You just need more foot space and you can shim the entire pedal panel out 1-1/2" to 2". I'm 6'2" and have it shimmed out 1-1/2" and that for me changed the awkward leg angles.
If you look in the forward trunk, you will see that it is a cast aluminum panel and is bolted to the sheet steel body.
If you unbolt it, you will see that you can move it forward. When the cars were still being sold new by Ford, there was a service bulletin issued that suggested for taller drivers, the panel be relocated forward with a maximum shimming of 1-3/4" forward.
You can get fancy and use plate aluminum as your shim but I initially made a pattern out of plywood to experiment with the total amount to shim the panel and found that the plywood was more then adequate to leave in there permanently.
It also gives you the flexibility to stack different thicknesses to find what is best for you. I wound up with two layers of 3/4" plywood glued together and left it at that. 1-1/2" total.
You probably could go as much as 2" but what happens is that the clutch and brake pedals when fully depressed get very close to the floor, so you need to be careful of not bottoming out those pedals.
What is interesting is that once the shims are finished sanded and carpeted, they are hardly noticeable at all and you really don't need to do anything at all in the passenger cabin drivers foot well. It's like it's an invisible modification.
Spacing the pedals forward helps in the angle your right foot contorts itself or more correctly reduces the contortions. 
You can play with the attachment of the accelerator pedal also since it is mounted to a pressed in 10 mm shaft and held on by a c-clip.
In order to help with the strange foot angle, I clipped off the lower right hand side of the brake pedal on a 45° angle, about a 3/4" x 3/4" amount, and it helps tremendously. That keeps you from catching the edge of your shoe on the brake pedal.
You definitely can't operate the pedals wearing construction boots.
Even when I buy sneakers now, how the sole is attached to the shell is a detail I look for. Molded with no projecting flange, like a good pair of leather dress shoes would have is really part of the formula to avoid.
BE CAREFUL with the original "gas" pedal. The original is "twisted" from the factory new and that twist helps the angle your foot must take. The current replacement pedals are not twisted and generally nearly useless unless you have your foot surgically removed and drive with just a stump.
Those pedals are cast aluminum and you can't heat them and bend them like the originals were.
If you have ever noticed pedal details on some of the '60s era F1 race cars, clipping the corners of the pedals was a common modification done for specific drivers with bigger feet.
This isn't "alien technology" at all. These are just details that most never notice unless it can apply to an issue that they have.
Really tight driver foot space is something that "Americans" aren't used to dealing with. The English cars like the XKE's are even tighter down their so they deal with it better since they expect it I think?
Try a 289 Cobra on for size foot room wise. Not only do you need to wear molded sneakers BUT the glue on them needs to be heat proof.
The first time I drove a 289 Cobra, the glue on my sneakers melted and the shoes came apart as a result. There is no heat protection in the foot box and the exhaust manifolds are right up against them.
