Yaris EPS installation

Pictures are not working!!!!

@LeMans850i posted:

Pictures are not working!!!!

They were showing up for me, but I downloaded them again, do they work?

@rene4406 posted:

They were showing up for me, but I downloaded them again, do they work?

I can see them now. Thanks.

You can clearly see in these pictures how well the RHD Yaris orients itself to the Pantera. The motor is compact and just tucks up into the Pantera dash in a void that is perfect for no confrontations with Pantera components?

I predict this will be a very popular modification?

There is very little cutting that is required. It is almost a "no-brainer".

The ECU fits flat to the right of the column and tucks up as if it was designed and intended to all along. The bracket that you need to make for it is simple and a blind person could do it.

What is amazing about using this Yaris part is it is so smooth and quiet, until you tell someone the car has power steering, no one would suspect it at all?

So far it's much easier than I thought, but I'm not finished yet and I may have some difficulties to solve that I haven't seen yet.

@rene4406 posted:

So far it's much easier than I thought, but I'm not finished yet and I may have some difficulties to solve that I haven't seen yet.

I just spliced the Yaris shafts into the Pantera column making couplings and using 10-32 "aircraft grade" hex bolts and locking nuts.

The DD shaft sleeve has so much engagement that being precise on the length of the engagement of the male and female is almost insignificant.

On mine the part on the input shaft with the splines  just got removed to leave as short as possible a stub for the coupling for the Pantera input shaft.

As you work on mating the two together, and realize that the new assembly needs to be as compact as possible to fit it in, you will see that is where you need to cut the Yaris on the input side.

The necessity of retaining the Pantera ignition switch and directional signal mounting will be the determining factors.

The output on the Yaris will also be as short as you can make it and also retain enough shaft to mount the universal joint.

@panteradoug knows better than I do, Just want to point out what I run into..

The two measurements I would keep Working from, at this point , would be the location of the universal joint (take measurements from the rear mounting holes to the beginning of the universal joint of the original ) I would try to have the same geometry of the 2 universal joints as it was… Also make sure when you start making the attachments for the universal joints that they are clocked correctly to each other and the power steering unit is in the center position, lock to lock. Also the height of the shaft where steering wheel would mount,  to the bottom of the dashboard cut out. When I mounted the EZ System, I suddenly was 8mm to high from the column shroud and the dashboard… I needed to adjust the mounting points in the back “up” to bring the motor assembly down in the front.

Not centered

I still have the spacer I made to put between the mounting pads in the front but  the angles would be all wrong.

Steering wheel would sit like on a tractor.. or Ferrari 308… and nothing would fit… Turn signal switch …

And one last thing… fiddling the bolts in from the bottom to mount the unit is a pain in the…you know what…

I would highly recommend to put studs in. It makes life a lot easier. You put it in and take it out 50 times… What a pain

once you’re done, you can put bolts in it, but for the assembly and figuring things out… studs!!

I don't think that EZ used the Yaris? The Yaris doesn't seem to have the same mounting issues but I didn't do the EZ so I can only speculate on the differences?

It took me awhile to find the Yaris RHD. Considering it is a RHD, and I am in the US where we don't see ANY RHD vehicles, I'm wondering why I'm the only one to discover it so far especially on the other side of the pond?

Generally speaking for me this was a very fun project even though spanning over three or four years because of trying various variants?

Other "engineers" can justifiably testify to what a PITA I can be to work with. Stubbornness has SOME benefits ultimately but it generally means that you wind up with very few friends for very long? Even when YOU are right. Maybe ESPECIALLY when you are right?

Not to go all religious but maybe, yes, everything in life seems like a metaphor but in the Christian story of the "Last Supper" Christ says something to the effect of "you will deny me three times". I denied the possibility of this more then three times and chucked the entire thing against the wall more then a few.

You can already see Rene's reactions to the application, and so far, they seem to be all positive.

I am waiting to see if he discovers something that I missed somehow?

As far as the geometry of the u-joint, what I decided on that was no matter what variation I came up with, it was well within the capacity of the u-joint?

I doubt that there is anything 100% perfect especially when "hot-rodding" stuff like this but so far, I am not seeing any drawbacks at all. Just pluses.

The nature of the RHD Yaris unit itself creates a need for a simple mounting bracket when applied to the Pantera. It is almost seems made for this application by comparison to the other possible units to apply. The mounting bracket I created had little issues with access to the fasteners.

I totally get the part that others needed a prepared kit with the engineering accomplished by others but for me that is just not in my nature.

I'm the curious monkey in "2001 A space odyssey". One day I will suffer a similar fate and whatever is out there baiting me out of my hole will finally get me? I hope that at least she is pretty?

Panteradoug, I agree with you, it's a lot more fun to study and do it yourself, not to mention it's going to cost me less than $300.

The column mounts exactly as stock on the stock brackets, so there's no reason the steering wheel shouldn't be in the same place.
I won't be sure if there's room for the U-joint until I get it in early March, but "by eye" it's fine.
The relative position of the two U-joints is only important when you want a constant velocity transmission, which is not the case for this application.

Hi Everybody

I am on the other side of the pond and I am in the process of fitting either the Toyota Yaris or the Prius steering unit to my Pantera 2898. The Prius has a bigger driving gear with about 30% more torque but it might not go in the space, I am about to find out. I have a lot of trouble removing the dash and have had to break off screws holding it on. Nearly there!

I have both units and found that length wise they are almost the correct length, and I can get a steering wheel adaptor to fit the Toyota spline and still use my Momo steering wheel. so no cutting or welding on the top half. Just got to make a new outer tube to fit onto the Toyota gearbox.

Will send photos of the fit when I get the dash removed.

@Mike Barnby posted:

Hi Everybody

I am on the other side of the pond and I am in the process of fitting either the Toyota Yaris or the Prius steering unit to my Pantera 2898. The Prius has a bigger driving gear with about 30% more torque but it might not go in the space, I am about to find out. I have a lot of trouble removing the dash and have had to break off screws holding it on. Nearly there!

I have both units and found that length wise they are almost the correct length, and I can get a steering wheel adaptor to fit the Toyota spline and still use my Momo steering wheel. so no cutting or welding on the top half. Just got to make a new outer tube to fit onto the Toyota gearbox.

Will send photos of the fit when I get the dash removed.

We are on the same side of the Atlantic but not on the same side of the Channel
Since there are very few cuts to be made, for the moment I have not needed to remove the dashboard.
Beyond the steering wheel, there is the ignition switch, the indicator control and the plastic covers, how do you think you will adapt them if you do not take an external tube from a Pantera or Capri?

I turned an adapter ring between the large Yaris tube and the smaller Pantera tube. I cut the Yaris tube and the Capri tube to the correct length and then TIG welded the ring to the end of the Pantera tube:

I then welded it to the Yaris tube.

I then cut the Capri and Yaris shafts so that the shaft came out of the tube the same length as the Pantera shaft. I turned a sleeve and welded it to the Capri shaft

and secured it to the Yaris shaft with two crossed split spring pins.

Here is the assembled assembly:

I finished the bracket that I had made quickly and fixed it with a spot of weld, all that remains is to apply a black anti-rust paint.

The assembly is perfectly fixed under the dashboard but I need to add an additional bracket to support the torque that would otherwise only be absorbed by the press fitting of the big steel tube of the Yaris on the aluminum housing. I looked and it should be quite easy to do.

I also found a place to easily fix the ECU without it being seen.

To be continued........

Looking good!

Rene, I think what you are illustrating is how well the Yaris RHD EPS applies itself to the Pantera?   This is what I was stating previously.

It struck me that of all vehicle "add on component systems" that the EPS must have been conceived of as a modular one? No one specifically designed for any one particular application.

Just a concept of sliding up and down the chart selecting the best size and orientation to be applied to any one application. Almost like looking at a tire application chart?

The variation from vehicle to vehicle would be in the brackets needed to adapt it to a specific vehicle chassis. Sourcing one being similar to what Detomaso did with the Pantera in adapting the Capri column out of the Ford Euro stockpiles.

The Yaris just emerged to me for the Pantera as one, "checking all of the boxes" comprehensively.

As I recall, the Prius is a larger basic unit then the Yaris is and that was the reason that I went with the smaller Yaris RHD version?

Space available in a Pantera is absolutely minimal at best.

I don't recall if the Prius had a choice of a LHD or RHD orientation like the Yaris does but it could simply have been that when I found the Yaris RHD, I stopped searching?

In the Pantera, the boost motor needs to be on the left side of the steering column.

The managerial decisions now in our era are largely made by analyzing research data. That gives us the best likelihood of success but that also is based upon the initial criteria we stated as the issue needing an improvement or complete solution to.

The Pantera never had power steering to begin with. Many still would say that power steering is not necessary.  If that is so, why would a system with 30% more power, like the Prius, be more desirable in a vehicle of similar size and weight to the Yaris to begin with?

Don't forget that with the emergence of the automatic variable GPS boost control, boost to the servo motor of the EPS is being ramped down to completely eliminated by 50mph. This to eliminate the possibility of over boosting steering assist at high speed, further emphasizing the lack of necessity of more power steering boosting?

I'm working on a narrow fender car with a maximum of 8" front wide wheels, a 235-50-15 maximum tire profile and little or no need to overcome bad scrub radius.

I'm aware that the wide fender cars have less then perfect front steering geometry and with the possibility of 10" wide wheels and 285-40 profile tires COULD possibly benefit from more assist into much higher speeds?

There I would yield to the possibility of being able to use a higher power motor but that might not even be necessary if using the manual boost control instead of the automatic boost reduction GPS device?

The automatic boost control ramps down boost v vehicle speed. The manual control does not vary it and remains constant according to the setting you have it on.

Size wise, from what I have experienced, the Yaris is about as large a basic unit as can be fit into the Pantera and the smallest on the market?

I can't compete with what results Toyota can attain, so why not let them do the research, specs and development?

All my "engineering" is done with a LHD Pantera in mind. I don't know how that will change with a RHD Pantera?

The mounting bracket to absorb the torque it's fixed on an original mounting point of the servomotor:

The ECU is completely invisible under the dashboard:

I am really looking forward to receiving the U-joint because it is the only element that could still cause me a problem.

I should receive the ServTronic control module tomorrow. I will be able to make the electrical connections and do a first test by creating a resistive torque at the output of the servomotor with a clamp.

Amazing how it all falls into place so easily isn't it? Great thinking and execution on your part.

I do know that I had to shorten the output shaft to install the u-joint flush to the housing of the motor to make everything fit, but it did fit and clears the clutch pedal almost identically to the original clearances.

I agree that there is no need to remove the dash in order to do this. No one ever suggested that was necessary. In fact, it may hamper it.

Everything is accessible from underneath the dash. Just the original steering column needs to come out.

Just in case

Thanks, but as I said I kept the original column absolutely intact and so I can still take all the necessary measurements.
It is not imperative that the angle of the shaft towards the steering rack is exactly the same as the original, it is enough that it does not touch the clutch pedal. If necessary I will shorten the output shaft of the servomotor and adapt the U-joint.

I received the control module, it is very small +/- 1-1/4'' x 1-1/2'', it will be easy to position.

In addition to the adjustment according to the speed thanks to the GPS antenna, there is a potentiometer inside which allows you to adjust the assistance power to your liking.

Here is the control module fixed next to the ECU under the dashboard.

I did a brief test by creating a resistant torque with a clamp and ...... it works!

Really looking forward to receiving the U-joint to complete the installation because it will certainly be the most difficult part in terms of space and to do the first road tests.

It's working! In this video, everything was assembled very quickly. Nothing is tight, but you can see that I can turn the steering wheel while stationary with the wheels on the ground with just one finger. It's on my PVC garage floor, which is less grippy than asphalt, but the power assist setting is in the middle, so I'll be able to increase or decrease it after some real road testing.

It took longer than expected because the first U-joint I ordered didn't fit, so I had to order another double-D one and mill two flats on the output shaft. I also damaged the first assembly, which stopped working, probably when I hammered the first U-joint in. I've since learned that the torque sensor is quite fragile and that you have to be very careful. Luckily, I found another assembly in Poland for €50, including shipping.

Nice work!

I think that you will be equally amazed when you drive the car. The steering is so steady and effortless.

I actually think that it helps you drive the car very fast since it positively stabilizes the steering. So much so that you feel so confident in driving really really fast with it.

There may be other systems that work equally as well but this one just plainly compliments this car so, so well.

It is so quiet and inconspicuous no one would suspect there is power assist to the steering unless you tell them AND it fits so well.

Nice work! I knew you could do it!

Yes, definitely, especially since it allows for a greater caster angle since steering effort is no longer an issue.
I'm going to finalize all this and can't wait to try it out on the road.

A big thank you to you, because I probably wouldn't have spent €3,000 on this. But for €300, it's definitely worth it, and the adaptation is really easy for anyone who's a bit of a mechanic.

Nice work!

I'm adding this to my 3.0 project.

I'm currently in the middle of the 2.0 project and hope to have my re-sleeved Cleveland back this week.

@rene4406 posted:

Yes, definitely, especially since it allows for a greater caster angle since steering effort is no longer an issue.
I'm going to finalize all this and can't wait to try it out on the road.

A big thank you to you, because I probably wouldn't have spent €3,000 on this. But for €300, it's definitely worth it, and the adaptation is really easy for anyone who's a bit of a mechanic.

I've got lots of grey hair (but I've got hair!) and sometimes I actually know WTF (whisky-tango-foxtrot) I'm talking about.

I'm glad to have helped.

@panteradoug,

Did you find a way to adapt a VSS to this system? I'm intrigued but I'm not a fan of GPS for speed sensing.

Steve

@tsolo posted:

@panteradoug,

Did you find a way to adapt a VSS to this system? I'm intrigued but I'm not a fan of GPS for speed sensing.

Steve

Adapt a vss? Why? You have the option with all of these aftermarket EPS to use a manual control for boost.

In reviewing comments from those who have, they don't find a need to change the intial setting regardless of the vehicles speed.

Do if I know if they have run 160mph with it on full boost? I do not.

Neither have I and I can't tell you if going to zero boost at 55mph is the correct setting either, but the GPS version does have a sensativity adjustment built in where you can change where the EPS ramps to zero.

It doesn't increas the boost, it just keeps it on longer as you choose it.

I would advise that somehow you need to test drive an EPS equiped Pantera and make your own determination. We are hearing different opinions but generally speaking I have heard of no one who has EPS that does not like it.

I'm just here to help others not to dictate terms or rub the puppies nose in do-do for "making" in the house.

Which year or Yaris is this EPS from?

Steve

Steve,

Just send an e-mail to the guy that sells the GPS speed sensor and ask him what signal the GPS unit outputs. Then find a VSS that outputs the same signal.

The servomotor I used has the reference 45200-OD50, it comes from a YARIS II from 2006, but I think that other versions can be adapted perhaps a little differently but just as easily.

The key to which model year to use is what electronic adapter is available, Not all years are currently available.

The designer, builder and supplier of ALL of the needed aftermarket controllers for these EPS units is "Bruno". They all work off of the original Toyota designs, which he designed for Toyota. So all of those other listings are variations of the original Toyota concept.

You can find the current available units here on his ebay page.

https://www.servtronic.com/col...g-controller-box-kit

For anyone who wants to do this, IF you want to build your own system, the formula to what works, what to get and where to get it is in the subject matter of this entire thread. Two threads actually BUT you need to read through it yourself.

If you do not understand it then I would advise to stay away from attempting this project because it is simply over your head.

I can't make it any clearer.

NO ONE is going to spoon feed you as if you are a pre-toddler. NO ONE is going to explain to you why wheels are round and not square,  so asking certain questions really is at least a yellow caution flag if not a red flag indicating that you should stay as far away from this as possible, BUT you do have the option of purchasing a pre-built kit from one of the Pantera venders such as SAC Restorations with all of the details of their kits worked out for you.

To many that is a very good option.

In any case, sincere best wishes from me.

After a few more problems, everything works well, and aside from maneuvering, I confirm that it's very pleasant on the road during tight turns at low speed or in the city on small streets. I also confirm that you don't notice the boost decreasing with speed; the steering wheel resistance is simply always well adapted to the speed.

I say problems because I thought I had only damaged one part of the first Yaris assembly and could keep the other with the adjustments I had made. As a result, it worked, but more when turning left than right, and in a straight line, if I let go of the steering wheel, it turned left by itself.
So I had to replace both parts and modify the way I assembled the two tubes to avoid welding, instead using 3 screws in tapped holes:

And here's the result when stationary:

So if anyone wants to do the same thing, BE CAREFUL: the torque sensor is fragile, and you must avoid impacts and not weld anything on the Yaris assembly side.