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Thank you Garth,

I am trying my best to preserve this Pantera but I am not a professional crafts man. Just a hobbyist that can hold a screwdriver without getting injured. Had a few rodeos in life with cars and motorcycles, many lessons learned, and the right tools acquired over the years. Here are some projects that I finished prior of the Pantera.

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  • Superlite SLC
  • 1972 Kawasaki H2
  • 1963 Corvette FI
@#4164 posted:

Thank you Rene,

I appreciate the compliment. The interior wasn't exactly cheap but a Pantera is worth it.



Today I pre-fitted the passenger side rocker, again only held in place by sheet metal screws. I cannot ask for a better fit, especially from a handmade part. Gaps turned out really nice on both sides. Time to heat up the spot welder...

I did pretty much the same thing on mine a few years ago and it was finally finished a few weeks ago.

Last edited by rene4406

Today, 4164 was bolted onto its body cart, strapped onto a trailer and hauled across the state where it will receive its chemical dip over the next few weeks.  I was on a six-month waiting list.

I have added a video link for the place which does the job. They finished another 1972 not too long ago.

Chemical Dipping a 1972 De Tomaso Pantera to remove all the paint and rust (youtube.com)

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Last edited by #4164

The time has come to put #4164 into E-coating (electrophoretic deposition). This will preserve the car especially in areas that are hollow and inaccessible. The chemical dip revealed only very minor rust areas and needed rework, which will be addressed when the car has returned home. Luckily no evidence of any accidents or panel replacements. A good feeling that there were no surprises waiting for me under that paint and the car has such excellent substance.

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  • E-Coat prep #1
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#4164 is back home after its 2 1/2-month journey from Pittsburgh to Indiana and back to Yardley, PA. I started to take a close look at what the acid had left me. And while rust free, there is now no hiding from reality. #4164 survived the treatment well. For a 52-year-old unrestored vehicle, not bad at all. Floors, front trunk, S - braces, frame rails, roof, all there and don't need to be touched. Some areas with pitting and material loss which needs addressing, but again, could be much worse. The leaded areas on the car are in really bad shape and it became clear why Panteras cracking in certain areas. The factory lead was found fatigued and had partially delaminated from the body.  I found one thing that needed to be taken care of first. The rear crossmember had seen better times as on so many other Panteras. Crushed from using it as a jack point. Some really talented mechanic masked the damage up by welding a facia plate over it to hide it. Here are the pictures of the required repairs. Back to factory appearance using 16 gauge sheet metal, MIG & spot welder and original drain hole locations.

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Last edited by #4164

After being done repairing the rear cross member, I took a closer look at my rear shock towers. Knowing this is a rust prone area on many Panteras, I don't want any surprises later on. Looking into the inside, material loss from corrosion is visible. It may not be much, but it made me drill some holes into the shock towers to measure some material thicknesses. I came to the conclusion that I am unwilling to take any risks and started cutting out the driver side first. I replaced the outside wall of the frame rail and spotwelded new material back in including corrosion protection, then made the replacement part, dimensionally and in appearance identical to the original with the addition of some drain holes. I almost fell off the chair when I was told those parts are $500 per side at Hall.  It took a moment to make the driver side, it's my first but it perfectly fits and full 16-gauge material with full strength is back where it belongs. The passenger side will much faster. Material cost $30 for both sides from Lowes. Currently only tacked on, this is still work in progress and there will be additional posts along the way...

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Last edited by #4164

Thank you for your interest. The tools required are not very involved. You need a hammer and dolly kit, a brake that can handle up to 16 - gauge steel, real good welding equipment and a curve metal shear. Patience and expect to fail before you succeed. Practice on waste material and work with thin gauge metal or paper templates.

Here is the finished driver side shock tower. Completely welded in as factory. When painted, the repair should be invisible.

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