What's everyone torguing their wheels to? In stages or all at once?
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My new 16x8 and 17x11 Campy repro by Boyd call for 3 stages ending in 65 ft/lbs, significantly less than the 90 I generally use on the magnum 500s and Shelby 5-spokes (and all the family cars). BTW, great topic, I would urge everyone to check the torque on their wheels once a quarter, especially on the family cars where you may have someone else install/rotate tires. An impact gun is ...not... a precision tool, nor is the guy making $8 an hour installing tires. When I have any tire work done to the family cars I always bring them home, back them off, and retorque them, checking in a week. there are some really ugly pictures floating around of $100k classic cars where a newly installed tire came off and took most of a fender with it, best case.,,
I'm new to a torgue wrench...finally bought one from sears 
...so it sound like you must back the nuts off every time to check the torgue? Ya can't just walk up to the car and crank on them to 65lbs?
...so it sound like you must back the nuts off every time to check the torgue? Ya can't just walk up to the car and crank on them to 65lbs?
Emery,
The main thing to remember is that you do not torque them down in a circular, one after the other pattern, but more like a star pattern in stagesworking across from the nut you just finished torquing.
The main thing to remember is that you do not torque them down in a circular, one after the other pattern, but more like a star pattern in stagesworking across from the nut you just finished torquing.
I should probably call Kodiak and see what lbs they recommend. It sounds like it's custom specs to each wheel....maybe not...to the wheel studs maybe?
Get an automatic releasing torque wrench. Set it at the 65-70 and just check them. It clicks when you reach your setting.
Aluminum wheels are the worst for keeping the initial setting. They generally need a click in a couple of days or so and then will keep the setting.
The centers of the custom wheels are cut by CNC out of aluminum plate, sometimes called billit aluminum.
I think that the hardening of the aluminum is done after they are cut and is a surface hardening. It is going to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer on the execution.
The Campis are very high quality wheels by comparison. I believe that they have steel inserts in the wheel at the lug nut.
You should also use anti-seize compound on the threads of the studs. Check them to make sure they are strait. Use a thread chaser to clean and true the threads.
Never use a numatic wrench to torque them up. You can snap the stud, warp the rotor and theretically fracture the wheel itself.
The wider the rubber and wheel, the more stress is going to be on the studs.
I haven't heard a lot of Pantera studs snapping but by comparison, the Mustangs are terrible.
Aluminum wheels are the worst for keeping the initial setting. They generally need a click in a couple of days or so and then will keep the setting.
The centers of the custom wheels are cut by CNC out of aluminum plate, sometimes called billit aluminum.
I think that the hardening of the aluminum is done after they are cut and is a surface hardening. It is going to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer on the execution.
The Campis are very high quality wheels by comparison. I believe that they have steel inserts in the wheel at the lug nut.
You should also use anti-seize compound on the threads of the studs. Check them to make sure they are strait. Use a thread chaser to clean and true the threads.
Never use a numatic wrench to torque them up. You can snap the stud, warp the rotor and theretically fracture the wheel itself.
The wider the rubber and wheel, the more stress is going to be on the studs.
I haven't heard a lot of Pantera studs snapping but by comparison, the Mustangs are terrible.
quote:Originally posted by hawaii:
I'm new to a torgue wrench...finally bought one from sears
The reason I said that I back them off when someone else installs them (on the family cars) is that they are often overtightened. I'll back them off, then torque to the desired value. That way I'm assured that they are all the same, and correct. Good luck.
I used 75# setting on my wheels.
Another tip always set your wrench to lowest possible setting between uses during storage.
Another tip always set your wrench to lowest possible setting between uses during storage.
Another note most wheel companies offer. Re-torque after 50 miles. I have had cases where paint, burrs or metal compressed reduced the set torque after a few days. Most important for brand new rims fresh from the machine shop. Best to double check after some time just to be sure.
And yes, tire shops who bang on wheel using impact hammers will always over torque. Worst experience is being on the road changing a tire that some kid hammered on the lug nuts.
And yes, tire shops who bang on wheel using impact hammers will always over torque. Worst experience is being on the road changing a tire that some kid hammered on the lug nuts.
Talked to Daryle today at Kodiak and he said he had no requirement for the torgue just torgue it to the Manufacturers spec for the "studs"
Anybody know what that is? It all about the stud!
Anybody know what that is? It all about the stud!