windshield

Karl,
Do you mean the molding around your windshield is leaking? I just had my 72 stripped to bare metal and completely repainted at a very professional (exotics only) shop. The car was basically taken apart. However, both the owner and his glass man refused to try and remove the windshield. They thought we had a 50/50 chance of breakage and neither one knew where to get another windshield. I think there are glasses available, but supposedly they also feared breaking the new one. I have heard the new ones are around $750.00, but I don't really know.
Good Luck
Lar

I had all of my glass removed by a professional shop without incident. The glass is held in by the metal mouldings and the weatherstrip. Preferably, they should have 3 or 4 guys to do the job one or 2 to push from inside and 2 to catch from outside. I had the shop cut the old weatherstrip and it made it easier. The one mistake I made was to tell them to cut the weatherstrip/retainers in the 1/4 glass because I was going to replace them with new as I did with the windshield and back window. Although several vendors listed the weatherstrips when I called to order them, none of them had any in stock. My windshield guy even was able to work around this. In summary a good window shop (ask around) should be able to do the job without any problem. The scariest part of the job was moving and storing the glass for 6 months while the car was in the shop. He didn't want to keep it that long.

Good luck
Gary

The Pantera windshield WILL normally leak, since the factory glass size is too small to properly stretch the gasket for a tight seal to glass & body metal. Without the gasket, the glass will fall thru the body opening. So removing the gasket intact is not much of a problem for anyone experienced with pre-1960 US cars. If the gasket isn't too weathered, it can be re-used with a new glass. New gaskets are currently around $225. Most of the vendors carry gaskets & glass in stock, both clear & tinted, with & without built-in radio antennas. Since water normally collects under the gasket edge & there is no drain, a good move is to totally fill the area under the gasket lip with clear silicone rubber; all the way across the bottom, up both sides & about a foot across the top on each side. Figure on welding up the corroded areas once the windshield is out; a TIG is expensive but will minimize the heat so you need not remove the dashboard during welding. Removing the mouldings intact is trickier than pulling the windshield since the mouldings are flimsy & usually stuck to the rubber. An s-shaped protrusion goes part-way into the rubber; soapy water may help during the removal. Straightening them, then replacing is even worse; I left mine out rather than powder-coating them the same color as the gasket.