Trans removal without removing engine

It can be done but you end up having to tilt the motor forward.  The distributor cap MUST be removed or you'll be replacing the back window.

from what I've read, keep the wings attached to the rear spine, undo the four bolts to the spine and take the entire assembly off (with the help of three other large guys) and then the entire driveline can be removed fairly easily.  (by Mangusta Standards)

MH

Yes, it is possible to remove the gearbox without removing the engine. I did it last week-end (photo). I kept the exhaust system installed which prevents the engine from tilting excessively with removed gearbox. You have to remove the A/C cooler and tilt the engine a bit. Use a lifting device to remove the gearbox slowly. You will need every mm of clearance but it is just enough to remove the gearbox.

Brgds

SIG 

I often miss this, because the forum doesn't make it clear, but he is discussing the removal of a Mangusta driveline package. 

So while similar, some info may not be applicable.

I got caught trying to help the guy on the parking brake....  About 50% of what I wrote was useful to the OP, but he was gracious about it!!

Rocky

Guys, thanks you (and ALL info is gratefully received !!).

We've had the engine and trans as one out of the car a number of times but were trying to shortcut rather than have to take engine out as well (again!)

Should maybe have also said car now running 4 x 48IDA's so will need to look at whether they would when engine is tilted.  We'll be gentle.....

cheers

It can be done. Not too bad a job either. LarryW and I did it to mine with the 180 headers still on.   Where there is a will there is a way. 

Not a complicated job. I have done it with basic tools and a little help. Only need to remove alternator and push ac pump out of the way. No need to remove condenser. Caution just remove locking pin in shift linkage that way no need to readjust afterwards. 

Thanks for advice about locking pin Denis, I'll let workshop know!

cheers

I use a 1x4 between the flywheel and the back of theoil pan to hold the rear of the engine up as high as I can.  I have done it a few times.

2x4 not necessary on a Mangusta, plus you will need to get under there to mate the transmission into to clutch (at least that’s the way I did it). 

I miss the days when the internet used to do all that you wanted it to do.....not what it wants you to do.......

Second try....where was I.....

OK do NOT remove both hatches at the same time as suggested.    Yes you can do it.  But why risk damaging all that expensive glass?

Remove one of the sides by removing the 4 fasteners that retain it to the spine hinges.....move it to secure storage.

Now remove the 4 bolts that hold the spine in place!   I used masking tape at various spots next to the spine attaching points to mark where the spine was before I took it off. (Tip:  Use blue or green (frog) masking tape to help prevent damage to the paint that regular tan tape can cause.)  Now with the help of a buddy, remove this hatch to safe storage.

When you put this back together, the tape will help with alignment of the spine. The 4 bolts for the "removed hatch" really can't go anywhere other than where they were, so any realignment will be next to nothing.....if any.

Removing trans:

You do not need to remove engine to do clutch job. But you must remove trans, then bellhousing, and finally the clutch. Be careful with that SPECIAL pilot bearing extender!!!!   New needle bearings can be had for about $5-6.  I found teeny tiny rubber seals too.....   Onwards....

Remove 8-axle flange bolts, move axles back out of way.

Remove exhaust flange bolts at mufflers. Should not need to remove mufflers.

Remove speedo cable from 90 degree adapter(!!!) Do not remove the adapter from the trans if you don't need to!  There is a gear that can fall out of place when you do this....if you are lucky, it falls out....if you are unlucky, you get to go fishing in your ZF for the part!  (Typically this applies more to Pantera ZF where it is mounted wrong side up....)  Easier just to unscrew the cable and sheathing...  (New speedo cables are available from vendors)

Remove clutch slave cylinder bolts (2) from side of bellhousing, move cylinder and push rod out of way.

Loosen engine mount nuts from rubber mounts/biscuits.

Remove distributor cap and rotor rearward to safe area on top of engine. Maybe removed oil dipstick..... watch for this hitting anything when you tip engine forward!  Watch for top jackshaft pulley interference also!

Remove engine front radiator connections. (Drain....)

Remove ground cable from rear of trans.

Loosen bolts on ZF crossmember........remove nuts to safe storage.....

Remove the shifter linkage roll pin from the ZF shifter shaft.  Use a hammer and suitable sized punch AND BACK IT UP with another piece of heavy steel so that you are not hammering the shaft against the expensive ZF alloy shifter housing boss unsupported(!)......  You really need something to absorb the shock.....  Easy does it!  Once the roll pin is out, the u-joint assy should slide forward and off of the ZF shaft.  Debur and grease this all upon reassembly.

NOTE: Now that I look at my pictures, it appears that I may have simply unthreaded the shifter shaft knuckle at the trans this particular time.   I had done it with the roll pin removal in the past, apparently not this time! Loosen the locknuts to make this happen.....

Here my procedure gets a little fuzzy!!!   My pictures show that the upper shock ladder bar is removed.  I cannot recall if I did this specifically, or if this was purely the way I was reassembling the car from having EVERYTHING out of the engine bay!  I do not recall if you "must" remove the ladder bar or if you can sneak the trans out underneath it......   I believe that I was going to remove the bellhousing (because I forgot (DUH!) to install my one piece rear main seal!!!) to access the rear of the engine for some work......ooops....so everything had to come out!  

SINCE THIS IS A CLUTCH JOB ( I went back and checked!)......EVERYTHING MUST COME OUT!  Starter......bolts at lower front of bellhousing......alternator, AC pump.... smog pump if so equipped......

If you must remove the ladder bar..... remove the inner two bolts (if so equipped, early cars will not have them...only the outer shock bolts) and then working on one side, remove the shock bolt completely, lift the ladder bar up and put the bolt back in place to hold the shock, otherwise the entire shock/axle/hub carrier/brake caliper/rotor will be hanging in the breeze!  Do the same to the other side, and the ladder bar should be "loose".  I don't think you can remove it completely yet, you need to lift the engine/bellhousing to get it out.  If I recall correctly.

Using an engine hoist, you can either go in directly from rear if your boom extends far enuf to center over ZF, OR if you have a fixed boom, you can go in at an angle from the side straddling the rear tire.  Put the rear wheels up on a 4x4 block OR put the frame on jackstands and remove a rear wheel for access. (if you have removed the upper ladder bar by now, you likely have the chassis on jack stands..... as you need to suspend the hub carriers to remove the shock bolts.....)

Using a length of seatbelt or nylon strapping, wrap around the ZF and secure to hoist hook.  You can now put a little "up" pressure on the ZF and pull the 4 bolts from the ZF crossmember, then remove crossmember.

Again, check for interference up front of the engine....pulley....distributor body....dipstick....

Now you can continue to lift rear of trans to clear the little bracket for the spare tire area. Do not lift more than you need to! Watch so that you are not hooked on the rear ground strap stud with the rear of the ZF case!  This can happen if you pull the trans back too early!

As suggested, place blocking under the bottom of the bellhousing at the lower frame cross member to hold the block up for the rest of the operation. Lower hoist down so that the wood is holding some of the weight.  Or used jackstands from under the car if frame is already on jackstands......  Using wood allows lowering of chassis with engine in tilted position...

The 4 ZF to bellhousing nuts can now be removed, which will release the ZF from the bellhousing with a little jiggling and pulling.  The ZF should slide back and out easily.  You may need to rotate it a bit to clear chassis bits......but easy does it!!!!

If something feels like it isn't moving right.....look and see what may be blocking it...... You could run into interference with the upper ladder bar/shock brace a nd the bellhousing....so watch that area.....

Now you should have a very heavy transaxle swinging from your hoist!  BE CAREFUL and do not drop it!!!  Hang on to it when moving the hoist around........... Lower it carefully to a wood resting bed or dolly.......

If you are continuing to remove bellhousing.....that's another chapter!!!!

As always, I reserve the right to have forgotten something.........!  If I recall anything I missed, I will edit post.

Ciao!!!   Good luck!

Thanks Steve that’s a very comprehensive reply!! I’ll pass it on.

cheers