That looks like a quality piece.
I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.
Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement. Takes a while for them to catch fire.
I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.
Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.
These pre-made cables are outstanding as well:
https://www.grote.com/electric...tart-cables/84-9506/
and the switch:
Sorry to hear that you're having a tough slog with you r wiring. From what I've observed of your work ethic though, I'm sure you'll quickly get the upper hand. I wouldn't be surprised if you figured out how to do a quick coat of paint on your garage as well!
@jwelch68 posted:That looks like a quality piece.
I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.
Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement. Takes a while for them to catch fire.
I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.
Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.
Yes!!! Don’t trust ANY parts!!! Verify and check and verify and check again!! AND many plastic and rubber parts do NOT age well!
@panterapatt posted:I had two "little green knob" things fail and went to this:
I was thinking doing it the same way, same place as you but when I found a warm/hot wire it was always inside… under the dash area and then I scrambled out of the car to get to the battery to disconnect it…
I think in real live the scenario is playing out about the same but with the add on of driving…
Stopping, popping the hood, getting out, opening the hood, prop rod, going around the front to the battery…. Disconnecting!
it seems to long before the battery is disconnected….
just my worry feeling…😬
that’s why I put the switch inside..
And as a bonus there was already a factory hole (about below on the horizontal sheet metal where your switch is located - next to the clip that holds the brake line down - oval 1”x2”)
There's a large 1/4 turn main switch sold to comply with the long time SCCA mandate for an outside-accessible cut-off switch for some race classes. This is for use by safety personnel, in case of an accident where the driver is knocked unconscious. VERY handy for cars in wrecks with electric fuel pumps! It takes a 1" hole in a fender to mount; some guys use an existing radio antenna fender mount hole.
My reason for hiding it near the battery was to be able to disconnect the battery for when I am working on it in a planned manner. Did not want a giant cutoff switch sticking out of the fender. If is melts down while driving, I guess Sxxx happens.
Right, agree with Pat - the main goals for my setup:
1) Eliminate any parasitic drain on the battery while the car is resting.
2) Allow me to work electrical issues with no risk of shorting out my battery and doing serious damage.
3) Make it “slightly” harder for some bone-head trying to steal it.
4) Emergency shutoff.
Rocky
Another beauty..
It's not just that crap that gets me. It's also the fact that the old connectors break but look OK until they come loose and then things don't work anymore. I've had that happen a couple of times and then I chase my tail trying to find out what the heck! it was just working! Good thing I'm on the road to retirement. 
Ken
Yes, very true. It’s a 50 year old car… sometimes it even think I’m in better shape than the car is… lol
Fixed a few more wires and the dimmer for the gauge light lights and to my utter surprise…. Everything is working… Well, everything original is working. I still have to hook my stuff up.
tonight I will celebrate!!!! All out!! No limits!!! I so happy!!!!
Congratulations!
I told you it would be a no-brainer!
Good work!
Now drive it!
What’s the ohm range on the dimmer rehostat? I was wondering about that!
I see (other thread):
- 0 to 35.4 Ohms!!!
First time Running again
Yea‼️
Oil pressure looks good, fuel is low, but you probably know that
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:Yea‼️
Oil pressure looks good, fuel is low, but you probably know that
Larry
Low gas is very easy to fix… Lol
not so much if it would have low oil pressure..
Lucky me
The can of worms bit me in the ass…
when we upgraded the cooling and heating system I did question the heater tubes that run inside the center tunnel..
I cleaned them up, treated them with rust converter, checked them for leaks and it was all good… originally I wanted to run new tubes under the tunnel next to the cool but I guess I got lazy and didn’t suck it up… and it bit me!!!
After we run the engine… ( the video I posted) we pushed the car back in the shop and after 5 minutes it started to open the gates… lucky me, I did the test run with distilled water …
..putting under the car stainless steel 5/8 tubes with AN fittings front and back….
pics tomorrow… I’m dead..😵
What leaked? The steel line?
@panterapatt posted:What leaked? The steel line?
Yes… the pipes going to the heater core
Your problem bit me as well. I was figuring I could get by with the hoses I replaced 22 years ago since they had 0 miles and 0 sun exposure. In the end, though, your experience points out that it really is dumb not to do all the hoses and tubes preemptively before the car ever hits the road.
So true!!!
here is my solution
2 stainless steel tubes, 5/8, one tube 61”, other 63” to stagger fittings, one tube has 90 degree bend the other two 45 degree bends for additional adjustment.. two straight AN fittings in the back, two 90 degree fittings in the front. I was able to use the original hoses (just a few weeks old) in the back, new hoses in the front.. (90 degree turn from the Heater Core, straight hose off the shut off valve) The new hoses inside go towards the passenger footwell, Follow the air conditioner hoses and then go through the “firewall”
one dogleg (1/2”) in both tubes to clear the handbrake perfectly!
1 day thinking
2 days work
tomorrow Bleeding the cooling system and check again…✌️
looks like the inside of the belly of the Exxon Valdez… 🤣
Don’t run aground against the rocks!!!
@rocky posted:Don’t run aground against the rocks!!!
I’m going to modify the bottom of the car…
there will be a thread…
Filled the cooling system with water And antifreeze today… Opened the heater valve on the dashboard as well as the electric shut-off valves… car jacked up in the air - ass high And going through the motions of opening valves, squeezing and filling up again, but it was unable to fire up the engine because the exit was blocked off the shop so I moved on to the Powersteering…
Tomorrow is my little girl’s birthday, so I’m gonna stay home To witness my little girl, blowing out candles on her cake, which have now double digits in her age 🥲
they grow up so fast…
more on Monday 👍
Happy birthday to your little girl!
Great stuff, and Happy birthday from me as well. You're making it too easy with a parts list! What wall thickness tubing did you use? Was it just regular 304? Does it bend with a "discount store" tubing bender?
Yes, looks the same- that should work… you do need to flare the ends AFTER you put the barrel and the throw over nuts on for the AN fittings on it.. lol
@LeMans850i posted:… car jacked up in the air - ass high
You don't need to do that. Use a vacuum filling device instead. There won't be any air bubbles in the system. It's also a good device to use, to check for leaks. Before you put coolant in the system, pull a vacuum and leave it for a few hours or even overnight. If the vacuum drops, you have a leak.
I use an OEMTools 27066 Coolant System Refiller Kit. Less than $100 on Amazon and it works great.
I also endorse the vacuum cooling system tool. I converted last year and will never go back to the old-fashioned gymnastics necessary to remove air.
on a similar note, I am a veteran convert to a pressure bleeder tool, I find the one by Motive to be just fine. It takes longer to lay out the towels and prepare the pressure bleeder then it does to bleed a clutch line. Doing the brakes is equally quickly accomplished.
Larry
Vacuum tool highly recommended. I was able to find a few hose clamps that would have leaked before I put 5 gallons of coolant in the system.
Makes the coolant fill process very easy.
I got mine at harbor freight for around $80.
John
Here's a tip: when you purchase one of these devices, it's easier to see the gauge if it's oriented vertically instead of horizontally.
Another picture 
Still “playing “ with my electrical things… one problem that popped up is the blue high beam indicator light is on the moment the lights are on … no matter if high or low beam is selected….
what should be the color on the back of the tachometer light bulb for the high beam light and where does it get power from….
it was already late today when I found the problem…. So I have not checked yet 😵💫
@forestg posted:see attached.
Thank you very much, sir! Tomorrow morning, I will hunt the green black wire down….👍
It comes off of fuse 1 if that helps.
I had a similar experience and it turned out to be missing ground connection on the back of the tachometer housing.
John
#3590
@jwelch68 posted:I had a similar experience and it turned out to be missing ground connection on the back of the tachometer housing.
John
#3590
I’ve go up there tomorrow with the borescope… The back lighting is working when I turn the lights on, so there should be ground on the housing…
