U-Joint/Driveshaft damage repair

Angelo, around the drive shaft opening it seems like you could repair that with a generous supply of oxygen and acetylene, some punch and chisel work, and some odd bits welded in. See what it looks like after you get all the bondo and undercoating off all around. If you find rust too, then a wheel house patch is in order.

I wonder what caused that cross member damage - road rash, poor jacking, both? You can get some of those dents out by drilling holes on the side opposite the damage to get at it with a punch, then heat it red hot and bang them out from the inside. There was an article in the POCA newsletter recently about strengthening this area for jacking and better support for the sway bar mounts. Maybe you can adapt that to repair and / or hide that damage.

Part of the answer lies in how fussy you care to be about the appearance of the finished job. Also, now would be the time to do the removable crossmember under the oil pan.

I'll be working on this area of my car too, but you will be done before I get that far. Wish I could be of more help. Rodney

I just finished cleaning out the wheel side of the area down to the metal, going for the bondo area today. It does not look QUITE as bad now as it did in the posted pics. I will see how the metal shapes up, but I want to keep that area strong, if I need a patch panel I'll get it.

Luckily, I have found literally NO RUST at all since starting this back end cleanup! I have been scrapping and scrubbing that rust proofing gunk for the past couple of weeks! The heavy stuff in the engine compartment took only a day to remove, the scrubbing is taking all of the time, but that is because I have a bit of O.C.D. when it comes to doing things throughly. I am planning on finishing the back area in a satin black finish I guess (keep changing my mind).

I think the crossmember mangling was from jacking on the bottom and a hit from something by the previous owner. I am going to most likely box it in with heavier guage metal since evidently the member is no longer available. That should take care of any future jacking mistakes in the future.

I am undecided about the removable crossmember. I know it is a good decision IF I ever PLANNED on removing the pan while it is in the car, BUT I figure if I have to pull the pan I might as well pull the engine at that time and do any other maintenance or cleaning while it is out. The engine comes out so fast and easy anyway, ask me in a couple of years and my thought process will be a bit different I'm sure.

I HOPED on being done with the car next week. Riiight. That was before the metal work find and the upgrades, and the 'while I am at it' fixes. Just hope I am done this month. Need to get back on my other project that WAS supposed to be done for Daytona in November, not gonna happen now.

Angelo

quote:

The heavy stuff in the engine compartment took only a day to remove, the scrubbing is taking all of the time, but that is because I have a bit of O.C.D. when it comes to doing things throughly.

It's been a long time since I did that deed but it's one you don't forget. For removing the residual after the bulk of the undercoating, I never found any thing that worked better nor nearly as fast than a good old wire wheel on a pneumatic drill. It took a few wire wheels but they inexpensive and after the bulk had been removed, only about a day to have bare metal from there.

Best,
Kelly

Oh yeah, I won't forget this project until the day I expire! I haven't used the wire wheel much, been mostly using Laquar thinner and coarse steel wool, just washes off. Only have to be careful of the fumes, keep the garage door open and the fans on! Good gloves and facemask. Have a video piece of the process I have been using I might post for other poor puppies that want to do that project, good or bad. I was not planning on doing the inner wheel wells, but after finding the extent of the metal damage here I figure 'while I'm at it' strikes again.

Just gotta figure what color I want to do the engine bay in. I'm not too good on visualizing end result of colors and such. Gotta have pictures.

Angelo

Just a thought; try mineral spirits & a coarse scotch brite pad. Spirits is less costly & smelly than lacquer thinner.

Angelo

Mineral spirits work very well, it doesn't evaporate as fast as lacquer thinner.

Don't plan on Daytona this year as they are repaving it right now. The event was canceled some time ago.

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by ehpantera:

Don't plan on Daytona this year as they are repaving it right now. The event was canceled some time ago.

I heard of the repaving and went and logged onto the Daytona web site. The turkey run is still on according to the site and I got an email saying they are adding a bike section this year. Go figure. I think the economy is hurting a lot of the larger venues now. Also I believe they are having an auction with the normal car corral. I might go just to take a break I don't think my car will be back together by then.

But I'm TRYING!

Angelo

Been slowly chugging along with the repairs and am now into smoothing out the engine bay and filling holes. Was wondering and thinking of filling these 2 holes. I have seen the small lower one filled but was wondering about the larger one above it. Is there any reason for it to even be there? Has anyone filled theirs and have a pic of it? Now would be the time for me to do this.



Thanks,
Angelo

Angelo, great job on the sheet metal. Not sure I would close off those holes. I would consider the ventilation that it provides to let air in for drying in case water somehow seeps into the area. Also it gives you an opening to spray rust converting chemicals into the area every few years if necessary. Although the hole also provides a nice place for water to enter.

quote:

Originally posted by ANGELO B:
..... but was wondering about the larger one above it. Is there any reason for it to even be there? Has anyone filled theirs and have a pic of it? Now would be the time for me to do this.


Thanks,
Angelo

After spending some quality time in my engine compartment as well, I believe the large holes are a large "rosette" to allow the spot welder more area to tie the sheet metal layers together. There is a ring of spot welds all around the periphery. It is there as a manufacturing necessity.

Thanks for the replys, a friend came over with his toy and wouldn't you know it, his are welded over, think I am going for more metal today. Thought I knew his car inside out.

Every time I see that car I find more to do on mine, damn.

Angelo

quote:

Angelo, great job on the sheet metal. Not sure I would close off those holes. I would consider the ventilation that it provides to let air in for drying in case water somehow seeps into the area. Also it gives you an opening to spray rust converting chemicals into the area every few years if necessary. Although the hole also provides a nice place for water to enter.

I would fill them. I think it looks better, IMHO.
As far as applying rustproofing in that lower cavity, there should be drain holes in the bottom of that area that would allow you to spray into.
Will

Mine are filled. Cant think of a downside to closing them.

Sitting here watching the super bowl and surfing the site and noticed, your brake lines are not going thru the fender holes. How do you have them routed and secured? Dare I break out the welder yet again? I gotta stop finding more stuff to do and put my puppy back together.

You have a picture looking from the fender back to the tail lights and condenser?

Angelo

Angelo, consider what happens if something 'silly' happens- like the oil pump driveshaft being installed upside down? It will work fine that way....until someone removes the distributor. Then the shaft, being in upside-dowm- will pull up with the distributor, then fall into the oil pan. With your welded crossmember, instead of just pulling the pan and reinstalling it and the oil pump correctly, you must pull the whole engine. There are other similar scenarios like changing the oil pump that can and have happened, to argue for a removeable crossmember. The factory did this for all Panteras built after about 1975. The dropped battery holder in the front trunk is another factory upgrade that can be easily applied to earlier Panteras.
I also suggest you drill the three 1/2" water drain holes in the bottom of both the rear frame rails, and 3/8" drain holes in the very bottom of both legs of the 'horse-shoe' shaped support members that mount the upper a-arms (one was wrinkled in your driveshaft explosion). When you drill, you'll be amazed at the volume of talcum-powder-fine dirt and rust that falls out. Also reach in the top of the right side frame rail access hole with a magnet and there's no telling what debris you'll find. I've found spark plugs, washers, old bolts and even a fair sized rock!
The busted stud for the rear swaybar is not exactly a stud: it's a disc-head weld-bolt inserted before the crossmember was welded into the car. You can drill it out from the rear, cut a larger matching hole in the front side of the crossmember and slide a std hex bolt in, then hold the hex with a socket wrench while tightening up the nut to hold your swaybar.

Thanks for the insight and tips, I have been struggling with the notion of reworking that crossmember, guess I will revisit the idea.

I've pretty much finished the upright repair added metal to the inside of the tubes and they are drilled and primed.

I cut out the studs and inserted a threaded plate like Tom @ seal beach described a while back.

Think I will do a search for the lowered battery box you describe, that would be nice... more trunk room.

I am fighting with a front A/C condenser install, just can't seem to get enough clearance for the condenser so the radiator will have clearance for a fan shroud without moving the lower radiator mounts. I am afraid there will not be enough free air room with the fans and hoses for the air to actually flow without adding hood vents. I know others had made this conversion, I must be just missing something.

Thanks again,

Angelo