While I’m there I should…. “The can of worms”

I hear you brother! My CNC slave cylinder, which saw one summer of use 22 years ago, sprung a leak the other day. It was a long throw version along with the matching master cylinder. Despite my best efforts, (probably clumsy) I never did get it to go into reverse and first without a little grind. I called Ron Mccall, who asked what kind of clutch it was. I said I had no idea….

I now have an appointment with Ron and have a new everything on order. I’ll have him safety wire it as well. The leak wasn’t THAT bad…

Along the lines of doing it once, correctly and forever, does anyone have any thoughts on a concentric - Tilton or otherwise - throw out bearing/?

My heart goes out to the gentleman who had his Goose stolen. Looking in the registry: 8MA822 shows up in Arizona around the year 2011. It's painted white or off-white.  In 2016, it was seen in Germany, wearing a lime green color.

Rather than rebuild the original and cracked door handle, get a set of IPSCO door handles.  They're beautiful, like jewelry.

https://ipsco.org/Pantera_file...20door%20handles.htm

But, if you're going to rebuild yours anyway, you might want to replace the worn, crazed or pitted chrome pulls with polished stainless pulls.  I may have a set available because I was planning to rebuild my door handles when I discovered both plastic cups were faded, one was cracked, and the other door handle had something else inside broken.

@scifi posted:

My heart goes out to the gentleman who had his Goose stolen. Looking in the registry: 8MA822 shows up in Arizona around the year 2011. It's painted white or off-white.  In 2016, it was seen in Germany, wearing a lime green color.

Thank you very much! 🙏

I will forward the information to the gentleman!!!

@garth66 posted:

Rather than rebuild the original and cracked door handle, get a set of IPSCO door handles.  They're beautiful, like jewelry.

https://ipsco.org/Pantera_file...20door%20handles.htm

But, if you're going to rebuild yours anyway, you might want to replace the worn, crazed or pitted chrome pulls with polished stainless pulls.  I may have a set available because I was planning to rebuild my door handles when I discovered both plastic cups were faded, one was cracked, and the other door handle had something else inside broken.

Very nice jewelry… but I keep my patina on purpose.. it’s 50 years old and it will be very good mechanically but no beauty queen… 👍.  To really see what my car is you need to dig in.. otherwise it’s just another yellow Pantera..

I saw the handles at the PIM show and I definitely noticed them.. clean straight cut..  very nice!!! I even ask the owner of the car about them…

@Ed Harbur posted:

I hear you brother! My CNC slave cylinder, which saw one summer of use 22 years ago, sprung a leak the other day.

It seems to me that more usage would have been a cure too… being just an unused object is a killer… on the other hand even with use … after 22 years…😕

I just replaced my clutch master and slave a few weeks ago. I bought an Alpha Romero 19mm bore master and although my slave wasn’t that old I replaced it with a stock style from Wilkinson. Clutch is working great now.

Ed, I've been running a concentric throwout system for the last 25 yrs. I adapted a Tilton racing unit to the ZF because no one sold such a thing back then. Two common fail-spots: when the mfg says 'establish 0.060" of clutch to throwout free play,' BELIEVE IT! The whole rig uses a single square quad-ring to seal. It seals on the OD of the cylinder bore AND simultaneously on the internal piston ID, and works only in-and-out.

What happens is, guys skimp or error on setting the required free play. When the engine & bellhousing are hot from 15+ minutes of driving, the free play closes up considerably. If it disappears altogether, the concentric piston bottoms and begins spinning with the input shaft. The quad ring will fail in 50 miles if it starts spinning. They are reportedly difficult to replace (I've not had to).

D Quella used to sell such a rig (not a Tilton) and reportedly had massive warranty problems, mostly because of inadequate free play during home installation, I think. Dunno where his system was sourced from.

The second problem is obvious: if ANYTHING goes wrong, the ZF must come out to fix it.

Advantages:

1)- the rig is 12 lbs lighter than stock- you don't need the stock slave or its bracket, nor the cross shaft in the bell housing, its bearings/ bushings, or the cast iron release fork. It all goes on a shelf.

2)- With a std bore clutch master, the concentric throwout will stroke in/out around 0.090"! So one has more than enough in hand for large amounts of free play, and it's self adjusting once set up properly. This is good for saving the usual ZF synchro wear due to stock clutch drag. Its also easier to push in & out: Judy (5'2" & 118 lbs) had no problem street driving it 500 miles to 'Vegas.

My rig adjusts by threading in & out on a special ZF nose piece w/ a stock nose seal. The bleed hose extends out one of the ZF cross-shaft holes while the pressure hose goes in the other. Quella's adjusts by a stack of shims on (I think) a stock ZF nose piece. Both systems work fine. Good luck-

I did a brief mental recap of the last 22 years, and it turns out I was VERY busy! So are most of us, I expect. The car was in storage, so out of sight, out of mind didn’t  help a bit either. Now it’s home and I can’t go to work without walking past it, and somehow it’’s come to the front of the list1

Lousbby- Great to hear you succeeded. I just had a back “repair” that prevents lifting, twisting or bending  for 6-8 weeks,,and I really want to drive the car at that time, so off to McCall it goes,  and I figure I’d just let him use whatever he wants, He suggested a complete clutch kit from Quella, and as I remember, master and slaves from Wilkinson. Will check my notes.

.

Boss- I just found your post on the concentric throw out bearing from ‘23 yesterday, and you’ve successfully convinced me that I’m not a good candidate! Thanks for your help on this and everything else. -Ed

Doing the interior there is a lot of wiring to attend to….. and rust and dirt

Here something unexpected:

I was going to replace the speedo cable on my car and I undid the zip ties of the new cable… unrolled it and laid it on the floor to relax….
as any Young at heart person would do I wanted to Twiddle the cable between my fingers… and to my absolute astonishment it didn’t want to turn…. WTF… 😳 Now i tried it from the other side - same result!!!

it took a  vice-like grip of my fingers to slightly turn the inside cable while holding the outside!! That can’t be right!!!  I pulled the cable out of the shielding and I found that to was packed…. I mean really really packed with graphite grease!!  I’ve wiped the cable off and stuck it back in… slightly better… Pulled it out again wiped more grease off and repeated the procedure five more times…. Now it’s  like a normal easy turning but still well lubricated speedo cable! I did not know that such a thing is possible (or how they got the grease like that in there) but here I am with blobs of grease coming out of this 6 foot cable that would have caused trouble for sure….

there is a thing as to much lube…. 🫣