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To duplicate Bobby Byars GM conversion brake booster, the thing needs to be completely stripped and the stud pattern on the pedal side weld-converted from GM 3-stud SAE to a 4-stud metric to match DeTomaso's bolt pattern. Then reassembled and gold-alodined.

How Bobby did all this for the price he charged, I have no clue- and it had a warranty. The matched aluminum master cylinder was included.  Inside one MS port is a 'keep-alive' check valve about the size of a very thick nickel for the front calipers, I always remove those since I had such a valve stick, once upon a time.

Otherwise, the only thing to watch out for (in shipping) is the vulnerable plastic valve on the pedal side is not not damaged. I never asked what model of GM it came off of- sorry. Mostly just check the booster OD to be sure it fits under the Pantera hood; not much clearance and the GM is slightly larger. Good luck-.

I test drove a Pantera for someone not long ago and there was little if any vacuum to the brake booster.  The car had good brakes.  The brake pedal was quite firm and the calipers seemed to be working correctly.  The hydraulics seemed healthy.  Without power assist it took ample effort to slow the car and it took me by surprise how much the booster helps.  I think I could drive a car without power brakes but I would need to be prepared for that type of braking.  It's easy to try out.  Just disconnect the brake booster hose and cap off the manifold or carb.

I've tried running without a booster but found the pedal was just too heavy to be comfortable. I'm not saying it's not possible but with my calipers and CNC dual master setup, the pedal was just too heavy. I believe the root cause was that there isn't enough leverage with the Pantera's "short" brake pedal. With a longer pedal, such as SACC's aftermarket "racing" pedal setup, the pedal effort, without a booster, is reasonable. 

I did not actually count the number of pumps that it took to get to 15 inches vacuum but it was a lot.  I continued to pump once it leveled out at 15 inches and did not get any more vacuum.  I am thinking there may be a leak.  My next step is to get the car warmed up and then check manifold vacuum with the booster connected and then with it disconnected and the manifold capped off.  The vacuum reading should not change.  If it increases with the booster disconnected then there's a leak.

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