Well, here I go again! Bound for AZ in April!

Tonight was the time to drop my engine back into the frame for the umpteenth time! Hopefully it will be the last time for some 100K miles or so! The frame is all welded up and pimped out again, and the ZF is back together and sealed up properly, waiting patiently to slip into place.

The weather has been/is threatening to be a nasty weekend, so seeing as I have to move the motorcycle outdoors, along with a pile of other misc garage stuff...to get the hoist in the proper position to drop the engine in place, I decided to make a go of it tonight! Temps were mild, no wind, and no wetness!

Started setting up at 8:30 and by 9:15 the engine was attached to the DeTomaso frame mount adapters, and I was putting the hoist away! WOW! Paint loss was minimal...but then it was just me....one mm at a time...and a bunch of strategically placed towels and old t-shirts to cushion things... push... look... lower... adjust...drop another mm or two....push...look.... move a hose..... etc!

If anyone needs specific pictures of a car going back together, or information, please advise before the weekend! I intend on installing the clutch and ZF this Sat. ...during the expected rain...but I should be high and dry as the ZF install, when using the hoist, can go in straight from the rear. No clearing of the garage required!

I also recently spent a lot of time on the pilot bearing adapter and it's relationship to the clutch disc etc. I intend on putting together a tech article for the POCA newsletter with all that I find in it. Should help the next Goose or early Pantera owner out! Easy things to check with a wire type feeler gauge set and in other cases, simple bits of modeling clay! But I'll outline how to do it with proper measuring tools....the clay will just double check your math skills!

I'm working with my clutch guy to come up with a Goose/-1 specific clutch disc with Kevlar friction surfaces on both sides. I really like the way that this engages and doesn't tear the hell out of the flywheel or the pressure plate! Nice and smooth! I know that others out there will like it too! The disc I have currently is not without it's issues in terms of being an exact fit but I have worked around the issues sufficiently. Right now the challenge is to find a proper blank to start with...that doesn't require a lot of machining!

I found that when you surface a flywheel, or replace one, or replace a clutch disc, you should be checking a couple of critical areas for proper clearance to allow for the friction surfaces of the disc and flywheel to wear without causing unwanted contact between the clutch disc hub and the pilot bearing adapter!

Original Post
Good luck on the installation.
On my clutch we resurfaced the existing plate which fit well. This was done by a supplier of race hardware. You are probably using a hydraulic bearing.
When you write your work up why not submit it to Dana on Mangusta International? he has his site up again after the big crash. I know you had tech articles on there before and I am sure they are also going back up.
I will pass this on to him also.
All the best, Dick Ruzzin.

I am not using a hydraulic T/O bearing and never would. Just my personal preference. Sort of like my passion to use DuraSpark II's over the aftermarket versions.... Why fix something if it isn't broke? OR let the big company do the engineering work!

Anyway, my original disc was long gone and there was some mess in there before this one. I would like to find an original disc, but popular rumor has it that they are 10".

The one I have now is a 10.4" and a better unit than some out there.

We'll see what turns up! There certainly is a lot of it out there!!

Update: Engine is in, trans is in place and most everything is back together in terms of fuel, wiring, and coolant hoses.

Have a good list of things to do including replacing u-joints in the half shafts, putting the mufflers back in place etc.

Also bought a new battery this weekend! Was going to hygiene my old one as it was seeping a little bit around the caps etc, when I figured I'd check my receipt pile to see when I purchase it. The battery was still holding out strong, but was not holding the charge while I was not using the car.....for extended periods..... Found the receipt...almost 13 years! Time for a new one!

Well, this turned out to be not such an easy task! Seems that Sears no longer carries the particular battery that I was using, a 34/78 dual post version. Actually, they did have one, but at $240 with reviews complaining of the side post mounts breaking off...nope! Not going there!

Not wanting to drive all over town at $4+ a gallon of gas, I naturally turned to the internet to help me out. Well, unless you have an exact fit, ie year and model that the battery fits, you are basically SOL on most websites now! Gone are the good ol' days of getting cold cranking amp specs, external dimensions etc from the O'Riely and others sites.

Eventually I happened across a link on the Walmart site that let me cruise by battery manufacturer. There I found a Champion branded 78 series that had 800CCA and dimensions that were close to my old battery! BUT, there's always a but....the website said "limited stock" for my closest store...and calls to that store and others were met with inability to check stock, and other such nonsense...long waits, no answers..... eventually I found a store that had one, 10 miles up the road. I had to go past the closest store to get there, so figured I'd stop in and just check real quick like. Wife said she wanted something, so piled her and the battery in the truck and off we went!

The store did have a battery in stock (but not listed on the shelves! A #9 in the Walmart collection of Champion batteries) and I went and grabbed my old one to exchange on the core. Turns out the new battery is almost if not a perfect match in size to my old one! Scary how similar it looked....but then my web searches told me that there is really only one or two battery manufacturers left on this continent....

Stretched out the credit card, left my old battery, and hauled my butt out of that crazy place and back home! I had saved the little plastic "battery adapter" that came with my old one to make it higher....and the new one snapped right in place! I took it off again, cleaned it up with some baking soda and water and wiped it all down to look halfway decent!

Cleaned up the battery tray a bit with the soda and water thing, dried it, sanded and wire brushed a couple of small spots where the old paint had bubbled/lifted, and re-coated it with Eastwood's Battery Tray coating, a sort of rubberized paint to keep the oxidation down caused by battery acid.

While the paint was drying using a drop-light to warm the stuff, I decided to mess with my question of "proper rear shock absorber selection". Having cracked both of my upper shock mounts, the question came up as to if I had enough clearance in two areas, 1) the rubber travel limiters that I put on the shock shaft, and 2) spring bind.

After measuring and marking so I could return the spring to where I started, I removed it.
I mounted the shock back to the frame and used a floor jack to lift the tire up into the frame to the point where the shock travel contacted the travel bumpers. I still have bellhousing clearance at this point, using a level to check for ground clearance. I lift the tire even more to the point where zero ground clearance would be and measured the shock length. One last push on the jack gave me about as much as one could lift a wheel into the wheel arch (tire rubbing!) and was now starting to lift the chassis up. At this point, my bellhousing was about a half inch "below ground" indicating that if my shock compressed this much, I'd be dragging my bellhousing or darned close too it!

After I reassembled my spring on the shock, I measured my clearance between the coils. Depending on how you counted, there were 9 or 10 coil "gaps" to allow for compression. To give myself some room...I chose to use only 9 gaps.... Once I calculated the amount the shock moved to various points, ie zero clearance and minus clearance, the values still came in less than 9 times the coil gaps. Had I used 10 gaps, I would have had even more clearance, so I doubt that coil bind was my problem.

It is very possible that the rubber bumpers could have compressed and caused the frame brackets to crack, but man, you're getting down to the end of the ruler here and playing with less than 1/4" measurements..... I would hope that the rubber bumpers could have compressed under the shock of the bump we hit and tolerated the shock....

What I do know is that under normal circumstances, I have about 4.5" of shock travel from full rest (no load) to full compression..... (6" travel shock!) This was pretty close to what the stock shock had IIRC. I'll measure the shock length when I have the load back on it and go from there but I believe I'm sitting in the upper middle of travel when the chassis is loaded.

Weather has cooled quite a bit, but I think tonight I can work with the garage doors shut and get started on the u-joints and mufflers!

Also need to put a new seal in my clutch slave cylinder! That too is about 13 years old!!!

Steve, I read of your problems with upper rubber bushings cracking. I find that strange because there's far more weight on the lower rubbers. I wasted 3 sets of stock lower rubber bushings and one set of poly bushings on the Pantera before I finally got disgusted with changing them and went to Heim-jointed Konis. And our rear end is lighter than yours....(no remarks from the Peanut Gallery!) There was no detectable increase in road noise from the solid mounted Konis.
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