Throttle Cable Problem

Check for a bind, sharp bend. I never had a problem with a replacement. Is the cable jacket blue?

The cable will bind if there is a bend or a kink in the tube that is under the spring near the carb.

You need to be carefull not to bend it when you are threading it through the holder that bolts to the intake manifold and when you are hooking it up to the carb itself.

It is easy to bend but impossible to straiten out again.

On the Weber set up I disassemble the cable on the carb end, remove the spring temporarily then cut the tube out with a tubing cutter.

Then replace the spring and reassemble the end of the cable.

This frees up the cable inside the tube, makes the assembly flexible so it doesn't bind.

I have a feeling that maybe this is what you will wind up needing to do.

You can't get the kink out of that tube once it is there. You will need to remove the tube from the assembly or replace the entire assembly with another one.

Take the cable out,Measure the overall length of the cable itself , measure the overall length of the outside sheath . Go to Pegasus Racing's website (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1270). Plug in the measurements and pay them about $80. About two days later you will have a MUCH, MUCH nicer cable that will be so smooth that you won't believe it! Throw the other cable in the trash can to insure that it never finds its way onto a Pantera again! Your (non-broken)gas pedal and right foot will thank you !
These things usually come coiled up in a large ziplock bag and they still operate more freely coiled up than the original one does straight!


Ron

Lokar cut to fit throttle cables work great.

http://www.lokar.com/product-p...owns/tc-kd-main.html

Both good advice BUT it involves taking the car apart to get a new cable in.

Checking to see if there is a kink in the tube and cutting it back all can be done in the car without taking it out.

Pulling it out is definitely high on the PITA list.

The console has to come out, foot box cover, the engine cover removed, engine screen, etc, etc, etc!

Why the tube is in the assembly isn't clear to me. It certainly is not necessary. It definitely is a hindrance to the assembly installation AND it works really light and free without it.

I'll bet you that a very high percentage of these original throttle assemblies judged to need replacing will work just fine without the tube.

It is not a difficult modification to do.

This is an going problem until you realize a couple of additional factors that will lead to a smooth operating cable. the first thing is the bracket that holds the cable should be as close as possible to level with the carb attachment point a little above the point but at half pedal the cable should be level, this will also insure you will get "full throttle". the other important thing is your return spring, it should be attached as close as possible to the carb pull location (like the same hole or right next to it)this will allow the return springs to pull in the opposite direction equally with the pull on the carb , this not only adds to the smooth feel but it
doesn't cause wear on your throttle shaft in
the carb. But I agree check out Lokar for the right cabel.

quote:

Originally posted by Cuvee:
I have a new throttle cable from one of the vendors. It has the return spring built in at the carb end. The damn thing is so stiff I'm afraid I'm going to break the gas pedal! It doesn't seem to be binding anywhere? Has anyone else had this problem? Can the return spring be removed and use a aftermarket return spring? The original worked very easy!

Does anyone have a photo of there car with the Lokar or other Throttle cable installed? One other thing is, I do not have the stock intake. I have a high rise or spider type intake so it's taller.

Has anyone used the Lokar cut to fit version that alasorsa mentioned above?

My OEM style throttle cable that I purchased from a vendor fours years ago has been binding up. I want to try something else but am concerned that the clevis end that Lokar's website shows it coming with will not work with the Pantera's stock gas pedal.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Devin

P.S. I am looking at the stainless steel braided version.

You are correct the clevis pin will not work, you have to buy an additional card end and use that at the pedal. Unscrew the ball from the pedal and screw the one that comes with the linkage, then your good to go.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-s-1034

Here is a link to the 96" version of the cable you need. You might be able to get away with using that length putting the linkage in the stock position. I ran mine to the right hand side of my throttle body so I used the 108" version. measure several times first to make you get enough cable, then cut to fit. I'll post a picture of the pedal linkage later this evening.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...c-1000ht96/overview/

Alasorsa,

Thanks for the fast response and great information. I look foward of the pic of the throttle pedal connection. If you could also snap one of your carb setup I would appreciate it.

Thanks again.

Devin

Yup, that's the part I used. The cables, BTW are great, much better than the original.

Here you go Devin

I'm glad I took this one, just found a coolant leak I'll need to address this weekend.

I also used there cable holder on the throttle body.

The stock Pantera cable is fine if you remove the inner rigid tube on the carb side. Then it won't kink and hang up.

The assembly unbolts. If you have ANY KIND of mechanical ability, you can do it.

If you enjoy spending money needlessly on new parts, then carry just carry on and go aftermarket.

quote:

alasorsa

Like alasorsa I spun my throttle body round 180 degrees to simplify the fuel inlets. After that the stock throttle no longer reaches.
I used a Pegasus racing custom length cable like Ron recommended, very flexible. I also used their sprung loaded ball-joints at the pedal and body ends, very nice.

Looks much cleaner that way, doesn't it.

I was looking at my current OEM style cable last night and it has a spot that is fraying and causing my binding issue.

I went ahead and ordered the Lokar cable, which will be here Saturday. Thanks for all the help, information, and suggestions Alasora and Richard.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Devin