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quote:

Originally posted by Al SPODEN:

...thinking I could just ground negative coil side to battery ground to get fire...will this work? ...



Nice choice of words. You will indeed get FIRE! Grounding the negative will turn the coil into an 8 amp electric heater ... or make it glow like an 8 amp night light ... until it catches fire. Eeker

Grounding the negative is not advised. Smiler

You need these connections:

(1) The red wire (actually pink I believe) from the car's wiring harness wired directly to the coil positive. This is battery power to the coil.

(2) The Blue wire with black stripe from the car's wiring harness wired directly to the coil negative. This is the wire going to the tachometer.

(3) A new wire providing battery power to the electronic ignition. Perhaps connected to the coil positive, sharing the power provided by the pink wire.

(4) A new wire from the electronic ignition to the coil negative, triggering the coil to fire.

(5) A new wire from the electronic ignition to ground. If the ignition (distributor) is grounded by its contact with the engine block, then this wire isn't necessary.

Good luck!
quote:
Originally posted by Al SPODEN:
I am working on a 71 Pantera,this car is new to me, and my problem is irregular spark, this is whats happening: car has been sitting for a number of years for starters, I have a new carb, installed and electronic distributor, new solenoid. used, but good, 825 cca battery. I have gotten the car to fire and run on what sounds like all 8 cyl. but it will only run 15 to 20 seconds then it dies, I installed a spark tester, where I can monitor the spark, after a 10 or 15 min. wait I can restart with strong spark, it runs 15 to 20 seconds then it dies, what I have noticed is when it dies its because it has no spark, if I try to start it immediately it has no spark, but after waiting 10 to 15 min. it will start but do the short run thing...I am lost on this.One other item of note is the carb has an electric choke that I have wired in at the power panel , but not at the coil, I used a key on 12v. supply, can I use power from the oil pressure sending unit? Any help is appreciated


1st i have to ask why you decided to change out the ignition system, did this same problem exist before the new dizzy, coil & wires?
4V and Proud...I removed the old system because : 1st it was not the original, the previous owner had installed a Mallory dual point and then somehow fried it, the points were burned together and the condenser was also bad, add to that the cap was cracked and the rotor burnt, so I decided to take the opportunity to upgrade to a HEI system. When the car was purchased it did not run or even crank, a new solenoid got it to turn over, I have replaced the entire cooling system, tubes, radiator, hoses,correct thermostat, new timing gears and chain,water pump, master cylinder, brake hoses, clutch cylinder and master....so then I started this issue with the ignition.
so it's safe to assume there may be a possibility of some kind of damage in the harness, whether it's heat related from leaving the ignition On forever with points or some mis-step by a previous owner attempting a repair or upgrade

your description of the 'time out' after the new ignition system shuts down sounds like a circuit breaker resetting?

i'm not familiar with the 1971 Pantera wiring plan but i'll bet George and hopefully several others here can pick your brain & guide you through figuring it out, try not to take prying questions personal there's no other way to get through it Smiler

have you tried a direct hot wire from the battery to the coil + ? an aftermarket EFI should run full charging voltage, most of them are GM style modules

yeah i noticed you're not very far from here too, is your roof skydiver rated?

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