351C Al Head options

Julian,

Its late in the evening, I'll try to give a quick answer & then back to bed for this old mechanic.

Any SB Ford head will bolt to any SB Ford block, because the bolt pattern is the same. But that's were the similarities end.

Whether or not either head is desirable for YOU depends upon your intended goals for your motor. How much power do you want to get out of it, how much money do you want to spend, how much drivability are you willing to sacrifice, how much reliability are you willing to lose, what are ther many ways you plan to use the car?

The notches in your pistons are cut for a canted valve head, a non-canted valve head will require new pistons. The Yates head is a non-canted valve head. Without knowing anything else, it sounds as though the Brodix head is NOT their canted valve head (BF300, BF301) because of the size of the intake valve. It is most likely the ST 5.0 R head.

I know nothing about your current motor, if it is a 30 year old short block, you do not want to base a major reconfiguration of the motor on that short block, as it would be bound to fail on you. Even a simple installation of new or reconditioned heads will likely result in oil burning on an old set of rings with many miles on them.

Any of the high port heads will require different intake manifolding, and all but 1 will require different exhaust manifolding as well, the exception being the Blue Thunder heads with the lower exhaust port configuration (theres 2 different ex ports to choose from).

If the Brodix head is anything other than a BF200 series (Yates) or a BF300 series (Cleveland) it is not a desireable head for your Pantera, unless you intend to build a 100% Windsor motor. The Yates head is a good, high flowing, power making head.

How about answering the questions about your car, the motor, the budget, how you'll use it, etc & we'll go from there.

Perhaps the pictures below will help identify the Brodix head.

Your friend on the DTBB

George,

My intention is to start pulling together the parts (as tiem and budget allows) for a complete stroker (383, 393) build from ground up. I can pick up locally a 4 bolt main Cleveland block that's for sale. Its currently .30 over, but I guess I can have it sleeved. I'm definitely committed to staying with the Cleveland.

My intention is to build up a motor that is still streetable (just ), but I'd like to get into the +500 hp range.

I'm looking to aspirate via webers, probably the 48 IDF's you are so fond of.

The Brodix heads for sale look more like the ST 5.0, so many thanks I'll give them a pass.

Julian

500 bhp is a good goal for a Pantera, considering the capabilities of the transmission and size of the radiator. In this day, it can be reasonably achieved with a stroker motor, without having to resort to high rpm & agressive racing cams (cams that beat the valvetrain to death and require replacement every 5000 to 10,000 miles).

The Yates heads would be a good set of heads for such a motor, IF you are up to having a Weber manifold adapted to the heads, and up to what ever is necessary to fabricate an exhaust system that works. There are alternatives in heads however that will accept more readily available manifolding.

If you are interested in the IDF carbs, you must decide if you want the carbs to stick up above the engine screen or remain nestled below. The readily available Redline manifold will mount the carbs so high they'll protrude above the engine screen. If the answer to that question is below the screen, you should start agressively seeking the Cain manifold from Australia. That is a 2V port size manifold by the way.

Another thing to consider, if you keep the motor looking externally stock, you may have an easier time selling the car at some future date. You can have the 4V heads ported and easily reach 500 bhp, the extra displacement of the stroker motor will wake up the throttle response of those big port heads. It would be very easy to unbolt the Weber carbs and bolt back in the Cobra Jet intake manifold and Autolite carb, and viola, stock motor!

I would not purchase a 0.030" over Cleveland block you think may require boring, unless you can have it sonic checked before you commit to purchasing it. There may not be any room left for boring in the cylinder walls. Any block, 2 bolt or 4 bolt, will work for your application. The Aussie blocks (not the NASCAR blocks, the every day Aussie blocks) seem to be made of a better grade of iron that does not wear in the cylinder walls, you should be able to pick one up that won't require boring, or at the worst case, 0.010" clean up. Phil Newell sells them on e-bay. I have his phone # if you want it. I was lucky enough to find a standard bore, 2 bolt main, US manufactured block for $50 last year. I had to drive to & from San Diego to pick it up (8 hour round trip). The gasoline cost more than the block.

your friend on the DTBB

George,

Thanks once again for your wisdom!

Yes the Aussie blocks list on eBay for about a $ a CU, which is not expensive... decision made that's my option.

My decklid was cut prior to my ownership, to fill what was otherwise an ugly void I'm running a Holley 600 cfm (came with the purchase) on an Offenhauser manifold, 2" spacer and a K&N 4" thick oval filter assembly, so by now you realize rear view mirror vision is already zip. Weber velocity stacks would look a whole lot better in there.

Selling at some future date?....If it wasn't for the fact that I wouldn't want to deprivve some future owner of the pure exceitement and pleasure of a P car, my will would stipulate to bury me in the thing .

Have a great weekend
Julian