Well, SHOOT!
I just went and found and bought 4 quarts of the Castrol Hypoy 80-90 GL5 that RBT and others suggested, but I was also very interested in the "Shock Proof" medium and heavy Red Line offerings as well.
Just wasn't sure if I wanted to switch to synthetic, or just go with what the old-schoolers suggested.
I found "Brad Penn" 80-90 GL4 too that was also in the running, I know Brad Penn oil is good stuff, at least their engine oils are.
My gearbox shifts as smooth as butter right now. My guess is it probably has the Castrol in it now.
Of course I want to keep it that way, but I do like the idea of running the Red Line Heavy Shock Proof, if it has some advantage over the Castrol or Brad Penn Dino oils. I like the sound of running a heavier weight oil, but I don't know if that would be better or not.
Then there's the Red Line MTL oil as well that has also been suggested.
I still have time, I can return the Castrol, and get any of the other brands discussed here.
Hmmm, decisions, decisions.
I wish I was able to feel other's shifting, so I could compare my shifting, and how it feels compared to others.
I'm a smooth, methodical type shifter, not a speed or jam shifter, just smooth and easy and consistent. I find if you try to shift too fast some gearboxes aren't happy with that.
That said, my box shifts into every gear smoothly, no nicks or grinds, but I feel an overall stiffness through the lever, like the shaft needs lubrication. That's my only complaint (not really a complaint) I just feel that once I get in there and lube the shaft bushings things will feel better.
I may try the Red Line offerings, just to see how they feel. If I don't like it I can always switch back to non synthetic.
Seems though like now now I have a number of confirmed "This will work OK in your ZF" gear oils to choose from.
Which brand I end up will probably be as big a surprise to you as it is to me, but, like I said, maybe I'll just try all of them and see which one I like best.
Thanks for all the tips and information.
I'm a smooth, methodical type shifter, not a speed or jam shifter, just smooth and easy and consistent. I find if you try to shift too fast some gearboxes aren't happy with that.
That said, my box shifts into every gear smoothly, no nicks or grinds, but I feel an overall stiffness through the lever, like the shaft needs lubrication. That's my only complaint (not really a complaint) I just feel that once I get in there and lube the shaft bushings things will feel better.
I may try the Red Line offerings, just to see how they feel. If I don't like it I can always switch back to non synthetic.
Seems though like now now I have a number of confirmed "This will work OK in your ZF" gear oils to choose from.
Which brand I end up will probably be as big a surprise to you as it is to me, but, like I said, maybe I'll just try all of them and see which one I like best.
Thanks for all the tips and information.
quote:Originally posted by OSOFAST:
Hi Mike I haven't welcome you to the forum yet so welcome to our addiction.
I am a big fan of synthetic lubricants and a very big fan of Redline products. I love how they work and what they can do. It is amazing how well this oil works, from reducing gear mesh noises, to ease of shifting when this oil is used. Also from how "thick" the HeavyShok is you will not experience any leaks that others have reported from the ZF with other brands of synthetic oils.
I would recommend that you change the oil in the ZF yearly to.
Jeff
Re: Heavy Shockproof:
In the details, doesn't it say " not recommended for most synchro applications" ?
Our ZF's have synchs, no? Am I missing something here?
No, you're not missing anything. I confirmed that the shock-proof oils are not to be used.
Red Line makes a 75-80 MTL and an 80-90NS that are both supposed to be compatible, so those are my options for synthetics to run.
I already bought 4 quarts of the Castrol Hypoy gear oil reommneded by RBT, so I have that to possibly use.
I found Brad Penn 80-90 GL4 conventional oil that fits all the requirements. I know Brad Penn motor oils are some of THE best dino (non synthetic) oils available.
If I knew for sure that GL5 was OK to use, then I'd also be considering Swepco, because I know Swepco is another one of THE best non synthetic oils available, but their gear oil is GL5.
So it's down to Castrol Hypoy 80-90 GL5, Red line MTS or NS, or the Brad Penn 80-90 GL4.
My shifting is smooth as butter, but very stiff, as if the shaft or shifting mechanism or shaft is dry or not lubricated.
Early next week I'll have the car on a lift, and be able to get under and lube everything and change out all the fluids, which I'm sure will imrove the feel of the shifting.
Red Line makes a 75-80 MTL and an 80-90NS that are both supposed to be compatible, so those are my options for synthetics to run.
I already bought 4 quarts of the Castrol Hypoy gear oil reommneded by RBT, so I have that to possibly use.
I found Brad Penn 80-90 GL4 conventional oil that fits all the requirements. I know Brad Penn motor oils are some of THE best dino (non synthetic) oils available.
If I knew for sure that GL5 was OK to use, then I'd also be considering Swepco, because I know Swepco is another one of THE best non synthetic oils available, but their gear oil is GL5.
So it's down to Castrol Hypoy 80-90 GL5, Red line MTS or NS, or the Brad Penn 80-90 GL4.
My shifting is smooth as butter, but very stiff, as if the shaft or shifting mechanism or shaft is dry or not lubricated.
Early next week I'll have the car on a lift, and be able to get under and lube everything and change out all the fluids, which I'm sure will imrove the feel of the shifting.
Redline MT-90 is closer to RBT's recommendation than MTL. MT-90 is a 75W-90, GL-4, whereas MTL is a bit lighter; 75W-80, GL-4.
Mike, check to see if Roger took out the redundant shifter interlock behind the shift-stick in the cabin. Its under a snap-ring retained plug (under the small rectangular upholstered piece on the console) and consists of a 2" long steel plug with a detent-tip & a spring. The ZF has a second detent inside the box and often the external one gums up so the two do not work in unison. Remove it & put it on a shelf with a cork in the hole, then try it this way. Other external things that slow shifting are partially seized shift-rod u-joints and a stuck or misaligned shift-shaft johnny-joint below the left header.
Thanks,
I'll check that out.
Made the decision today, and bought 4 quarts of Red Line MT90. We'll see how it feels. Aint no thang, I can just keep swapping out oils and find the one I like if this stuff doesn't work out.
I'll check that out.
Made the decision today, and bought 4 quarts of Red Line MT90. We'll see how it feels. Aint no thang, I can just keep swapping out oils and find the one I like if this stuff doesn't work out.
quote:Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Mike, check to see if Roger took out the redundant shifter interlock behind the shift-stick in the cabin. Its under a snap-ring retained plug (under the small rectangular upholstered piece on the console) and consists of a 2" long steel plug with a detent-tip & a spring. The ZF has a second detent inside the box and often the external one gums up so the two do not work in unison. Remove it & put it on a shelf with a cork in the hole, then try it this way. Other external things that slow shifting are partially seized shift-rod u-joints and a stuck or misaligned shift-shaft johnny-joint below the left header.
Red Line MT90 feels REALLY good in my gearbox.
It already felt good, but I can say now it feels even better. Shifts smooth as butter.
I need to keep spraying lithium grease on that little shaft guide half-way back to the box though, when it dries out the shifting starts to feel draggy.
Finally, after putting another hour of driving on the car (total of 3-4 hours) I'm really starting to enjoy my new car!
It already felt good, but I can say now it feels even better. Shifts smooth as butter.
I need to keep spraying lithium grease on that little shaft guide half-way back to the box though, when it dries out the shifting starts to feel draggy.
Finally, after putting another hour of driving on the car (total of 3-4 hours) I'm really starting to enjoy my new car!
You need to change the shift rod trunion. This one has a special bushing that is self lubricating.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3...01776?lpid=82&chn=ps
You can't go wrong with the Redline. Tightens up the box. Makes it feel precise and "new".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3...01776?lpid=82&chn=ps
You can't go wrong with the Redline. Tightens up the box. Makes it feel precise and "new".
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here is a past discussion on alternative shift rod trunions (under $20)
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...562/m/6651095156/p/1
reminded me I need to order one
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...562/m/6651095156/p/1
reminded me I need to order one
That thread refers to "shooting the rod" with dry teflon lubricant "before every drive".
If that is necessary, than that is not the part you want.
The part I posted has a permanently dry lubricant embedded bushing installed into it.
That's really what you want there. If you don't like the glitz, spray it black. They come black too. Anodized. The part is machined out of aluminum billet.
If that is necessary, than that is not the part you want.
The part I posted has a permanently dry lubricant embedded bushing installed into it.
That's really what you want there. If you don't like the glitz, spray it black. They come black too. Anodized. The part is machined out of aluminum billet.
Hi Guys.
Im also stuck in this jungle of different ZF oils. =)
But for me it has come down to just two different
oils and those are:
Redline MT-90
Or
Redline 75W90-NS
Im leaning towards MT-90 because its a GL-4 oil and the Mike the Snake
that started the thread seems to be very pleased with that oil.
The ZF in my car has never been rebuilt but works perfect but i
feel a oil change is due because i bought the car 2 years ago and
i dont Think the previous owner has changed it for quite some years.
If you "Mike the Snake" also read this then i want to ask why you
Went with MT-90..?
Sorry for bad Spelling guys but im from Sweden. =)
Best Regards
Peter
Im also stuck in this jungle of different ZF oils. =)
But for me it has come down to just two different
oils and those are:
Redline MT-90
Or
Redline 75W90-NS
Im leaning towards MT-90 because its a GL-4 oil and the Mike the Snake
that started the thread seems to be very pleased with that oil.
The ZF in my car has never been rebuilt but works perfect but i
feel a oil change is due because i bought the car 2 years ago and
i dont Think the previous owner has changed it for quite some years.
If you "Mike the Snake" also read this then i want to ask why you
Went with MT-90..?
Sorry for bad Spelling guys but im from Sweden. =)
Best Regards
Peter
I went with the MT90 because I was told it was the same GL4 stuff as the 75-85 stuff but a little thicker, but same stuff.
Seems to be working great so farm by box is shifting smoothly.
Seems to be working great so farm by box is shifting smoothly.
Thanks for your answer Mike.
But you wrote "I was told it was the same GL4 stuff as the 75-85 stuff but a little thicker"
Do you refer 75-85 as the other Red Line oil 75W90-NS..?
Best Regards
Peter
But you wrote "I was told it was the same GL4 stuff as the 75-85 stuff but a little thicker"
Do you refer 75-85 as the other Red Line oil 75W90-NS..?
Best Regards
Peter
Yes I believe so.
I called Red Line and asked and they said both were the same, one was just a little thicker.
I called Red Line and asked and they said both were the same, one was just a little thicker.
Here is another option, a little expensive, but works extremely well for me, especially in cool weather. The data sheet has the applications and specifications for both their GL-4 and GL-5 offering. I run, and am suggesting, the GL-4 for the ZF. It is harder to find, but can be shipped from on-line vendors.
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NEO 75w90 Gear Oil --- Has anybody used or is anyone familiar with NEO 75w90 Gear Oil (synthetic)? With the recent purchase of a Pantera, the ZF, still in the crate after being rebuilt through one of the California vendors, was shipped with a gallon of the aforementioned gear oil to be put in the ZF. I am not familiar with it.
First post... New owner and gear oil change time...
Blue #6007 moved from SoCal to Seattle February, 2016. Hall Pantera did a full restoration in 2002 for my Dad and Tom Hodges built the "street mini brute" motor. Tom continued to service the car until it's trip north.
I spoke with Tom in February about the car, engine & gear oil preferences. He told me to use NEO synthetic 90 weight, iirc. JAG13CAT's post above is the first mention of NEO.
Anybody else using this?
*********************************************
Update: I called NEO oil and spoke with Paul. They do specialty oils and custom blends. Paul said when he was a teenager he use to deliver cases of NEO 75w90 to Gary Hall. It's all they ever used in the ZF.
They make an F1 oil and several BTC teams are using their new 10w60 racing oil along with a few WRC teams.
Just bought a gallon...
Lyall
Blue #6007 moved from SoCal to Seattle February, 2016. Hall Pantera did a full restoration in 2002 for my Dad and Tom Hodges built the "street mini brute" motor. Tom continued to service the car until it's trip north.
I spoke with Tom in February about the car, engine & gear oil preferences. He told me to use NEO synthetic 90 weight, iirc. JAG13CAT's post above is the first mention of NEO.
Anybody else using this?
*********************************************
Update: I called NEO oil and spoke with Paul. They do specialty oils and custom blends. Paul said when he was a teenager he use to deliver cases of NEO 75w90 to Gary Hall. It's all they ever used in the ZF.
They make an F1 oil and several BTC teams are using their new 10w60 racing oil along with a few WRC teams.
Just bought a gallon...
Lyall
How about Pennzoil Gearplus #4096, SAE 80W-90 GL5 . I change it every spring.
Castrol 80W-90. Change it once a year. Roy Butfoy said to use this 21 years ago. Never let me down.