My e-brakes seem to work only occasionally. I really haven't spent much time looking for a fix..but my guess is "something" needs a shot of lube.
Any help with where to look first? Thanks.
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I have had a similar problem with mine, My calipers were rebuilt 2 years ago and the e-brake on the driver side does not want to release after it has been applied.
Gary
Gary
There are only a few things that can contribute to non-working rear calipers: first, the steel- cable-with-steel-jacket often gets rust or corrosion inside. Disconnecting the cable, moving one end of a jacket to a high spot & taping a paper funnel around it will allow you to run oil into the assembly & possibly free it up. Second, if one of the rear calipers has a stuck piston from build-up of varnish, you can disassemble the offending one, polish the piston with scotchbrite and reasemble-no parts normally needed. Finally, those calipers are designed to slide back & forth in operation so a dab of axle grease in the sliding channels once a decade is a good idea. Removing the brake pad exposes a setscrew that sets the sliding clearance and this also might need adjustment
quote:
Originally posted by jack deryke:
There are only a few things that can contribute to non-working rear calipers: first, the steel- cable-with-steel-jacket often gets rust or corrosion inside. Disconnecting the cable, moving one end of a jacket to a high spot & taping a paper funnel around it will allow you to run oil into the assembly & possibly free it up. Second, if one of the rear calipers has a stuck piston from build-up of varnish, you can disassemble the offending one, polish the piston with scotchbrite and reasemble-no parts normally needed. Finally, those calipers are designed to slide back & forth in operation so a dab of axle grease in the sliding channels once a decade is a good idea. Removing the brake pad exposes a setscrew that sets the sliding clearance and this also might need adjustment
Jack, I replaced the cable and that did the trick!! You're amazing. Thank you...again.
quote:
Originally posted by Kevin Perry:
Jack, I replaced the cable and that did the trick!! You're amazing. Thank you...again.
I think the free movement of the cable is very important. I replaced everything on the handbrake system excluding the handle and the calipers and it all works fine. You can see the detail at http://www.panteraplace.com/page137.htm
Mike
When I cut my bracket loose & made it removeable so the big Aviaid oil pan could be removed, I found (on my car anyway) that the angle of the bellcrank under the car was semi-critical in getting enough leverage to lock the wheels. Too much angle one way & the holding power dropped noticably. Something more to check....