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GL4 80W-90 is what the factory recommended, but it is hard to locate. Most local stores only stock GL5 gear lube. There is Pennzoil synthetic 75W-90 GL4 that I used and it has worked great, especially cold. And now Brad Penn has introduced a non-synthetic 80W-90 GL4 that was designed for older manual transmissions and transaxles. Manual gear boxes do not normally need to be flushed, just drained and new fluid put in.

http://www.penngrade1.com/Prod...s/GL4-SAE-80W90.aspx

http://www.mil-specproducts.co...SYNTHETIC-75W90-GL-4
I agree with the Redline. It makes this thing shift like it is new. Tight, precise, less strange noises.

It has not caused gasket leaks for me. I have been told that it is common to have a drip or two on the nuts on the rear cover after it has been apart on a rebuild.

That involves o-rings on the studs like a Holley carb has on the fuel bowls. If it leaks and has no o-rings, put them on the studs that are leaking. Usually it's just a drip but it will do this with regular non-synthetic oil also.
I use whats-on-sale diff lube in 80W90 with LSD additive. The ZF is not too fussy about its lube, except for viscosity. As far as flushing, its pretty much impossible due to the number of dams and crevices inside. I once pulled a ZF, took the bottom plate and nose off and stood it on end in a bucket over the weekend to drain it. When I separated the cases for gear repair, about a pint of old lube went all over the floor... So if you or anyone else 'drains' your ZF, be assured that it will NOT be empty and when refilling, it will not hold as much fluid as the manuals say. Just fill to the bottom of the plug hole- and that may take 2 or 3 tries as lube flows inside to its preferred levels. Remember- too much lube will only make a mess by expanding out the breather. Too little will wreck the assembly.
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