tail light lense replacment

I bought a set pf replicas off of ebay and couldn't happier with the quality! Even more so since I saved a bunch of money.

IF U WANT TO SAVE MORE MONEY, BUY TWO ALFA BERLINA 2000 TAILLIGHTS NEW,(OR FROM A SECOND-HAND SCRAPYARD.)- THEN BUY A SMALL BOTTLE OF ORANGE STAINGLASS-PAINT FROM AN ARTSHOP AND CLEAN UP & PAINT THE BACKS CAREFULLY. FUN. LOOKS BRAND NEW. BETTER THAN REPLICA'S.
IF U WANT TO SEE WHAT MY OLD,'PAINTED-UP' SET LOOK LIKE AFTER 30 YEARS, (I JUST PAINTED MINE,)-THEN GO TO ALAN B's POSTING "180 DEGREE HEADERS", TO SEE COLOUR PICS OF MY GRP.4 REPLICA POSTING.
ALSO PICS OF MY NEW MOTOR ON STAND PRIOR TO FITMENT, WITH ALL THE GRP.4 BITS ; WEBERS, 180 DEGREE HEADERS (CERAMIC COATED)'QUENCH' HEADS ETC.
MOTORS IN NOW, WITH ACCUSUMP OIL-PRESSURIZED SYSTEM, DIEST FIRE SUPPRESSION SET-UP ET AL. HAVE NOW FITTED THE UGLY BUT VERY EFFICIENT K & N, MASSIVE AIR-CLEANERS OVER THE 6 INCH VELOCITY STACKS. (IN COMING AIR, AIDED BY BIG 'BUNNY-EARED' AIR-SCOOPS STICKING OUT AT LEAST 6INCHES INTO THE AIR STREAM, TO ENABLE THEM TO DUCKT AIR TO THE WEBERS. THE AIR WILL STILL 'TUBBLE OVER' THE SPECIALLY DESIGHNED EDGES OR 'MUSHROON MOUTHS OF THE VELOCITY STACKS AND INCREASE THE FLOW-SPEED)FOR ANOTHER 2, MAYBE 3 HORSE POWER ? WHAT DO U THINK JACK / GORAN ??
TAI.

Can't even guess how much increase you might get. Probably more from receiving cold air than ram-pressure air, and you lose about the same from increased drag. Ram tubes tend to often foul up carburetor mixtures, incidently unless you can somehow monitor the mixture. Its easy to go lean at the top end and you never hear the detonation that destroys pistons & bearings. Here in the US, we call them 'elephant-ears'. They are effective in grabbing air at higher speeds. At 150mph, enough air is scooped up to tear the entire scoop and window frame out of the body on at least one car. The stock window frames are only held in by gasket pressure. I suggest you run a few sheet metal screws thru the frames & into the body before you waste hours looking for your departed parts....

Jack.
Yes, I have indeed heeded your excellent advice re. the screw-fixing of the 'elephnant-ear' airscoops to the body from a posting of yours a while back.
But I am interested to hear your comments on the ram-tubes re. mixture/ potential problems...not hearing detonation ....Would u advice then rather removing them & running the big K&N's over the Webers without them ??
We are about to dyno the car, after some run-in period on the new motor, so perhaps we should do a with & without run .......
Many thanks again, tai.

Many builders including pro racers use open-back air scoops connected to carbs because of the difficulty in setting carbs up for varying amounts of ram-air 'boost'. Theoretically, if the whole top of a carb is slightly pressurized by a scoop (floats, air bleeds etc), the mixture should remain constant. In reality, it seems thats not always so, but if you set things up so the carb is simply fed cool air at atmospheric pressure, the increases are predictable & engine damage is rare. I'd encourage the use of K & Ns or some sort of box over the stock Weber ram tubes. Air cleaners create a still-air space above the carb mouth and encourages the air to make its sort-of unnatural 90 degree turn down the intake. Without something like this, you can get a sort of 'eductor' effect as the passing air rushes right by the carb bell-mouths and the whole system starves. Incidently, this effect may not show up in a static dyno-run but does occur in rapidly moving vehicles.

Of course Jack, makes perfect sense. Can I just ask : what do you mean by fitting the K&N,box-type filters over the 'standard Weber' carb ram-tubes? Would the 6 inch tall ones I am running at present be considered 'standard', or were the standard ones shorter? Does it make any difference which of these I cover with the big K & N's ? I also have -+ 4inch ones, but they dont exhibit the pronounced 'bell-mouth' or mushroom-look as the taller 6 inch ones do and wont the taller 6inhers promote increased mixture velocity down thru the carb & manifold ?
The K&N's certenly are 'box-type' and should do just as you say,: provide still air to the ram-tube bell mouths.
Many thks. for your sage advice jack.