unusually far from from the engine..?

But, then again, who knows the accuracy of my temp gauge? I do have a temp gun. Where would be the best place to try and read the actual temps?

Where is your temp sensor mounted? It originally was in the swirl tank which is not the preferred location. There is a much better location near the water pump. If you're just looking to validate your temperature gauge then shoot the temperature where the sensor is presently located.

Hey Dave, the snow must be melted up there if you are heading out on the test track. I've found that the cooling system is challenged in bumper-to-bumper traffic on a hot day, not high speeds .. but the test track sounds a whole lot more fun.

Piney, yes it would be good to check the actual temp in your system. My gauge is not accurate either but I know where the Needle sits when everything is normal ;-)

I assume that all Air is bled out of your system? I found that if leaving the Car Nose UP for a while (engine off) it helps to get it all out.

My Pantera never overheats and the Aux Fan typically comes on momentarily when at idle in Traffic.

I got a reply from EFE's owner this AM. the swtich and relay combination are $89 USD. I replied with a request asking about sales to Sweden.

As for radiators and fans, he referred me to two Pantera vendors

quote:

Originally posted by JFB #05177:
I got a reply from EFE's owner this AM. the swtich and relay combination are $89 USD. I replied with a request asking about sales to Sweden.

As for radiators and fans, he referred me to two Pantera vendors

If EFE wouldn't ship to Sweden.

I can assist in the shipping logistics, meaning have EFE ship to me, then I ship to the Sweden location...Mark

quote:

I replied with a request asking about sales to Sweden.

Thank you!

quote:

If EFE wouldn't ship to Sweden.

I can assist in the shipping logistics, meaning have EFE ship to me, then I ship to the Sweden location...Mark

And thank you Mark, that´s very kind of you!

However, since others seem to have no issues with using 185 deg as ON temp, I might be fine with what I have.
What I will do first is check the actual water temp - my sender has been moved from the tank, that much I know.

Thanks for all the help!
Martin

Here is my thoughts on fan switch
IF you want the fan to come on and off with the opening of the thermostat, then the ~185F in the radiator INLET (or even better the pressure tank or block). If the 185F is on the radiator outlet, the expected coolant would be 30 to 40F higher at the block exit when driving at low speed

If you want the fan to come on and off when the water leaving the radiator has been cooled, then the ~160F in the radiator outlet.

I have wonder if cutting the fan off when the radiator is cooling at speed is worth the trouble. the fan will still be free spun by the windage so if it is still "running" wouldn't it become a generator.

I have also though about using a dual probe meat thermometer taped to the engine outlet and pump inlet to see what the return coolant temp would be at highway speed. I was planning on cuting the fan on and off with the coolant leaving the radiator so it would be nice to know what thermal switch setting

There is always the Pantera Electronics answer.

Follow-up for anyone interested:

Found this company, they sell on ebay as well:

American Volt

Bought and installed one 160 F and one 180 F fan switch in the radiator. For the first time since I got the car (four years), I can cruise for hours, idle at red lights etc, with no cooling issues whatsoever. Weird that it can take so long to get it right, since that is pretty much like it was designed from the beginning..?