6476 just the begining

Great job so far
You will really enjoy working with a rotisserie.
I also built one for my Challenger that I will later convert to fit my pantera
Good luck

Yes I had the same idea ... it could be converted to any car really.

Thanks

Ron

HOLY COW RON!!! you weren't kidding around about restoration. You are now my new hero.

now if I can only stop time ..... with work and the summer i have not touched it in 2 weeks. but Pocono got the blood flowing.

R

Gary here it is I found my old post where I left off in MAY ... LOL

he updated pics.

one more

opps ..

i would like to build a rotisserie for my car .does anyone have plans or better pics of how it mounts to car
thanks 6672

Ron is working on the car kinda fun, or is it more stressfull, pukerfactor kinda stuff????

Ron are you going to get some updated photos up today? I want to see how the chemical stripper is working out. I was watching a how too on lead. They said chemical strippers break down the lead and if you chemically strip a leaded area then lead will need to be removed.

quote:

Originally posted by 6672:
i would like to build a rotisserie for my car .does anyone have plans or better pics of how it mounts to car
thanks 6672

Look at the early photos I put in the other thread on 1905. I built mine from scratch.

Detom ... this is therapy and if you look at the dates .. I just started this project up again since last May .. no stress .. when I get time I put in the effort .

Gary .. The chemical stripper works great except for couple things ..you need heavy rubber gloves and ventalation. As far as lead breaking down ... dont think thats 100% correct. Lead properties tell us otherwise. Maybe it contaminates the top thousanth of an inch ...but after stripper the whole car needs to be either sanded or blasted. The If I scrape the lead a shinny surface is revealed. I'm not sure how the etching primer adheres to it ??? That could be questionable ... I stripped surfaces on this car where the etching primer was flaking off.. So we will see .. I'm using chemical stripper to remove heavy layers of paint and bondo. then blast it.

You may be right, I am just repeating what they said.

Heres where I left off until i get more strippers. LOL

no strippers yet ?? LOL

3

EXCELENT! Metal looks good from what you posted, how is the condition of the chassis?

Chassis I had fixed a while ago, floor boards great, the typical little crunches where people jacked the car up wrong ..the front where it was bumped wheen I shipped it to NY and the front had a nose put on it looks like when it was new because its blended with lead .. so I assume it was done close to when it was new.

Oh man!! Rust free bare metal looks so sexy. It is a shame to cover it with paint. Maybe just a clear coat????

quote:

Originally posted by DeTom:
Oh man!! Rust free bare metal looks so sexy. It is a shame to cover it with paint. Maybe just a clear coat????

No way, then everyone would call it a delorean!

Detom have you seen the Kirkham Cobra .. they produce it in Copper ... wildest thing I ever seen and then the polish it ..WOW.


Ron

quote:

Kirkham Cobra

Oh yeah! Check out the look. I like!!!
http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/m/index.php?option=co...view&id=46&Itemid=76

Noticed that your patched rear frame does not have drain holes in the bottom. I recommend drilling 1/2 inch holes at the bottom of each frame section in the rear to let moisture and dirt fall out.

Yes ... that pic is not complete ... I really need to clean it up with a grinder and drill some small weep holes...not that I plan to get water on the car after I'm done ...LOL

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
Yes ... that pic is not complete ... I really need to clean it up with a grinder and drill some small weep holes...not that I plan to get water on the car after I'm done ...LOL

Ron

Ron, since you have your car apart, can you tell if there is a way to squirt stuff inside the frame to prevent it from rusting from the inside??? Is there like holes where you can put one of them undercoating wands in and spray around? Most folks don't realize that just humidity in the air will rust areas that water never can get to. I figure if there is a way to spray gooey inside once everything is all clean and rust free, it may just last forever.

Detom ... it appears that yes there are small black plugs on most areas where behind the plugs are empty areas. My personal opinion is that like FORD ... the red oxide primer is the best for that application along with the NEW RUST paints like Gary is applying to his underside of his car... shooting it inside the frame rails would also be a good idea .. rubber or tar undercoating holds in the moisture and only causes rust to start underneath.

Ok I made it back to the AUTOPARTS store for 2 more gallons and this long weekend with our mild NY weather is perfect to continue STRIPPING.
Ron

Ron

Thanks Ron.

It's perfectly ok to drill a few holes in strategic places to insert the wand used to apply the paint inside the braces, esp in the long ones near the top of the rear inner wheel wells. (Eastwood sells these and there are ones made by 3M you can get at your local auto paint store. They are 30 inch flexible wands with nozzles on the end that attach to a gun.) Probably a good idea to put rubber caps over the holes when you're done.

I was especialy thinking about the rocker panels down where the door sill is. Those are welded shut and are not easy to get too, so if you have your car all torn down like that, it would be a good idea to coat them in paint on the insides. I don't ever want to have to do this again.

Detom I found the pic of the Copper Cobra .. check it out.

Ron

Ok here she is after chemical stripping .. rough but I saved a lot of hours of blasting .. we have 50 hours, 4 gloons of stripper and 6 layers of paint removed.

and one more

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
Detom I found the pic of the Copper Cobra .. check it out.

Ron

Would that be legal for driving? That would blind other drivers. THey would all like crash everywhere as you drove down the road.

Ron how is the rust and the structure looking?

Gary

Actually the car looks better then I thought .. the only hard work is going to be re doing the tops of the fenders where they spliced them in. the rest is going to be custom.

Ron

Detom ..its definately legal ..not sure if the glare or the heads turning and causing accidents .. hwich one would be worse.. in the cobra community this is the new trend ... some rubbing compund and elbow grease and waaa la a shinny silver car. My car is an aluminum body cobra # 1234 but I would never remove that Britich racing green for nothing.

Ron

I gotta admitt, it looks way cool but I wouldn't want my car done that way. Can you imagine how easily it would show dirt?? One drive and you would have to polish it again. Too much work for an old lazy guy like me.

Couple updated pics ... the metal work is in progress.