Windshield trim

You do see that the inner/bottom edge of the trim is not just a straight edge, right? perhaps the term JHook is throwing you off, but whatever you want to call it, it needs to index into its appropriate groove located deep within the gasket

Larry

I believe that the lip (J-hook) is a feature that helps lock the windshield into the channel.

As you probably know, the trim is inserted into gasket and installed with the windshield all at the same time.

Rocky

I was hoping I was missing something. So ,the glass needs to come out? is it glued in? Sounds like something I don't want to do. I shouldn't be such a Pu**y, could be getting shot at by a foreign country.  

I have read about under size windshields (and certain replacement brands are know to be too small) having issues at high speed as the cabin has a tendency to pressure up and that combined with negative pressure over the windshield causes the windshield to pop. Do you have an aftermarket windshield installed?

How can one tell if the glass is OEM, where are the stamps supposed to be and what should they read?

I’m about to replace my windshield. Does anyone have an brand, part number and a vendor that sells an original size windshield that will accept the metal trim. I have window gaskets from Cicognani s.r.l. -

Do not lift,

instead of tacking your request to this thread which has been beaten to death already, you would get better viewership if you posted in the parts wanted section

Larry

@Donny Dotson posted:

I was hoping I was missing something. So ,the glass needs to come out? is it glued in?

Yes. No.

Have you even tried what I suggested in one of your earlier threads on this?

many shops when faced with a problem like yours will just automatically break out a box knife and destroy the gasket to ensure no damage to the glass. That is a very expensive gasket to replace. Pushing out the windshield with the gasket is possible but have you ever done that before? I believe the current situation makes it easier to find replacement glass than a correct replacement gasket  

good luck

Larry

@lf-tp2511 posted:

Have you even tried what I suggested in one of your earlier threads on this?

many shops when faced with a problem like yours will just automatically break out a box knife and destroy the gasket to ensure no damage to the glass. That is a very expensive gasket to replace. Pushing out the windshield with the gasket is possible but have you ever done that before? I believe the current situation makes it easier to find replacement glass than a correct replacement gasket  

good luck

Larry

Correct replacement gaskets are easy to find ( Cicognani) , there are 2 different types  gaskets ,the early 2 piece trim and the later 4 piece trim .

the early 2 piece trim use a connector witch slideover the 2  upper and lower ends

Donny you are missing the slide over connectors, witch are used on many classic Italian design cars .

windows /gaskets are not gleu in , but have seen several cars with the original windshield witch are glue inn complete whit gasket , to protect leaking.

have seen this on 3 Pantera's witch are delivered by CA dealers.

Be aware , there are new /used windshields with DeTomaso logo witch dont fitt the original gaskets ( aftermarket Wilkinson windshield I believe) those windshields  are to thick .

Simon

@lf-tp2511 posted:

Do not lift,

instead of tacking your request to this thread which has been beaten to death already, you would get better viewership if you posted in the parts wanted section

Larry

What’s wrong with asking a question on a forum about a specific part that the thread is already discussing? Why you have to be such a curmudgeon? If you don’t like a question, just ignore it. Geez.. I belong to a bunch of different forums for the cars I own, but this Pantera forum seems to bring out the angry old guys that need to swing their shwing.

Wellll, EXCUSE ME, do not lift, for trying to bring more viewership to your request to BUY windshield GLASS, which for some reason you think is a good topic to post in a general discussion about windshield TRIM.

You don’t have to worry about me providing any more answers or content for any of your future posts. You are now blocked.  

Larry

Guy's ,  hold your horses , there is already enough war into the world.

If you look closely, the connector piece is on the windshield trim.

John

@jb1490 posted:

If you look closely, the connector piece is on the windshield trim.

John

John,

you are right ,

Simon

I just got back from Wilkinson today. Steve told me that I probably have a 72 gasket that the previous owner installed. The L or J part of the trim is supposed to hook the gasket but, the 72 gasket's groove is to deep. A 71 gasket is 700.00 doll hairs. I'm going to try something different and cheaper. If I was going to repaint I would chunk the gasket and trim in the trash and buy one of the slightly bigger windshields he has and run no trim, looks so much cleaner. There was a car in his shop that he just put in.

The Pantera windshield slides inside a stretched gasket that then slides onto sheet-steel protrusions all around the windshield opening in the body. If either the glass or gasket is fractionally off-size, it will not seal 'somewhere' against high speed impacts of rainwater, and you'll get a wet floor (or passengers). And even if it does prevent water from getting inside the car, there is a small space between the gasket & the body (the 'windshield channel' or cavity) where condensation or rain can be driven under the gasket lip.

This cavity has no drains, so it will retain any moisture in there until it does what water always does: it penetrates any paint/primer and rusts. When the glass is removed, unexpected body damage is often exposed. I've seen Panteras where this cavity is so corroded, some wire connectors and electrical relays under the dash were full of rusty water and obviously did not work. Rusty floors are also a clue! Once the glass is out, the fix is to get in the windshield channel with a rotary wire brush on a drill  and clean out ALL traces of rust. Then paint with several coats of a good epoxy primer & let cure overnight or longer.

You can also do one or both of the following after rust removal but before priming:  carefully drill a 3/8" hole sideways and downward from both extreme lower corners of the windshield cavity into the cowl, on the other side of the front firewall. The windshield cavity will now drain any collected moisture into the cowl, which DOES have a drain pipe on each side. And/or you can apply a bead of transparent RTV all the way around the gasket's flap where it meets the body. Fill the cavity all the way around by lifting the outer gasket flap.

NOTE- you need Special Windshield RTV which is NOT what's stocked at your corner hardware store! Regular RTV cures by exuding Acetic Anhydride, which instantly reacts with atmospheric moisture to form acetic acid (vinegar). And this acid corrodes steel faster than the water you were trying to eliminate! If you smell vinegar around your RTV, do NOT use it on a windshield. It's not harmful to most humans but it corrodes nearly all metals.

Special windshield RTV cures by exuding acet-aldehyde which is an odorless gas that rapidly dissipates and causes no corrosion. It is available at professional paint stores everywhere but again- NOT in hardware stores. It is somewhat more expensive than common RTV and will be labelled FOR WINDSHIELD GLASS. Follow its directions exactly.

I have had this cars interior completely gutted and there is not any signs of leaking or rust. The owner before me said it had never experienced rain or a garden hose. I too never wash any of my classics and living in a place where it never rains helps.  I Mc Givered some modified trim clips from a 70s Chrysler and they are working very well, in fact, I'm worried they may be hard to remove now, the trim is in there tighter than a mouses ear!