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I had not changed my ZF gear lube in 14 years (3000 miles). Shame on me. It always shifted smoothly with no oil leaks. The only issue I ever had was some posi chatter when I was having some overheating problems (since taken care of). I read all of the posts on gear lube choices and decided on Valvoline dino oil hoping to stay leak free. I mixed 1 liter of Valvoline H. P. 85/140 and 2 1/2 liters of Valvoline H. P. 80/90 for a calculated 81/104. The label said it was GL-4/5. Its the slightest bit notchy (as good as it was) when ambient (85 degrees)and smoother than it was prior to the change after it warms up. Easy two finger shifts. After several 1/2 hour runs no gearbox or differential issues. Hope this helps anyone else agonizing over this.
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Brad Penn makes a gear oil that sounds like it's perfect for our transaxles. It's called "Multi-Purpose 'Classic' GL-4 SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil". Here's the description: The SAE 80W-90 is specially blended using high quality PENN-GRADE® mineral base stocks and select additive technologies. It is designed to be used with “yellow” metallurgy (brass, bronze, copper) and other ‘soft’ metals used in synchronizers, bushings, thrust washers and other components typically found in classic manual transmissions and transaxles. In applications specifying API GL-4 quality lubricants, use of API GL-5 lubricants with higher extreme pressure additive activity/concentration can damage these ‘soft’ metal components.

That being said, POCA President Les Gray says he's tried them all and Redline 75W90 NS (synthetic) is the best he's ever used in a ZF.
quote:
Originally posted by David_Nunn:
Brad Penn makes a gear oil that sounds like it's perfect for our transaxles. It's called "Multi-Purpose 'Classic' GL-4 SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil". Here's the description: The SAE 80W-90 is specially blended using high quality PENN-GRADE® mineral base stocks and select additive technologies. It is designed to be used with “yellow” metallurgy (brass, bronze, copper) and other ‘soft’ metals used in synchronizers, bushings, thrust washers and other components typically found in classic manual transmissions and transaxles. In applications specifying API GL-4 quality lubricants, use of API GL-5 lubricants with higher extreme pressure additive activity/concentration can damage these ‘soft’ metal components.

That being said, POCA President Les Gray says he's tried them all and Redline 75W90 NS (synthetic) is the best he's ever used in a ZF.


I agree with the synthetic. I would add that the Mobil1 is excellent as well.

The ZF isn't particularly susceptible to developing leaks through the gaskets associated with using full synthetics at all.

The flat gaskets are cork which really is the issue right there. Cork shrinks.

The rear cover has the tendency to want to drip through the stud holes. Sometimes the only way to fix that is to put o-rings on the studs under the nuts.

Other then that it is really problem free.

I would add that the Redline for some strange reason seems to tighten up the feel of the gearbox itself.

It does that in every manual transmission I have tried it in and it does it to every box.

It makes it feel like a new transmission. Tight and precise.

Alchemy I tell you! Cool
Synthetics are always iffy in our 50-year-old ZF design. Some synthetics swell certain synthetic rubbers while others shrink them. The shrinking causes leaks while swelling only softens the sealing parts, but the assembly carries no internal pressure so it seems benign. If you found a synthetic by experiment that doesn't leak, good.
Temperatures inside a ZF under HARD driving do not seem to exceed 180F by my measurements (plus a few racers)- hardly enough to chase out condensation. So 'high-temp' lubes or diff- coolers are not needed this side of the Daytona 24 or LeMans 24.
LSD additives are needed only if your ZF chatters in turns- as the thread-starter here had. Chatter shock-loads all the gears engaged and is best avoided for longevity.
Blending different lubes for any reason is an un-good idea. See this month's POCA Newsletter on the effect of additives in motor oils to 'adjust' ZDDP levels, and what it does to the load-carrying properties of otherwise good oils.
As for metal compatibility with diff lubes, there are no brass/bronze parts in ZFs that I've found; everything is high-alloy steel: the synchos are all-steel as are the few thrust washers and the cases are aluminum.
When I purchased my Pantera, (4384) 2 1/2 years ago it had a fairly average shift.
It also has a slight oil weep from the right side output shaft.
Drained the oil & filled with Redline "lightweight" shock proof gear oil.
Much nicer shift its now very smooth to drive.
And the oil leak has almost disapeared.
So maybe it swelled the seals some?
Only get a tiny drip on real hot days when the engine & transmission are working much harder to stay cool.

regards,
Tony.
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