71 pushbutton

If you've 'gone thru the motor' following Pat Ganahl's book and some of the more reasonable advice on the Web, that's likely as good as it will get or need unless you intend to compete with the thing. I'm assuming that, like 95% of the Panteras out there, it has a Holley 4bbl and a few other mods? Because if it still has that invention-of-the-devil stock Autolite/Motorcraft 4bbl, do yourself a favor and put it in a box on a high shelf. There are a few (darn few!) Autolites that run but far more do not and no one- even pros- seem to know the tricks to make them work decently. Rebuild kits are rare as well.

You're correct- you will likely never recoup any significant engine mod expense, since with today's prices for labor & gaskets, it costs roughly the same to rebuild a Pinto 4cyl as it does a V-8. As-stock, the Cleveland put out about 275 real horses and it's not much of a stretch to get 450 bhp with almost imperceptible mods, for around $8000 or so.... Far more fun to drive fast when combined with a brake and tire upgrade, too.

There are a few Duck owners in the Club- my oldest son in Napa has a modded '87 Paso and one guy in the SF Bay area always has the latest go-fa$t model. Whats yours?

I am proud to say I still have the Autolite 4300 carb. It's fine, but does seep a little around the top and bottom half's.

Wonder what the going price is on that "bone stock" push button? I betcha it's yellow?

Hi, thanks for the posts. Indeed, the Autolite seats atop a shelf with the air filter box in the "historical interest" section. It has a holley in place, the 351 being a quench high comp original unit. Indeed, it is yellow and according to the numbers per RS corse in Modena "giallo fly" with still original paint. It is astonishingly a no rust car. I bought it from Arizona, one owner in 40 years. The car on removal of the dash had no less than 2 antitheft devices and an oreo cookie baked dash and steering column cowl. A royal pain to source parts.

As far as the Ducatis, i have a 73 yellow sport, a 77 900 Ss desmo AMA original racer and a 450 single racer. Sorry I couldn't come up with anything better.

quote:

Originally posted by Ducatista:

Looking for a reputable firm to blueprint my engine on my 71 Pushbutton 351C ... if someone has pointers for a good shop in the midwest for these engines, let me know ...

Kuntz and Company in Arkadelphia, Arkansas

Kuntz and Company

By the way, there's a sticky in Alejandro's Neighborhood Pub regarding posting pictures.

-G

quote:

Originally posted by Ducatista:

Looking for a reputable firm to blueprint my engine on my 71 Pushbutton 351C ... if someone has pointers for a good shop in the midwest for these engines, let me know ...

Kuntz and Company in Arkadelphia, Arkansas. Jim Kuntz will not try to sell you stuff you don't need.

Kuntz and Company

I removed the original "huge" picture you tried posting (it was 3264 pixels x 2448 pixels). It wasn't opening up anyway. There's a sticky in Alejandro's Neighborhood Pub regarding posting pictures.

-G

Thank you kindly for the information George. Sorry for my clumsy postings, just learning how to use the site. Thanks also for the info on the engine shop. I will look up the sticky prior to load up any pictures.

I used Kuntz and Company after George recommended them to me for my engine build. I had spoken to quite a few engine shops and I got some mixed information from them. Jim is not a 'web - Facebook - IM ' type of guy but he did provide a very detailed build sheet and multiple dyno run sheets. I even got some pictures and a video.
He gave me a price to build my engine which he did not add any extra money onto, even though I asked him to do some extra dyno runs with my Pantera headers, original carb and a FI system I want to use. The price was plus parts which were in most cases cheaper than I could have got them. I shipped my engine to and from him using their Fedex cost price, no mark up, no cost to package up engine that he sent back to me.
I sent him my original 351c 2 bolt block with a set of 4 bolt caps for him to fit. He said for what I intended to use the engine for and my hp, they were not needed and kept with the ARP studs. Many other builders had stated all sorts of girdles etc, at a big uplift and were not really necessary. He installed cam follower bushings which he mentioned in our first call, that earned him a big tick from me for that. He called me a couple of times to go over my requirements etc and I am very happy with the way it has all turned out.
I ended up with a 393c, Scott Cook alloy heads and dual plane intake, zero balance, 626hp / 556ftlb, mechanical roller cam, monster. I am in the process of getting everything connected up and I can't wait till the rain and snow stops.

Thanks for the reply and info on Kunz,it helps a ton and avoids unnecessary surprises. A couple of questions if I may:
How did you crate the engine?
Is there any pre made crates that could make it easier and how would I arrange the shipping to and from the facility short of bringing it down my self from Indiana? Pardon the ignorance but this is my first tear down, last time I drove the car to the factory and rented a car to go home.
Also, is it better to uprate or keep stock on blueprinting? My engine has the quench version of the '71 C with high comp ratio. Did not dyno thus far nor am I seeking a brutish performance. I have been maniacally trying to keep the car original other than for the necessary cooling upgrade and carb.
Thanks again for the info. Oreste.

In my instance I had dismantled the engine and sent him the block and a mass of parts. I used a wooden pallet and strapped the block to it. I then boxed everything else up and strapped that to the pallet also. I sealed everything with a plastic sheet.
I previously had arranged with Larry at Kuntz, and I took the pallet to a Fedex freight depot. I used their account and it cost $390 from MA to AR, which I thought was pretty good, it weighed 550 lbs. The completed engine, cost $600 at 700lbs, not quite so good. I did ship quite a few parts that were not necessary, that would have saved on the shipping cost both ways.
They really packaged the engine well. The assembled engine was bolted to an engine stand and then bolted to a wooden pallet. They used 2x4's to make a frame around the engine and then screwed plywood to the crate and frame which also had plywood on the top. It was also wrapped in plastic. The other parts, flywheel, flywheel, etc were packaged inside. I collected it from the same Fedex depot and paid freight collect.

To comment on whether to update or keep original, I think that has to be your choice and your budget. Is the rest of the car stock? Will you changing water pump or intake manifolds, changing headers, 10 quart sump, etc. You can build a nice strong engine keeping it still a 351c, have a read of the stickies in this forum, good information there. Beware though, upgrading one piece might cause the next weakest to fail and that gets into a vicious / expensive loop.