On my black car the two large trans mounts (or bushings?) near the rear of the car supporting the trans are getting crusty. Is there a procedure for replacing them listed here or somewhere? Good, bad or ugly tips? Thanks.
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Time to sell it!!! ;-)
Ron
Ron
The big rubber vibration bushings lightly press in but require the whole mount-half to be removed for access; maybe Wilkinson has new ones. Hall I think used to sell polyurethane replacements. But as with rubber shock bushings, you'll likely find that only the extreme outer edges are oxidized, which simply means it's cosmetic damage. The main body will have been protected from air or ozone. If one area is somewhat worse than another, they can be rotated in the aluminum housings to make the 'crusty' spot(s) un-noticable. I'd wipe them with something like Armor-All to slightly swell the rubber & clean oxidation off, and call it done.
Ha ha, Ron. Maka Mea Offa$. I do have a beautiful custom Chevy for sale though: http://www.poca.com/index.php/...ery/?g2_itemId=12533
Boss, it seems I probably should have defined "crusty" better as the condition. Photo shows what I mean. I assume this was polyurethane, eaten alive by termites. I think its gots to go, and get some new ones. Yes it looks like those aluminum side mounts need to come out too to replace the bushings. I suppose I need to support the trans in some manner other than the wife holding it up? Looks like an easy fix unless I am missing something. My back just got cured from messing around under the dash of with the AC issue, so I figure I bust it up again here doing these mounts.
Boss, it seems I probably should have defined "crusty" better as the condition. Photo shows what I mean. I assume this was polyurethane, eaten alive by termites. I think its gots to go, and get some new ones. Yes it looks like those aluminum side mounts need to come out too to replace the bushings. I suppose I need to support the trans in some manner other than the wife holding it up? Looks like an easy fix unless I am missing something. My back just got cured from messing around under the dash of with the AC issue, so I figure I bust it up again here doing these mounts.
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Jan, that looks like some sort of coating on the elastomer- perhaps old aluminum spray-paint. I'd touch it with a wire brush before spending much effort removing stuff.
The ZF mounts come out with the usual brutality. They fasten to the trans with 3 studs each, so what I do is remove the 2 long horizontal bolts on both sides, remove the nuts from the 3 studs on each side, then using a long wooden 2x4, I lift/pry the whole ZF/engine sideways the 1/2" needed to slip the right-side aluminum mount over its studs. The wood lever is to keep from scratching the aluminum trans cases; others use a ball-bat or even a crowbar. If you have trouble getting the innermost nut loose, try a 3/8-drive u-joint socket of a size to fit the nut. It is short enough to get in there and handles the required misalignment.
The powertrain need not be separately supported; it will settle down perhaps 1" from its usual place & can safely stay there for days or weeks. Once the right-side one is off, the gearshift-side mount practically falls off. Your trusting wife will have little problem wiggling either casting out while you hold the 500-lb lump in position.
I'm an advocate of using studs in most areas, but in this case, I suggest substituting metric gr-5 bolts so you don't need to go through this exercise but once. Bolts do not need prying sideways to remove the mounts, which helps a lot in engine/ZF/clutch R & R, too.
The ZF mounts come out with the usual brutality. They fasten to the trans with 3 studs each, so what I do is remove the 2 long horizontal bolts on both sides, remove the nuts from the 3 studs on each side, then using a long wooden 2x4, I lift/pry the whole ZF/engine sideways the 1/2" needed to slip the right-side aluminum mount over its studs. The wood lever is to keep from scratching the aluminum trans cases; others use a ball-bat or even a crowbar. If you have trouble getting the innermost nut loose, try a 3/8-drive u-joint socket of a size to fit the nut. It is short enough to get in there and handles the required misalignment.
The powertrain need not be separately supported; it will settle down perhaps 1" from its usual place & can safely stay there for days or weeks. Once the right-side one is off, the gearshift-side mount practically falls off. Your trusting wife will have little problem wiggling either casting out while you hold the 500-lb lump in position.
I'm an advocate of using studs in most areas, but in this case, I suggest substituting metric gr-5 bolts so you don't need to go through this exercise but once. Bolts do not need prying sideways to remove the mounts, which helps a lot in engine/ZF/clutch R & R, too.
Thanks for the info. Looking at it again from a mechanical perspective maybe it isn't as bad as it looks visually. Althought that rubber or polyurethane bushing has broken off on the outsides somewhat, most of it is in place and probably doing what it needs to do. So rather than all the effort and wife involvement, maybe I will just put some silicone on the outside for appearance and I figure that would also help hold in any more of the rubber flaking and falling off. It wouldn't serve the same pressure function, but may work just to prevent more flaking and falling off since most is in tact. If it gets worse or the trans ever needs to come out, maybe then it should be done.
Or maybe some liquid rubber rather than silicone to just get the outer edges? Anyone familiar with liquid rubber products?
Liquid rubber and silicone are both difficult to shape when uncured, and are almost as hard to smooth after they set up. Since they'll be contributing nothing towards strength, I'd suggest using Gorilla Glue or even Bondo, then shape either with a file after they cure, and use black touch-up paint to finish.
Jan,
I've seen the photos and your black car is out of this World, my 2 cents is don't go cheap fixes for a $65 part! Hall lists the bushings for that and if you want to make it easy they also list blingy polished side mounts for $150, just send yours back for core charge once the job is done.
Julian
I've seen the photos and your black car is out of this World, my 2 cents is don't go cheap fixes for a $65 part! Hall lists the bushings for that and if you want to make it easy they also list blingy polished side mounts for $150, just send yours back for core charge once the job is done.
Julian
Thanks Julian, I will check it out regarding the bushings. I don't mind the cost, its just the hassle of doing the job. Without being retired its just a pain trying to find time, especially if you are not 100% sure what you are doing. Bosswrench described the process, but I am not sure I want to get into all that especially since I have never done a job like that and if I am not following the process correctly I may end up causing more damage than good. Thats why I was just considering doing more of a cosmetic fix for now since mechanically all seems ok I suppose. Or if I get the time maybe I will take it to Tommy and have him do it. In the end that may be best. From the photo it looks pretty bad, but I am right down on top if it with the camera. But still, it bothers me anyway. Didn't decide yet though for the temporary fix, as I know bondo has no flex whatsoever. Plus then I would have to admit my car has bondo 