351C Oiling problems

The restrictor plugs are really restricorts that insert into the oil passages going vertically from the main bearings to the cam bearing journals, to keep more oil down near the crank.THeres a single extra restrictor that inserts into the oil passage off the rear main and oils the left-side lifters. If you're using hydraulic lifters of any type, leavbe this plug out. Otherwise, oil will be restricyed enough that the 8 left-side lifters will rattle from starvation.

All the stuff you ordered is fine with the possible exception of the Hall pan- I'm unfamiliar with how its internal baffling is arranged. Inside the sump should be a 4-sided box with one-way doors going in, plus a windage tray, crank scrapers etc are normally in such pans. I suggest also checking the oil drain-backs in each end of the cylinder heads. They are both small, and one will be a dog-leg shape internally. They often plug up; a small diameter compression spring about 8" long can be used as a "Roto-Rooter' to positively clear both oil drains. Plugged drains will hold so much oil in the rocker covers that the oil pump starves & oil goies into the breathers & power brake reservoir. The 10-qt pan helps but clearing the drains also helps. An oil cooler will reduce oil temp when running over 140 mph for long periods of time. Otherwise, its un-needed- oil temps stay within 5 degrees F of water temps to about 140 mph in 5th gear. A water-to-oil type such as the boxlike Fluidyne or the tubular Aeroquip is the only one that works in our experience unless you cut big holes in the body to duct air to a huge air-to-oil cooler. And to use the water to oil coolers effectively, you need a better radiator than stock, such as the aluminum Fluidyne unit. The Accusump helps in extreme cornering situations at low speeds, and as a pre-luber before start-up, but I prefer the above fixes.

A good std pump, proper bearing clearances, a 10-qt PROPERLY DESIGNED oil pan (some are simple oil-buckets with a single drag-race baffle), and high quality oil, synthetic if you run very fast very long. A stock Pantera can corner hard enough to slosh oil away from the pump pickup, starving the bearings. The Accusump works in severe low-speed cornering to supplement oil supplied from the pan. They canalso be set up as pre-oiliers to reducecstart-up wear. Autocrossers & amateur racers like them but they do not replace a good big race pan on a Pantera. You have covered the main weak spots, except for the roll pin in the distributor drive gear. The oil pump is actually driven by the distributor gear, and the stock gearotor pump often overloads the pin. Either double-pin the gear, or drill it out & use a steel drill rod as a pin. This includes aftermarket distributors, incidently. Oil coolers in street Panteras are un-needed under about 140mph for more than about 5 minutes at constant speed, or pro roadracing. Air-cooled oil heat exchangers are useless unless one cuts the body to duct lots of air. Fluidyne, Aeroquip and Setrab all make water-to-oil coolers that have been verified to work. But they depend on a really good water radiator, not the stock one. The current favorite in the U.S is an aluminum Fluidyne radiator. With this in place & a water-to-oil cooler, oil temps maintain at around 245-255 while water temps increase to 215-225, at a continuous 160+ mph for 15-30 minutes in 5th gear. An oil company ran tests a while ago, in which not just the oil pan but also the main bearings were instrumented. They found that in the main journals, oil temps were an average of 100 HOTTER than the oil in the sump. Synthetic oil gives another 20-25 degrees F of disaster-protection after all the mechanical components are right. Finally, remember, the stock oil pressure gauge lies. Add a cheap MECHANICAL gauge to a tee fitting on the rear of the block so you can use the stock one also, & verify that your engine gives 65-75 psi, hot, at above 2500 rpms & maybe 25-30 psi at idle.

Many thanks again Jack for your informative and prompt reply as always.
I have taken your advice and gone with the up graded radiator,10 qrt.baffled and windaged trayed sump,plus Accusump 3qrt.system and do the roll pin mod in the Distr.drive as as sugested.
Thanks again,sorry for the late reponse on my part. Cheers, tai.