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Just coincidently, Jack and Dan Jones just addressed this topic when I asked about head work under the post titled "Valves". Hope it helps.

quote:
Originally posted by r mccall:
Does anyone see any reason not to use titanium valves on the street? I have a chance to buy a ARCA race engine (12:1 comp,roller cam,Yates heads,dry sump,730+hp,etc.....)Does anyone see any reason not to think this would be a good street engine with a few changes?
Thanks

The belt-drive external oil pump in a dry sump setup is vulnerable to debris damage, and since the underbody airflow in a Pantera is up past the front of the engine where the belt is, then out the rear window area, this should be a major concern. Dry-sumps wre developed for racing to eliminate oil slosh in cornering, and to be able to lower the engine again for racing. the 14 or 16 qts of oil they must carry tends to oool the oil in the huge tank which will only fit in your rear trunk. IMHO, you will spend $2000 or more for a dry-sump system, when a std Avaid 10-qt pan will be trouble free, will cost less than 1/4 as much and you won't have to worry that a tiny rock will knock the toothed-belt off your pump. Literally hunderds of races have been lost on manicured racetracks this way; city streets are 100x more filthy than a track. Racing oil pumps such as the dry-sump unit on my Formula Ford must be rebuilt every 500 or so miles, by the way
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