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Hello,

Just bought our first pantera and need some help from you seasoned folks. Car is #2095, a pre L 1972. Car has 40 series 275 rear tires using a 16" wheel with a moderatly built 351C. The suspension is stock. My question is with all the different kits out there to fix the play on the stub axles and bearings which one is the most reliable/best. I need to perform this on our car and want to do it once if possible. Any information would be much help. Thanks-
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"Fixing" the stub-axle play requires an outer stub-axle that is properly sized for its ball bearings. All of the factory ones are undersized. If you think you ever will change to tapered-roller rear axle bearings, get a set of billet 4130-axles (most of the vendors sell them, for varying prices, and they work with both ball bearings and tapered-roller bearings). Some tapered-roller kit makers will not install their kit onto a welded axle, using the excuse that they would then be liable for someone else's welding work. Machining is required on the uprights for tapered roller bearings. And if you think you might be trying endurance track racing in the future, the billet axles are much stronger. Otherwise, a weld-repaired or plated stock axle, with stock ball bearings, will work just fine.
Thanks for the information. Some say the tapered bearings are better than the sealed style, others say that the sealer style bearings are the best. In any case, I plan to buy the billet axles. Which setup would should I go to. I do not mind spending the money as long as it is going to last. Anyone out there have a opinions on which set up is the most durable? Hall sells a complete kit for $1300.00 that is advertised as a kit that will fix this problem for good. Any further help is much thanks-
Welcome aboard!
If you have any hair you will probably pull most of it out working on your Italian stallion. Gary Hall of Hall Pantera has been my choice of vendors so far. He knows what he is talking about as do most of the vendors. However, even talking on the phone with Gary and ordering a part, doesn't mean you will bet the right part. In the last three months I have ordered parts only to get a completely wrong part. It is not Gary's fault. The people he has hired to pick and ship apparently have a hard time reading. Make certain the part(s) you receive are the part(s) you ordered.
If you use billet axles, either ball or tapered bearings will last a very long time. There are two problems with the tapered kits:first, some conversions do not use the proper bearing seals on both ends of the rear upright. I've talked to several guys who lost tapered bearings from driving in rain, and were not warranted by the kit maker who claimed that car washes cause the same kind of damage... The second problem is locking the axle nut at the very low torque used with tapered bearings. Some have come loose even with high-strength red lock-tite applied. Finally, for the theorists among us, roller bearings are rated for carrying higher loads than balls but absorb more power than balls. IMHO, stock ball bearings on billet axles are idiot-proof while you should ask LOTS of questions about any taperd-roller conversion kit. I'm currently running one of each for a long-term test on our '72 L (going on 4 yrs now), but I built my own conversion to address those weak known spots.
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