Thermostat

If you have the warm-up bypass in the block or pump blocked, my understanding of the hole drilling is to assist air trapped in the heads to come out, not to encourage circulation. But since I 've never drilled my thermostats nor use the pre-drilled ones, I can't say what the effect will be on your engine.

interesting question--I also ordered the weiand water pump--anyone used a generic thermostat with this application??

I have the Weiand Aluminum pump installed, with the port blocked. You Want to have the circulation bypass port Blocked! This will make 100% of the water flow through the radiator. The reason for the bypass is so the engine will warm-up faster on cold winter mornings(and in so doing help with smog emmisions). When blocked, it will just take a couple of minutes more to do so. I have installed a 180 degree thermostat. At the time I did not drill one or two 1/8" holes through the rim, but the next time I have it out, I intend to, so that there will be NO trapped air/steam under it before it opens. And NO the holes are NOT intended to aid circulation; or to cause the thermostat to open any quicker. Marlin.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 05-20-2004).]

Marlin... Are you talking about blocking the brass restrictor just under the thermostat ?
I have the same set up and I'm having a problem at idle with the car getting hotter than I like.

Hi Creecy! Yes! IN A WAY, I am speaking of blocking the brass restrictor plate in that the Weiand pump has NO port for any flow of water through the orifice! SO in that way the restrictor plate IS blocked. So there is no need to worry about having it installed! As said previously, Having it blocked will help in cooling just a little, as 100% water flow is going forward to the Radiator. BUT!! Nothing will help your overheating problem as long as you still have your "weak", stock fans in place! Just Switching to a good pair of aftermarket fans will increase your cooling air flow by 4 Times! This is what you need when your stopped and ideling in traffic. People who know, recommend having the Fans "Suck"-through the rad. Mine are the "Miriya" veriety, are mounted on the stock fan mounts, and "Push" air through. I have had NO problems with them out here in the California Central Valley during the summer. After that you may think about going to a newer Radiator. Mine is still original, but I do expect it to fail at anytime. Good-Luck! Marlin.

...Also; as Jack D. has mentioned, check your pressure tank cap for leaking!!! A cooling system that can not hold it's Pressure WILL boil over. That's just the laws of physics. AND don't forget a 50/50 mixture of water to "Anti-Boil"! This Raises the temperature point at which the Coolant CAN boil. I use distilled/purified water,(YES, you can buy it at the grocery store), and 'PRESTONE' Anti-Freeze/Boil. So Check that cap, and be sure to bleed the air out(you MUST get all of the Air out, because air just does not cool as efficient as Liquid), and remember all of our Temp gauges are inaccurate! My rule is "If it isn't spitting into the overflow(second)tank; it's NOT too hot. And it WILL spit if that pressure cap is not a perfect seal. All the best, Marlin.

Don't forget the WaterWetter. It also helps heat transfer even with antifreeze. It is available at any place that sells Redline products.

Marlin... Thanks for the reply. You answered my question and confirmed what I thought about that orifice. I have aftermarket fans,fluidyne rad and autometer guages with matching senders. I brought the mixture from 50/50 to 25/75 and added water wetter and it helped a bunch. 165 running on the interstate and never got over 205 at idle.