tech manual says for replacing timing chain
1. remove engine
2. etc etc etc
looks like I can get the parts out without engine removal--anyone have experience with this operation
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Correct- you can get the timing chain and sprockets out without removing the engine. The trick is to slack off the oil pan bolts a few turns, not take the pan off completely (for which one must pull the engine if the rear crossmember has not been altered). This allows one to pull the cover. When putting things back, add a dab of sliicone sealant to each corner of the pan-to-cover seal areas. I suggest a double-roller timing chan set (chain plus both sprockets) because they are stronger with increased life, and the new crank sprocket will have multiple key slots for adjusting your cam timing. A True-roller type is best of all since it not only has the larger pins, it has rollers on those pins for less friction.
Thanks for the info--already figured it out today--might be sorry but putting this "quiet" gear drive in for kicks and grins--let you know if it makes too much noise. Installed weiand 2v intake and holly 600--weiand water pump--removed crossmember--tacked a temp brace so nothing moves until I fabricate a removable one--should have 7367 running by next weekend--suspension is next
got to see timing chain today--no wonder motor backfired--chain had 3/4 to 1 inch stretch--could move crank 2 teeth either way before cam moved--30k on speedometer--original plastic cam gear(I think) etc,-installing gear drive this weekend (I know the associated arguments on this idea) with all new hoses, water pump,carb and intake and rebuilt distributer--bet it runs better--haven't seen the need for new lower ball joints yet--but someone on ebay has a set for 245--anyone comment on that being a good investment? I read all the balljoints can be drilled and tapped with zerk fittings--never have done that--any special suggestions?
snip....
All the ball joints and tie-rod ends need zerks, as does the lower rear pivot shaft bushings to prolong their lives IMHO. Some of the balljoints have a depressed center so the zerk should be added to a 1/2" long stand-off or extension, or you won't be able to get a grease-gun on the fitting.
All the ball joints and tie-rod ends need zerks, as does the lower rear pivot shaft bushings to prolong their lives IMHO. Some of the balljoints have a depressed center so the zerk should be added to a 1/2" long stand-off or extension, or you won't be able to get a grease-gun on the fitting.
Can the zerk fittings be installed without disassembling everything (again)?
All the zerrks except the lower rear pivot shaft can be done while the car is fully assembled. Zerks are threaded 1/4-28 and you'll likely only get about two thtreads cut into the thin steel, but that seems to be enough. Grease the tap, go slowly & any remaining small bits don't seem to cause trouble. I did mine in the late '80s & have yet to feel any looseness on anything. IMHO, the pivot shaft greasing needs distribution holes drilled thru the inner spacer, so save that one for your next axle or wheel bearing rebuild back there.