I believe the brake warning light illuminates for pad wear, not when parking brake engaged.
There are two warning lights. In the above photo with the beige dash, the red lamp that is not illuminated (above the one that is illuminated) works as you described.
The one that is lit up is for the parking brake and for the shuttle valve (brake pressure low) in the front trunk.
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I did a low speed test of the electronic parking brake in my 2022 Subaru. At about 15 MPH, I put the car in neutral and tried to engage the brake and it did nothing. I read somewhere if you keep holding it then it will engage. When I did so the parking brake did engage and the anti-lock system came to life immediately. It was not a pleasant braking experience and I immediately released the brake. Panteras do not have anti-lock brakes and that means the rear brakes will simply lock up if the Wilwood parking brake is engaged while driving.
@stevebuchanan posted:I did a low speed test of the electronic parking brake in my 2022 Subaru. At about 15 MPH, I put the car in neutral and tried to engage the brake and it did nothing. I read somewhere if you keep holding it then it will engage. When I did so the parking brake did engage and the anti-lock system came to life immediately. It was not a pleasant braking experience and I immediately released the brake. Panteras do not have anti-lock brakes and that means the rear brakes will simply lock up if the Wilwood parking brake is engaged while driving.
Yup… as far as I know all cars with the electric parking brake will use ALL brakes and the ABS when applied during driving!
NOT just the rear! There is a variation between carmakers how brutal the brakes will get applied (some even turn on the hazards) but in principle they all do the same! And it makes sense… just applying the rear brakes harsh by using a button and not being able to control the braking force manually will make the car swap ends rather quickly!
especially with the engine in the back!
I went with the Wilwood manual parking brake… because…. Shit happens!
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The Wilwood switch is installed in the cigar lighter hole. I omitted the bezel for the switch making it more innocuous.
I also replaced the the large aluminum shift knob with a stock knob. I had to replace the shift rod as well because it had been modified for the nitrous setup. They somehow drilled the entire length of the rod with a small diameter bit and threaded three wires through the rod for the nitrous switch that was in the shift knob. You simply flipped up the cap on the knob and then pressed the button. Pretty much like the movies, perhaps better. They were from the school called "You never know when you'll need an extra 100hp"
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So I was just thinking about how to disable the epb when the ignition is in the 'run' position, which assumes the engine is running and the wheels could be turning. 0-off/lock, 1-acc, 2-run, 3-start. If the epb could only be used when the key is in position 1-acc, then that would exclude any time the wheels *could* be turning under the engine's power.
The epb is normally powered by the accessory circuit. Run that circuit through a normally closed relay. The relay gets pulled open when the key is turned to 2-run and the state of the parking brake cannot be changed at that point.
It means if you fail to release the epb at the first key position, and start the engine, you would have to shut the engine off to unlock the brakes. Also makes a hill start more difficult as you wouldn't have power brakes available when unlocking the epb to pull out of a spot. Pros and cons
A speed sensor on one hub would be ideal, but not an easy thing to impliment on a pre abs car.
When the key is in the RUN position, the ACC function is also activated.
John
@jjones posted:So I was just thinking about how to disable the epb when the ignition is in the 'run' position, which assumes the engine is running and the wheels could be turning. 0-off/lock, 1-acc, 2-run, 3-start. If the epb could only be used when the key is in position 1-acc, then that would exclude any time the wheels *could* be turning under the engine's power.
The epb is normally powered by the accessory circuit. Run that circuit through a normally closed relay. The relay gets pulled open when the key is turned to 2-run and the state of the parking brake cannot be changed at that point.
It means if you fail to release the epb at the first key position, and start the engine, you would have to shut the engine off to unlock the brakes. Also makes a hill start more difficult as you wouldn't have power brakes available when unlocking the epb to pull out of a spot. Pros and cons
A speed sensor on one hub would be ideal, but not an easy thing to impliment on a pre abs car.
How about your foot has to be on the break to enable and disable the parking break…
This should be an easy Thing to build…
On my car when I bought it, there was a brake light switch mounted on the pedal stop… Because the original brake switch in the brass t- fitting in the front was broken..
you could install the switch in the brake pedal limiter (upwards ) that would provide power to the parking brake unit once you press the break… In any configuration ignition on and no ignition on.. key or no key! Just like a real good old parking break…
that would be my solution!
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That's a good idea too. I'll probably just move the switch out of the passenger's reach, which doesn't add any more wiring to an already complicated circuit. I think there are 7 wires going to the rotary switch.