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That looks like a quality piece. 

I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.

Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement.  Takes a while for them to catch fire.

I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.

Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.

@jwelch68 posted:

That looks like a quality piece.

I design high power amplifiers for consumer electronics and see many dangerous parts come from China.

Usually, they are marine or UTV type circuit breakers that have high contact resistance or poor terminal engagement.  Takes a while for them to catch fire.

I've seen some very expensive boats and UTVs go up in flames as a result.

Definitely can't hurt to check high current connections every once in a while.

Yes!!! Don’t trust ANY parts!!! Verify and check and verify and check again!! AND many plastic and rubber parts do NOT age well!

@panterapatt posted:

I had two "little green knob" things fail and went to this:  

I was thinking doing it the same way, same place as you but when I found a warm/hot wire it was always inside… under the dash area and then I scrambled out of the car to get to the battery to disconnect it…

I think in real live the scenario is playing out about the same but with the add on of driving…

Stopping, popping the hood, getting out, opening the hood, prop rod, going around the front to the battery…. Disconnecting!

it seems to long before the battery is disconnected….

just my worry feeling…😬

that’s why I put the switch inside..

And as a bonus there was already a factory hole (about below on the horizontal sheet metal where your switch is located - next to the clip that holds the brake line down - oval 1”x2”)

Last edited by LeMans850i

There's a large 1/4 turn main switch sold to comply with the long time SCCA mandate for an outside-accessible cut-off switch for some race classes. This is for use by safety personnel, in case of an accident where the driver is knocked unconscious. VERY handy for cars in wrecks with electric fuel pumps! It takes a 1" hole in a fender to mount; some guys use an existing radio antenna fender mount hole.

Right, agree with Pat - the main goals for my setup:

1) Eliminate any parasitic drain on the battery while the car is resting.

2) Allow me to work electrical issues with no risk of shorting out my battery and doing serious damage.

3) Make it “slightly” harder for some bone-head trying to steal it.

4) Emergency shutoff.

Rocky

Last edited by rocky

It's not just that crap that gets me. It's also the fact that the old connectors break but look OK until they come loose and then things don't work anymore. I've had that happen a couple of times and then I chase my tail trying to find out what the heck! it was just working! Good thing I'm on the road to retirement.

Ken

The can of worms bit me in the ass…

when we upgraded the cooling and heating system I did question the heater tubes that run inside the center tunnel..

I cleaned them up, treated them with rust converter, checked them for leaks and it was all good… originally I wanted to run new tubes under the tunnel next to the cool but I guess I got lazy and didn’t suck it up… and it bit me!!!

After we run the engine… ( the video I posted) we pushed the car back in the shop and after 5 minutes it started to open the gates…  lucky me, I did the test run with distilled water …

..putting under the car stainless steel 5/8 tubes with AN fittings front and back….

pics tomorrow… I’m dead..😵

Last edited by LeMans850i

So true!!!

here is my solution

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2 stainless steel tubes, 5/8,  one tube 61”, other 63” to stagger fittings, one tube has 90 degree bend the other two 45 degree bends for additional adjustment.. two straight AN fittings in the back, two 90 degree fittings in the front. I was able to use the original hoses (just a few weeks old) in the back, new hoses  in the front.. (90 degree turn from the Heater Core, straight hose off the shut off valve) The new hoses inside go towards the passenger footwell, Follow the air conditioner hoses and then go through the “firewall”

one dogleg (1/2”) in both tubes to clear the handbrake perfectly!

1 day thinking

2 days work

tomorrow Bleeding the cooling system and check again…✌️



looks like the inside of the belly of the Exxon Valdez… 🤣

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Last edited by LeMans850i

Filled the cooling system with water And antifreeze today… Opened the heater valve on the dashboard as well as the electric shut-off valves… car jacked up in the air - ass high And going through the motions of opening valves, squeezing and filling up again, but it was unable to fire up the engine because the exit was blocked off the shop so I moved on to the Powersteering…

Tomorrow is my little girl’s birthday, so I’m gonna stay home To witness my little girl, blowing out candles on her cake, which have now double digits in her age 🥲

they grow up so fast…

more on Monday 👍

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