That looks like a quality piece.
I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.
Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement. Takes a while for them to catch fire.
I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.
Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.
These pre-made cables are outstanding as well:
https://www.grote.com/electric...tart-cables/84-9506/
and the switch:
Sorry to hear that you're having a tough slog with you r wiring. From what I've observed of your work ethic though, I'm sure you'll quickly get the upper hand. I wouldn't be surprised if you figured out how to do a quick coat of paint on your garage as well!
@jwelch68 posted:That looks like a quality piece.
I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.
Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement. Takes a while for them to catch fire.
I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.
Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.
Yes!!! Don’t trust ANY parts!!! Verify and check and verify and check again!! AND many plastic and rubber parts do NOT age well!
@panterapatt posted:I had two "little green knob" things fail and went to this:
I was thinking doing it the same way, same place as you but when I found a warm/hot wire it was always inside… under the dash area and then I scrambled out of the car to get to the battery to disconnect it…
I think in real live the scenario is playing out about the same but with the add on of driving…
Stopping, popping the hood, getting out, opening the hood, prop rod, going around the front to the battery…. Disconnecting!
it seems to long before the battery is disconnected….
just my worry feeling…😬
that’s why I put the switch inside..
And as a bonus there was already a factory hole (about below on the horizontal sheet metal where your switch is located - next to the clip that holds the brake line down - oval 1”x2”)
There's a large 1/4 turn main switch sold to comply with the long time SCCA mandate for an outside-accessible cut-off switch for some race classes. This is for use by safety personnel, in case of an accident where the driver is knocked unconscious. VERY handy for cars in wrecks with electric fuel pumps! It takes a 1" hole in a fender to mount; some guys use an existing radio antenna fender mount hole.
My reason for hiding it near the battery was to be able to disconnect the battery for when I am working on it in a planned manner. Did not want a giant cutoff switch sticking out of the fender. If is melts down while driving, I guess Sxxx happens.
Right, agree with Pat - the main goals for my setup:
1) Eliminate any parasitic drain on the battery while the car is resting.
2) Allow me to work electrical issues with no risk of shorting out my battery and doing serious damage.
3) Make it “slightly” harder for some bone-head trying to steal it.
4) Emergency shutoff.
Rocky
Another beauty..
It's not just that crap that gets me. It's also the fact that the old connectors break but look OK until they come loose and then things don't work anymore. I've had that happen a couple of times and then I chase my tail trying to find out what the heck! it was just working! Good thing I'm on the road to retirement. 
Ken
Yes, very true. It’s a 50 year old car… sometimes it even think I’m in better shape than the car is… lol
Fixed a few more wires and the dimmer for the gauge light lights and to my utter surprise…. Everything is working… Well, everything original is working. I still have to hook my stuff up.
tonight I will celebrate!!!! All out!! No limits!!! I so happy!!!!
Congratulations!
I told you it would be a no-brainer!
Good work!
Now drive it!
What’s the ohm range on the dimmer rehostat? I was wondering about that!
I see (other thread):
- 0 to 35.4 Ohms!!!
First time Running again
Yea‼️
Oil pressure looks good, fuel is low, but you probably know that
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:Yea‼️
Oil pressure looks good, fuel is low, but you probably know that
Larry
Low gas is very easy to fix… Lol
not so much if it would have low oil pressure..
Lucky me
The can of worms bit me in the ass…
when we upgraded the cooling and heating system I did question the heater tubes that run inside the center tunnel..
I cleaned them up, treated them with rust converter, checked them for leaks and it was all good… originally I wanted to run new tubes under the tunnel next to the cool but I guess I got lazy and didn’t suck it up… and it bit me!!!
After we run the engine… ( the video I posted) we pushed the car back in the shop and after 5 minutes it started to open the gates… lucky me, I did the test run with distilled water …
..putting under the car stainless steel 5/8 tubes with AN fittings front and back….
pics tomorrow… I’m dead..😵
What leaked? The steel line?
@panterapatt posted:What leaked? The steel line?
Yes… the pipes going to the heater core
