Where to get power for additional fog lights?

IF IT WERE ME! Doing the wiring, I would run 14-16 ga. wires from the spare switch to a "Beefy" (contacts rated at 5-10 Amps)relay, located near the BATTERY (this position keeps the length of the 12 Gage LIVE wires SHORTER!), and then wire the contacts using 12 gage wire Minimum directly from the Battery Posts. For the switch itself, to power the relay (very low draw); I would come off of FUSE #9, it's for the 'Cigar Lighter', The ONLY device powered by that fuse, and since it's a direct 'Short' The fuse is a High Amperage Rated Fuse; I Beleive (correct me if I'am wrong) It is a 25 AMP. YOU should also wire a fuse in-line between the battery Positive Post and the 12 gage wire going to the relay, I would use a fuse, here, Rated at 'Double' the Amperage Draw of BOTH fog Lamps. Good Luck with it! Marlin. Choice #2: If you want to avoid the fuse block alltogether, a better way is to also wire the relays' coil Positive side to the Batterys' + and then bring just relays - Negative wire back to the switch, to ground under the dash. This is a much safer design!, as in the first way, if the + wire were to chaff to ground it would blow the fuse, or spark a fire. The second design, if the switches wire chaffs to ground, ALL that happens is; the fog lights come on!! Something to think about. While I'am on the subject of cleaver wiring; here's another TIP that comes from the Heliocopters I use to work on: Concerning Temperature Gauges:, Instead of having Multiple Gauges for Temps, I.E. Water, Oil (Both Before and after a cooler; so you can 'see' the coolers' efficientcy), Transaxle, even Ambient Temps. That's a lot of gauges! Instead, Just purchase ONE gauge, and a sender for EACH point you wish to monitor, then use a 'Rotary switch' to select what will show on the single gauge. You can use a knob on the switch that points to a label or you can wire in Indicater Lights to show what is being monitored. I did this on my Trans-Am Years ago; and could watch the temps on the Engine water, Transmission oil, Differential, And Engine Oil Both Before and After Remote Filters/Cooler. It worked very well. Ofcourse the 'Downside' is, you Can't monitor everything at one time! Think about it! Marlin.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 04-22-2004).]

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 04-22-2004).]

Marlin's separate wire thing is a good idea. Be aware that 100% of the current for both headlights, side-marker lights and the turn signals is grounded by a single 16-gauge wire that runs all the way back to the ground lug under the dash, so be sure to ground the new lights to a nice clean spot near the bulbs. This puny single ground wire for all the front lights was the subject of an extensive article from Fred Terry in the May POCA newsletter